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C.Banks

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About C.Banks

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    C.Banks

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    Male
  • Location
    :somewhere along the pacific northwest
  • Interests
    well made pots
  1. As a point of clarification and in defense of swampy clay the rotten egg smell is sulfur/methane which is produce from bacteria not mold. A good example of these anaerobic/aerobic bacteria in action are Winogradsky columns. These columns are easy to make and show the distribution of organisms through a sample of 'swamp' depending on their need for oxygen. If i remember correctly the purple, non-sulfur, photosynthetic bacteria are isolated and put in some health drinks. The growth that I've seen on years old reclaimed clay in bags more resembles moss than mold so this discussion has me wondering what the green stuff is and if it's mold at all? I'm sure this is more than most wanted to know about hydrogen-sulfide gas(looked it up) but if you ever feel the need to grow a swamp-in-a-jar look up winogradsky columns. When i first found them I felt somehow let down we weren't required to make them in highschool biology class or even jr. high for that matter. anyway
  2. I wanted to add something but thinking a bit I've come to a similar conclusion. I have a nice white, mud tool sponge i like though. Maybe 'found' tools is a good qotw.
  3. From stories i've heard a good bag of mody clay is like finding a wheel of nicely ripened cheese - the more mold/smell the better. I wonder now if the green i've seen is strictly mold. Some old bags i've found look like little forests of growth. Mold on pots in something different i suspect. I know a 10% bleach solution in a spray bottle is recommended for black mold so maybe a bleach solution might work. I recycle my throwing water----> slop bucket----> throwing water so a bit of bleach helps keep the swamp aroma to a minimum. I'm using tea tree in a small slip container at the moment for a more fragrant option. I imagine oil of oregano will work the same to keep the bacteria(?) from producing the swamp gases(sulphur/methane?).
  4. Handy Techniques

    more of a tip than technique - upside down plastic containers make excellent damp boxes/buckets I had to leave vases with slip i was playing with. Two days later the slip(with darvan 7) was still shiny. I now have a collection of containers that fit nicely over individual pots for future consideration.
  5. name this glaze?

    My guess would be a magnesia matte of some sort on an iron speckled clay body. for more specific information try: https://digitalfire.com/4sight/glossary/glossary_matte_glaze.html
  6. I recently found this video again. It's been around for a while but it's easily enjoyed twice. The studio and making work seemed the most appropriate place to share it. http://www.joshburton.com/about/
  7. Rutile Glaze

    Small amounts of iron will help. If I remember correctly i've tried 0.5 - 2% black iron oxide with rutile/titanium with some success. Titanium promotes crystal growth so rates of cooling will affect the results more than most. *iirc titanium acts as crystal 'seeds' but others will know better
  8. I tried to think of a few but managed to forget more than i care to admit so I'll just leave this:
  9. Goldmark is a good source for videos. Youtube has some but there is a feed from the UK that is better - can't remember it atm. Phil Rogers is fun to watch. There are others including some black and white of Shoji Hamada. *http://inspirations.ceramic.nl/Technical/overviewtechnica.html not the site i was looking for but educational none-the-less
  10. ​Are you cutting off and reusing the bats or grabbing a fresh/dry one? ​ ​​Particle board bats will absorb moisture and have given me the same grief.
  11. How Long To Reach Cone 9? Is It My Kiln?

    There has been a lot of heat-work done. Generally speaking an undefired kiln can be refired with good success. It's unfortunate timing for your Mums day pots. This will be a good learning experience though - Goodness knows we have all had a few. *you may already be aware of the Orton chart: http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/cone_wall_chart_horiz.pdf The section in the lower right that explains a bit about the idea of heat over time may not be the most comforting at this point but it helped me understand how heat works.
  12. How Long To Reach Cone 9? Is It My Kiln?

    You need to fix something. The kiln is firing way too long. *I sometimes have issues with reading comprehension obviously but electric kilns should never fire for days in a row. You need to turn it off and trouble shoot the elements/electronics.
  13. How Long To Reach Cone 9? Is It My Kiln?

    This kiln has a kiln sitter, there are no relays or control board. If it is a fried switch, one of those costs $85. ugh I should stick to lurking
  14. How Long To Reach Cone 9? Is It My Kiln?

    My money is on a burnt element. "If they all burn, then they're probably worn out." This I suspect might be a moment of dyslexia - if not I'm confused as well. If the kiln is older but still in good shape as far as the fire brick goes it is definitely worth some love. I'm no electrician but I do know the switches and relays that make an electric kiln run are relatively simple to work on and cheap to replace. A qualified/experienced kiln tech/electrician type person will be able to fix the control board easily if necessary. Those elements are probably tired and on their way out. iirc they cost about 50$ each and will set you up for another 40+ firings. The are not much fun to remove and replace but with some good side-cutters and needle-nose the job can be done in an afternoon. It sounds like your relays are still 'clicking' on and off? afaik relays will fail in one of two positiions - on or off. On is bad and will cause a runaway and is one of the reasons to never turn your back on a kiln near the end of it's firing. hope this helps a bit
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