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Fred Sweet

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Everything posted by Fred Sweet

  1. Fred Sweet

    Glazing on already glazed tiles

    Dutch- do a member search on Paul Lewing here in the forum. He is the author of China Paint and Overglazes, available at: https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/shop/the-paul-lewing-china-painting-collection/ You can also PM him from the forum. Regards, Fred
  2. Shouldn’t have any difference if you didn’t have other effects (i.e. metals or combustibles attached or in proximity).
  3. hantremmer- Even if it was a pot to be bisque fired, the person who did the stamping should be informed that their choice of stamp ink contains metallic oxide(s), assuming it was stamped prior to firing the piece. If it was stamped after the firing, and the ink contains no metal oxide(s), it may burn off in another firing. Try having it re-fired. After all, what do you have to lose? Regards, Fred
  4. Do you have the manual for your kiln? The link below is for the manual Duncan kilns (includes yours) from the Paragon kiln company, who were providing parts and service after Duncan was disbanded. https://www.paragonweb.com/files/manuals/LX_914_Duncan_Kiln_Owners_Manual.pdf Regards, Fred
  5. Fred Sweet

    Calcining Cobalt Carbonate

    Soren- Most body colors will develop their true intensity with the addition of a clear glaze. To get an idea of how it will look prior to glazing and firing the work put a drop of water on the surface. While it won’t be highly accurate, you will get an understanding of just how the glaze will influence the color development. Regards, Fred
  6. Fred Sweet

    Calcining Cobalt Carbonate

    Soren- Check Chris Campbell’s website: http://www.ccpottery.com/coloredclaylessons.html This is her colored clay tutorial/class page. You might find your answers there. She is often approachable via email, depending on her schedule. She is also a member of this forum and has a gallery here. Go to the main page and do a search on her name. Regards, Fred
  7. Fred Sweet

    Corn syrup

    Andrea- Use Karo syrup or any other cheap syrup. Regards, Fred
  8. Fred Sweet

    Lightweight Shelves

    LeeU- Am wondering if you meant “Corelite” shelves made by Cedar Heights instead of the “Cordierite” that you posted? The Corelite shelves are a hollow shelf. Mark C refers to these in the above post. This may be a reason you are not receiving the responses you hoped for. Regards, Fred
  9. Fred Sweet

    Working with Lusters

    sima- Palladium Metallic Luster is a less expensive silvery color than either true silver or platinum lusters. Should you be looking for a white metal appearance. Regards, Fred
  10. Pres- The only extruder (that I know of) that is commercially made on this side of the pond is the North Star Big Blue. Might be a little big for just handles. You might try screw-type cookie presses, or if there’s someone you know in the other side of the pond, have them look for wad boxes. Regards, Fred
  11. laf- Could you be thinking of Pete Pinnell? He has several musings on cups. Regards, Fred
  12. Fred Sweet

    glazes or underglaze ?

    I’m thinking four different underglazes with a clear over. Don’t see evidence of breaking glaze color on rims.
  13. Fred Sweet

    Glaze Ingredient Storage

    Look into dog food storage containers. Mine came with wheels. Regards, Fred
  14. Fred Sweet

    Old Alpine Conversion

    bw- You might also consider mounting a poece of metal flashing about an inch + from the gas line. You could put a bend in it so that it shields the gas line from both the burner and the kiln floor. Regards, Fred
  15. Marcia- Found the link below for a FaceBook group. Don’t know if it is the discussion group referred to above. https://m.facebook.com/groups/653663804761760/?ref=group_header&view=group Regards, Fred
  16. It’s interesting that the chemical formula for tin oxide is SnO2, while the formula for titanium oxide is TiO2, yet most of the responses addressed the original question as being about reducing the amount of tin oxide. Are we certain that this was what was meant? Regards, Fred
  17. Fred Sweet

    Help to identify

    Pres- i’ve never used them, but I think that the measurements are done at the end of the firing ( from what I can determine from the pdf file, whose link I am PM to you). Review the information and let me know how you interpret it. For all others interested, here’s the link: http://www.mantectechnicalceramics.com/sites/default/files/bullers_rings_brochure.pdf Regards, Fred
  18. Fred Sweet

    Help to identify

    Krispy- In your first photo, are those Bullers Rings? Is there any markings on the box? This inquiring mind wishes to know. Regards, Fred
  19. Fred Sweet

