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Bill Kielb

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Everything posted by Bill Kielb

  1. Interesting observation, sodium almost non existent in original recipes. What are your limits on silica and alumina, Just curious. Flux ratios improved for sure in these.
  2. Stop crazing: Traditional way for gloss glaze is to increase Silica by 1.25 :1 clay so a progression of 1.25 sio: 1 clay 2.5 sio: 2 clay 3.75 sio: 3 clay and so on until crazing disappears. Don’t really like any of those glaze formulas actually all have R2O:RO in non durable range (R20 less than 2.0 can create issues). I don’t like to be less than 0.2:0.8 and gerstley not needed at cone 10. I am not a fan of calculated COE as well as the final melt will usually not be the calculated. something you can try that has decent chemistry: neph sy 28.99 silica 23.19 EPK 21.74 wollastonite 26.09 Flux ratio 0.23:0.77 Alumina = 0.51 Good flux, wollastonite, should fire stiff and not run and can be tuned as above until crazing stops if necessary. I wish you were looking for cone 6, have used a matte and high gloss on all my low expansion porcelain for quite some time so I have those perfected. 4,3,2,1 old standby pasted below from Glazy as well, again use crazing adjustment above as necessary
  3. I mostly agree and still feel it is a compliment of sorts. In my view though I see them as choosing to truly not understand ....... whether wittingly or not. I believe it is most often a feel good choice for them to compliment in this fashion in most but not necessarily all cases. That is likely when the compliment appears to be perceived as a bit backhanded or dismissive of the effort,
  4. Generally some old kilns had dual function as Stat to maintain a certain temperature within a set dead-band and an option to use it as a high limit which just terminates operation when exceeded.
  5. I like the paddle verses the slide for pure construction work and longevity as long as it’s attached to a good switch. There is a 2019 angle grinder review on you tube and if you favor some laughs, my favorite you tube reviewer would be AvE. YouTube search AvE and angle grinder reviews. If you can tolerate the presentation he will definitely deconstruct each fully and you are guaranteed to learn a whole bunch you never knew.
  6. Your so incite-full .........................um insightful that is.
  7. Tiny things ring high pitched, Maybe they are not fully baked?
  8. There is a fire down protocol that is far more successful with pin holes so I am familiar with your research.. Soaking at the top, not so much success for several technical reasons even though it seems intuitive.. Your cone six glazes should work well once you find compatible ones. The Glazy link is good here, double checked but you can search recipe 19734 and that should do it. just curious, do you fire with witness cones to verify?
  9. Since your kiln has been cooling this way for some time and I assume you have not had pin hole issues I would say likely no. How long have you been holding at the top temp for thirty minutes ( often exasperates pin hole problems), do you use cones and if yes what final cone do you fire to? better yet, what has changed in your firing, glazes, claybody, bisque schedule since the pin holes? glazy link below, but use the spreadsheet recipe if going over heavy underglaze. https://glazy.org/recipes/19734
  10. Oops, thanks, yes cone 6. Good catch, I will change it. Lots of work getting all that changed there and resized for here!
  11. Your kiln cools the speed it does because of its thermal properties. Unless you acquired some holes, it likely has cooled this speed all along. Thermal mass also affects its rate so bigger kilns can cool slower due to more stored heat. True matte glazes are always matte, even over fired they are runny mattes. Getting a matte look by slow cool usually requires firing down and generally affects crystal growth in some, not all glazes. Many people enjoy tuning the look of their glazes this way so it often requires a controller that can fire down or a bit of hand firing work in the case of a manual kiln. there are many matte recipes on Glazy, if true matte they will be matte regardless of cool down. I have attached two true matte recipes below. I know they are matte because they were built with less than 5:1 silica to alumina ratio and we have used them in our test kiln which cools super fast for over a year now. The second recipe is a slight modification of the first (more boron) to make it work better over heavy underglazes and a slightly more satin look. finally holding at the top of your firing even though intuitive often does not cure pinholes and can lead to over firing. Assuming you use cones, what are you firing to? I left out one answer, our little test kiln will go to cone 6 in five hours and cool to room temperature for a total of twenty hours.
  12. Yep, 120v valve.. he needs to post a picture or two, really sounds like an open neutral or measuring through feedback path by his description.
  13. I enjoy the learning process and the personal challenge. It’s hard to celebrate true achievement without failure . Many folks are uncomfortable with failure. My informed optimism curve is much smoother without huge changes in direction. Trial and error is a valuable test method for me, not just an indication of failure. When I taught I tried to convey the enjoyment process of learning.. The ability to recognize the slight movement forward often drove people in a more positive way to learn more of many things. When athletes practice they often practice without specific purpose, just overall result. Some become great in this way because they do possess some essential talents required. When elite athletes practice though, they refine and pay specific attention to detail and master the task hopefully to maximize the level of talent they possess. Truth is, most people practice in a very general fashion toward result instead of the specifics that allows them to observe their own performance in real time and real precision. Masters of task practice specifics or sub tasks to near perfection on the way to their near perfect outcome. The “you are talented “ comment I take as a compliment but attribute it to often folks being predisposed to excusing themselves from the effort part or fully appreciating the effort without detracting from themselves. I see this with art as well as engineering as well as computer programming and just about anything in life that takes effort. After all talented people achieve things with little effort, right? Go do clay cause you enjoy it, but also celebrate your progress and how much more you know.
