Brandon Franks Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Hello, Through the years, as I have gotten more comfortable with my kiln, clay, and store bought glazes, I have started making my own glazes, many through Glazy.org and John Britt's Cone 6 book. Now, I am looking to have new firing schedules. I fire to cone 6, and am mostly interested in John Britt's E3 and E4 schedule. Does anyone have any experience with one (our both) of these schedules. My new glazes, which I have just made should all work well in both of these. I have two (sort of) temmokus, a floating blue, a light pink, blue, and a grey. I will attach the recipes for all the glazes, but really am interested in how they will react in a new schedule. (I have a Bailey kiln, with 7 firings logged on her, so my elements are pretty much perfect to try something new) I am a little frightened to try, some input would be greatly appreciated. Glaze recipes- (if it helps) Temmoku Gold-https://glazy.org/recipes/18336 (I want this one, especially, to have many crystals, mostly the reason I'm looking into a new schedule) Faux Temmoku-https://glazy.org/recipes/6902 June Perry Pink-https://glazy.org/recipes/27852 Floating Blue-https://glazy.org/recipes/10684 Stronium Blue-https://glazy.org/recipes/2445 Grey-https://glazy.org/recipes/25995 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 What are the E3 and E4 schedules? I don't have my book handy. A brief description would be fine (fast fire, slow cool, etc) A slow cool will grow microcrystals in an iron saturate The Strontium blue one has its own hold on the cool down, so you will have to test with e3 and E4 to see if they'll work in matting it. June perry pink doesn't matter, I have seen no difference between a slow and natural cool Floating blues you may run into issues, mostly because they're already finnicky as it is, I wouldn't bank too much on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Franks Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 6 minutes ago, liambesaw said: What are the E3 and E4 schedules? I don't have my book handy. A brief description would be fine (fast fire, slow cool, etc) Totally forgot to include them... (all of these are in ^f, I'm too lazy to take the time to write ^f after every one...) *Seg #- Temp^f/Hour - Temp to* E3- (Fast cycle with slow cool) Seg 1- 150/H - 220 Seg 2- 500/H - 1978 Seg 3- 150/H - 2225 Seg 4- 999/H - 1900 Seg 5- 100/H - 1400 E4- (Slow cycle with very slow cool) Seg 1- 150/H - 220 Seg 2- 400/H - 1978 Seg 3- 100/H - 2210 -- Hold 10 min Seg 4- 999/H - 2050 Seg 5- 50/H - 1400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I updated my original post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Franks Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Just now, liambesaw said: I updated my original post Should I just stick to a slow fire with natural cool then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Well first off, you should test every glaze you mix with a slow cool and a natural cool so you know how they'll react. But if crystallization is what you want, a slow cool is what you should try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Franks Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 5 minutes ago, liambesaw said: Well first off, you should test every glaze you mix with a slow cool and a natural cool so you know how they'll react. But if crystallization is what you want, a slow cool is what you should try. What do you think would happen if I did the E4 (slow fire) with the E3 faster cool. Also, if I do a slow cool with my floating blue, I would be risking making it matte, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 3 minutes ago, Brandon Franks said: What do you think would happen if I did the E4 (slow fire) with the E3 faster cool. Also, if I do a slow cool with my floating blue, I would be risking making it matte, right? From what I've seen the ramp up (slow vs. fast fire) isn't as important to the looks as the ramp down (slow vs. natural cooling) I don't see anything in the floating blue that would cause it to go matte during cooling but I could be wrong. Also be aware that it will not look like Joe's picture there, that is a combination of 3 glazes I'm pretty sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Franks Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 39 minutes ago, liambesaw said: From what I've seen the ramp up (slow vs. fast fire) isn't as important to the looks as the ramp down (slow vs. natural cooling) I don't see anything in the floating blue that would cause it to go matte during cooling but I could be wrong. Also be aware that it will not look like Joe's picture there, that is a combination of 3 glazes I'm pretty sure. I plan on using Selsor Chun under the floating blue. That combo is like incredible. Now, just wondering, you mentioned that I could have trouble(s) with the floating blue, what would they be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I tried that recipe a few times and it was different every time. Sometimes brown, sometimes cloudy, once was blue, was too erratic for me to continue experimenting with since I could achieve the same effect with stable glazes. I haven't tried it since upgrading to a digital controller, but I have other glazes I'm dialing in right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Franks Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 Just now, liambesaw said: I tried that recipe a few times and it was different every time. Sometimes brown, sometimes cloudy, once was blue, was too erratic for me to continue experimenting with since I could achieve the same effect with stable glazes. I haven't tried it since upgrading to a digital controller, but I have other glazes I'm dialing in right now. Okay. good to know. This is the first Floating blue I am trying, I will look into other ones if I get similar results as you're describing. Do you have any recommendations for stable floating blues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liambesaw Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 I don't, sorry. I like the look of crystallized glazes so my blues are more subtle. Some examples: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Franks Posted June 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 1 hour ago, liambesaw said: I don't, sorry. I like the look of crystallized glazes so my blues are more subtle. Some examples: I love those, aren't my style though. Thanks for all the help, I'm going to try the E3 schedule for now, I will let you know on Saturday how the pots came out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 20, 2019 Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 50F/hr is really slow for a cooling cycle. You'll see a difference with a lot of glazes at 150/hr cooling rate. I'd start with a faster cooling rate and slow it down from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFP Posted June 22, 2019 Report Share Posted June 22, 2019 How slow? In hours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFP Posted June 22, 2019 Report Share Posted June 22, 2019 Sorry...didn't see your post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Franks Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 On 6/19/2019 at 8:28 PM, neilestrick said: 50F/hr is really slow for a cooling cycle. You'll see a difference with a lot of glazes at 150/hr cooling rate. I'd start with a faster cooling rate and slow it down from there. I did the E3 schedule with 100/Hour to 1400. I notice crystal growth on the bottom of my blue glazes, but other then those everything came out fine. Im planning on doing a regular firing without a controlled cool to see the differences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 1 hour ago, Brandon Franks said: I did the E3 schedule with 100/Hour to 1400. I notice crystal growth on the bottom of my blue glazes, but other then those everything came out fine. Im planning on doing a regular firing without a controlled cool to see the differences. A lot of glazes won't respond to slow cooling at all, but it's worth testing everything to see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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