    Help to identify

    Krispy- I suggest going to the source: https://evenheat-kiln.com/ go to classic Kilns. There you’ll find information about replacement on/off switches. Yours is an older kiln. Didn’t find a manual online for it, but you can either call them or request a copy via their “Send a Message” link. their phone is: 989-856-2281 by the way, what are the interior dimensions of your kiln? Rehards, Fred
  20. Fred Sweet

    bone china (unglazed)

    Min- Traditionally, bone china is bisqued at the clay body’s vitrification temperature and then glazed at a lower firing temperature. The ware is often supported during the bisque with stoneware or porcelain “setters to prevent warping. Respectfully, Fred
  21. Fred Sweet

    Unknown kiln make need rewiring

    Fluter- Is there a manufacturer name on the made in Japan label? Fred
  22. Fred Sweet

    Slab 2 Day Workshop "Slab Me Silly"

    Oldlady- I think that it is located near Columbia, NC. Regards- Fred
  23. Fred Sweet

    DIY spray booth with waterfall

    Ok, Oldlady, et al- The three videos in the series are listed below. They should be in the proper order. (Note: I took the address from the first video, and put it into YouTube search, and then found the other two) Anyway, they are below: Regards, Fred
  24. Fred Sweet

    DIY spray booth with waterfall

    Is it the response from j_tex that you are looking for? Copy below: am 98% finished with my spraybooth that I (finally) tackled during the holidays...I've had the materials collected for about a year but was just a little too intimidated to start. I shouldn't have worried; it's GREAT and works fantastically. I, too, looked for years at spraybooth designs and having taken two Steven Hill workshops over the last 12 years I was/am sold on the idea of spraying. I cobbled together a few low tech boxes w/filters and fans over the years but they were a temporary solution at best. If I couldn't come up with a dependable, functional spraybooth I knew I wouldn't get the repeatable results and high quality glazing that I was after. I became convinced that a waterfall spraybooth was the design that would fit my requirements the best because it is the most efficient design at containing the overspray and would help me avoid drilling a hole in my garage wall (brick). It uses a shop vac to create negative pressure in the booth instead of a fan and is on casters (like everything else in my "garagio"). I ran across Joe Dillett's waterfall spraybooth videos about 14 months ago on YouTube and joined Pottery Basics in Yahoo Groups so I could download the detailed construction drawing that goes along with the three videos. (  is the first one... the other two are linked from it.) Joe is very personable and corresponded with me by email when I had a few questions; he is a very skilled woodworker so he has great fabrication skills but you can have just average "wood butcher" skills (like me) and still get the necessary results. My cuts just aren't as beautiful as his... I liked his use of the plastic tank in lieu of a shower stall because I couldn't find a cheap enough shower stall (new OR used) and liked the idea that the tank lets you have doors that close it up when not in use. I won't go into the details of the booth; they're all there on the videos. I don't know if the materials are within your budget, but here are the major items of expense: 160 gallon polypropylene water tank (available locally to me so I picked it up) ... $170 and it is 31" dia x about 5 ft high. Six brass hinges and a hasp closure (Home Depot, about $40 total) Aluminum reflector work light (Home Depot, $20) 25" x 26" piece of 1/4" Plexiglass ($35.50, cut for me by my local glass and mirror company) ... picked this up this afternoon Assorted pieces of 1-1/2" and 1/2" PVC pipe and fittings ( Home Depot, probably $40 worth because I bought pre-cut 24" pieces of pipe instead of cutting my own from long lengths) Two movers dollies from Harbor Freight (8.99 each when I caught them on sale) I connected these together side by side with long pieces of 1x2 wood screwed into them... the booth sits on them and can be rolled around. Large fountain pump (692 GPH with 11' max lift) from Harbor Freight ($49.99 online but $37.50 after my 25% off New Year's Day coupon at my local HF store) Misc copper and plastic tubing clamps (less than $5), spare bucket for the pump to sit in, $8 of plastic sheet for the work light to sit on, etc. Shop vac and compressor (I already had them)... and $14.95 noise-cancelling ear muffs from Harbor Freight: they use AA batteries and cancel out sounds above 90 dB, allowing me to stop worrying about the noise the compressor plus shop vac make --- since I don't have the option to put the compressor in another room.  Good luck in your search; I know it's hard to get what you want within a reasonable budget but you will find it if you keep looking.
  25. Agree with Neil’s statement. I tend to do it while the wheel is turning. Regards, Fred
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