mrcasey Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 What it should look like is the top picture. The bottom test tile is my failed version. Firing cone 6 oxidation. Any ideas? Alberta Slip 37.00 Nepheline Syenite 20.00 Silica 20.00 Vansil W-30 Wollastonite 15.00 Gerstley Borate 5.00 Kentucky OM #4 Ball Clay 3.00 Total base recipe 100.00 Red stain 8.00 Manganese Dioxide 6.00 Red Iron Oxide 6.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 Good question. Was the glaze applied thickly to the test tile? Which stain did you use? I'm seeing Mason 6088, 6021, unspecified... Was the tile fired oxidation? To what cone? The clay, looks like a speckled buff. I'd expect that glaze's look to vary, depending on the clay. The glowing red image, that's over porcelain, cone 6 oxidation? I've been using a tin chrome red, cone 5/6, the "Chrome Red" in Britt's book (I got the recipe from the Junior College ceramic lab notebook {with permission, o' course}). Check back for input from other Forum members... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcasey Posted July 19 Author Report Share Posted July 19 It was applied super thick. S.G. 150 with 4 dips The description advised a really thick coat. I don't recall the Mason Stain number, but it's some bright red Fired to cone 6 oxidation Our community studio voted to discontinue the tin/chrome red because some folks don't like the slight burgundy color (even without cobalt). People have been asking for a red, and I thought that this was outstanding. It's got crystals and depth, which the chrome/tin red kind of lacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted July 19 Report Share Posted July 19 After reading the Glazy page for the that glaze, I think it would be a very poor choice for a community studio. It's way too dependent on application thickness and only looks really red in the right lighting (bright sunlight). There are going to be tons of problems with it due to the really thick application, especially when people start layering it with other glazes. Like problems with it falling off the pot before it ever goes in the kiln, and running off the pot during the firing. I would also question the safety and durability of the glaze since it has 8% red stain and 20% total colorant additions. If you really don't like the raspberry reds (there are a lot of them out there to try), your next best bet for a true red would be a copper red that uses silicon carbide as the reducing agent. Those glazes come with their own problems, though, as they are typically really low in clay content so suspension in the bucket can be problematic, and they tend to be pretty runny. They may also require a specific firing schedule to work. Raspberry reds are generally stable, easy to use, and consistent. No, they're not a true red, but some only have a touch of purple to them and look really good, especially when applied properly on white bodies. But they also work well on brown bodies because they are quite opaque. We're currently using on in my studio where I've added a good amount of cobalt to it (at least 0.5%), so it's a really nice eggplant-ish purple when thick, but breaks to a blue where thin. Without any cobalt, most are quite red, although several of the ones I've tested were too stiff. By increasing the melt slightly the color development was better. mrcasey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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