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Wet Look Slip/glaze Post Firing


MayfieldPots

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Dear All,

 

First post here! I am looking at the gutai group for a project and trying to achieve a post firing wet look to the slip I am using. I would happily use a glaze if I could get it thick enough to carve my fingers through it and have it maintain its shape during the firing.  

 

I am pleased with as it looks at the moment and don't want to lose the 'wetness' post firing. Any clues would be enormously beneficial!!

 

thanks for any help. :) post-74474-0-00427700-1453810445_thumb.jpg

post-74474-0-00427700-1453810445_thumb.jpg

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Welcome to the forums.

 

I would suggest using a thick slip, to create the actual texture.  Then, once fired, apply a clear glaze, over the spots you want to appear wet.  

 

A glaze applied thick enough to create that texture, would run all over the place, when fired.

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A very very thin layer of clear would do the trick.

 

Applying glaze and then scrapping it off with a rubber tool (the yellow mud rib being my favorite) gives a shine without a high-gloss finish. Enough glaze gets deposited into the clay that removing it (without water) is effective at creating a very thin embedded layer of shine. If the background stays completely dry, it will have a wet appearance.

 

If the hand is part of the piece, using a burnished Terra sigillata give a skin like shine.

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Thank you so much for the information! very useful indeed. I will try out some tests and post some results. I have some experiments with various additions to the slip waiting to fire but I will also try the transparent glaze idea. my only concern is where I have thin smears of clay which will be trickier to glaze and keep the look convincing. Love the terra sig' idea for the hands! thanks again. :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

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This video may be of interest.

 

 

PS I keep wondering if it would be possible to make a self-glazing slip,

very vaguely in the spirit of Parian. It would greatly simplify getting the

sheen in all the right places and none of the wrong ones.

 

Does anybody have any experience/ideas?

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great video Peter! I have created a series of tests on bisqued test tiles to see if I can achieve a sheen at 1080. I am aware that these may very well crack as they shrink and dry by as initial information they will hopefully be useful. I am using an earthenware deflocculated casting slip with various additions ( should be able to see on each test).  I have added a 1080 transparent glaze to two tests in different proportions, extra soda ash to the other two and magnesium carbonate to the 3rd set. I will let you all know what happens (if anyone is interested).

 

thanks again!

post-74474-0-15991100-1453903666_thumb.jpg

post-74474-0-15991100-1453903666_thumb.jpg

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This video may be of interest.

 

 

PS I keep wondering if it would be possible to make a self-glazing slip,

very vaguely in the spirit of Parian. It would greatly simplify getting the

sheen in all the right places and none of the wrong ones.

 

Does anybody have any experience/ideas?

 

Lots of slips melt into glaze, if that's what you're asking.  Albany slip is the classic example, but anyone who single glazes over leather hard ware is probably using a slip-like glaze, unless they are spraying it.

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Here are the 3 results. I am happiest most with the magnesium carbonate as the thin smears still have a sheen to them (sorry about the quality of the photos) the soda ash is very dry where it gets thin and the addition of tin glaze into the slip doesn't provide much shine. I'll now try the slip on wet test tiles to see if the 'halo' can be eliminated.

 

thanks again for all the advice!

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post-74474-0-81158600-1453975343_thumb.jpg

post-74474-0-06292400-1453975354_thumb.jpg

post-74474-0-72435600-1453975410_thumb.jpg

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