nartist Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 I'm working on a low fire project with black glaze and would like to add details with other colors - on top of the low fire glaze. these details are representational -- no running... Is there a way to glaze the whole thing black with lowfire glazes and then add the colored details on top of the black glaze. Not sure if overglazes would do this - but dont want to buy overglazes. Can i do this with slip or stains. I have added stains with a clear glaze on top of other glazes - but i think the black glaze as a layer wont work... Any thoughts?????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nartist Posted February 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 One way to do this is to glaze with black lo-fire and then add details with acrylics - but i dont wannna would like it to be fully fired/can last, etc.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoozie Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 You are basically talking about a majolica technique; painting on top of another unfired non-moving glaze. The first step to success is to make sure your black glaze does not move; it will usually be a satin or matte black like Duncan Satin Glaze SN366 Black or Duncan Designer Glazes DG203 Carbon Chiffon. Since it is very difficult to get color on top of black, you'll want to use a very opaque product to paint your design on. I have done this with low fire ceramics before and used a combination of Duncan French Dimensions combined with a Duncan Concept color. Mix about half and half or proportions to get a brushable consistency. The French Dimensions are a stand up lining glaze that is opaque and comes in a squeeze bottle. By adding Duncan Concepts to it, you can achieve a brushable product with enough opacity to cover black. You may need two coats. Definitely run some test tiles to determine what is best for the look and colors you want to achieve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trina Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 You are basically talking about a majolica technique; painting on top of another unfired non-moving glaze. The first step to success is to make sure your black glaze does not move; it will usually be a satin or matte black like Duncan Satin Glaze SN366 Black or Duncan Designer Glazes DG203 Carbon Chiffon. Since it is very difficult to get color on top of black, you'll want to use a very opaque product to paint your design on. I have done this with low fire ceramics before and used a combination of Duncan French Dimensions combined with a Duncan Concept color. Mix about half and half or proportions to get a brushable consistency. The French Dimensions are a stand up lining glaze that is opaque and comes in a squeeze bottle. By adding Duncan Concepts to it, you can achieve a brushable product with enough opacity to cover black. You may need two coats. Definitely run some test tiles to determine what is best for the look and colors you want to achieve. My words exactly! trina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana Ferreira Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 if that does not work, what about decals? you could buy full sheets of a colour block. just cut or tear it and apply. I know that most colours will show up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nartist Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 thanx - this is a good idea. is there a basic test that i can run on a small test tile - that tells me immediately if my glaze runs. My thought is: brush on glaze; mark with a tic where glaze ends; place verticallly and check results. is there another way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoozie Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I would add a detail line with the product you plan to use on top of the glaze in the center of the glazed area. Sometimes glazes move within themselves without venturing onto unglazed bisque. That movement would make your line fuzzy or spread. But, of course what is acceptable will be up to you. If you're thinking of decals, they can go on most glazes regardless of movement because the decal is fired at a lower temperature, cone 016 to 015, that softens the glaze but doesn't allow it to flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelS Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 why not use black clay? Fire it up to maturity then glaze how ever you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudslayer Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 I would LOVE to use some black clay, can you tell me where to get it. I think the name of if is Cassius? I have heard some great things about it, but no specs. Grog or grit? Firing range, shrink rate. I know it is a messy clay, but so is red earthenware, and some say that it stains your hands and it won't come off...any comments on that? (if this is not in a good section of the forum, please move it to the correct place.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 I would LOVE to use some black clay, can you tell me where to get it. I think the name of if is Cassius? I have heard some great things about it, but no specs. Grog or grit? Firing range, shrink rate. I know it is a messy clay, but so is red earthenware, and some say that it stains your hands and it won't come off...any comments on that? (if this is not in a good section of the forum, please move it to the correct place.) http://shop.clay-planet.com/612-midfire-clay---cone-5-6.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laura A Strike Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Majorlica works well on black. Make sure you find a black that works well and make sure you enough coats of color or the black bleeds through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossyrock Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Another good black clay is Black Raven. Stroke 'n Coat glazes work well on it. http://www.stonemountainclay.com/333_Black_Raven_Stnwr.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nartist Posted March 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 i think black clay isnt a possibility for now - due to budget, availablilty w/out shipping, etc. This is for youth student classes... (we are still dramatically hit by the economy here in florida) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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