  14. I’m good with your perspective but see most of it as to what personal level I can achieve learning it. The clay in my hand took an unimaginable amount of time for the materials to form (Geology) and may very well be the result of chance and the universe so for me, no competing with that even with my finest work. For me it’s a question of how much can I learn and master reasonably well. The learning part is what I actually enjoy, the mastery part is just comparative and can be based on others standards as well as my own. Hopefully my standards exceed average expectations.
  15. That model Baso is made for 120v gas valve service, so likely he has 120v gas valve. Pictures would definitely help
  16. Maybe a generalization would help - common 04 bisque schedules run 10 to 12 hours and glaze fire say 5 to 8 hours. Armed with that knowledge you can begin turning knobs and trying to hit near the hour total then refine your technique based on results and firing time till you get the look you like. As you decrease the total glaze firing time for instance you may get a result you are not pleased with so now you know, too fast for your desired result. bisque firing needs temperature and time to burn out all the organics. Various clays may require more or less time but a common safe bisque timeframe ends up 10-12 hours.
  17. Don’t have any pictures but I generally weld a bracket in place or make a tripod stand to the right height, cut a small piece of angle, face it upward as a V notch ......... and mount the burner to it securely using two stainless steel pipe clamps. The burner sits in the V notch of the angle. . It may require a shim or two (steel) as the burners generally taper along their length. I like them to be sturdy, stable and easily removable and use two clamps along several inches of angle as a support. The shims also allow me to level the burner or pitch it ever so slightly to hit my target as needed. Done a bunch of these but no pictures.
  18. Since this is a series circuit safety I would love to see a diagram or pictures to understand what you are measuring and when more fully. An initial read of your measurements indicates you do not have a neutral at some point or you are measuring through a feedback path. Hard to read the text and see the picture. Sorry. I have attached a typical configuration below (Ignore the thermostat) if you can clarify. A picture or two would help.
  19. Need to see a picture of your burner for pilot safety and pilot transfer path and pilot size. Then the usual check of too much primary air and or low gas pressure on startup can be considered. I suspect you have worked around diagnosing using your torch though.
  20. This looks nice! Direct substitution with no change however also looks good as well with a slightly better flux ratio. I think the Kingsman will be easy to use up and G200 is pretty darn close when it is gone. Of course testing to confirm performance with a clay body is always a necessity. Good stuff!
  21. You are welcome, I have sent the spreadsheet. If it helps ........ send me a couple of your old recipes or some you like from Glazy that use g200 if possible and I will put them in the spreadsheet ( which is a glaze calculator) as an example for you. You may or may not end up interested in glazes. It’s not for everyone but there are many that become inspired and proficient at it and enjoy. Regardless, the basics are simple and most often can help the average potter save hours of exasperation. its time for me to do a better video anyway, so I would use your solutions as a basis for the video. They would be published on our you tube channel with your permission should you send recipes not in the public domain. We would include in the video a couple conversions to cone six as well.
  22. This might help. If you look at the comparison below Kingsman is similar to G200 (both potassium feldspars). It has nearly the same silica to alumina ratio is slightly higher in sodium, slightly lower in potassium and slightly lower in calcium. I’ll dismiss iron because they are nearly identical and as natural products this likely varies somewhat. The idea - look up G200 glazes on Glazy, substitute Kingsman and tweak your results if necessary. The other idea is I forward the spreadsheet to you (private message), it is free and now contains kingsman and you can fashion your own glazes. The backstory on the spreadsheet is it was created by Matt Katz (formerly of Alfred university) , it is free on his website (ceramic materials workshop). We added some research and minor programming to it and received his permission to redistribute. We use it in our basic glaze formulation videos and it is a bare bones worksheet that depends on stull (1910) which was rediscovered by the pottery community within the last say ten or so years. Stull is pretty easy to learn and indicates trends in glazes plus easy to understand boron addition to move the cone ten glazes down to cone 6. let me know, I can send you the sheet with Kingsman in it and a link or two to some simple videos Just an idea though if it helps.
  23. I think for Silica you could look at under a microscope(cheap one) and see the quartz particles relatively uniform in size to give you some confidence. Maybe even cell phone magnifier, need to try later today.
  24. So talc - feel, look and magnesium reagent only, dolomite - strong calcium and strong magnesium reagent (both react), whiting only calcium reagent, Bone ash - likely calcium reagent and volume mass. Sounds like you have it mostly figured.
  25. Last add: Cone ten is a thing because the earth melts at cone ten. Cone six is a thing because ...... nobody seems to know exactly, maybe one of the wars or energy but to get cone ten stuff to melt at cone six, boron is an easy to use glass former that helps everything melt. Under UMF (unity molecular formula, circa 1910) 0.15 Boron gets you cone six, 0.42 Boron gets you cone 04. Cone 04, no idea why that is a thing either! Many cone 6 and 04 glazes are simply cone ten with the proper amount of Boron added. Gerstley is mined, gillespie is produced. Many newer glaze recipes use Boron frit instead. Frits are manufactured materials, not directly mined and generally produce very consistent results but often less variegation than gerstley.
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