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Paragon Caldera Brick Replacement


Tamra

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When I purchased this kiln, used, the seller shipped the shelf kit inside the kiln and it damaged 3 of 4 walls.  If the bricks are 8.5" length x 3" h x 2.5" wide the bottom 3 bricks have  1.5 up to the heating element groove broken.    I didn't think anyone would ship a shelf kit inside the kiln.     The shelf kit arrived without damage, though, but not the kiln.  (They did refund 50% of my cost.)

EACH wall is $120.55.

If I purchased 2 walls and then use the remaining parts of the two walls to repair the 3rd wall, I have an entire kiln.  The wall with the controller arrived undamaged.

Is is possible to resaw kiln brick with a hand saw?  I have reasonable hand saw skills.  (Very comfortable with hand woodworking tools and lots more experience with wood then ceramics - so I'm trying new things :-)  If I should not use a hand saw, what is the recommendation tool for sizing kiln brick for replacement?

Would you use Paragon's kiln cement or Pyrolite?

If I just order 10" bricks,  what kind of router bit is used on kiln bricks so I can route the groove for the elements.

I ordered some bricks off eBay, and while the match perfectly  for the element placement, and met the spec for 2350 degrees Fahrenhiet, they are beveled, and I don't think this is going to hold heat with that much brick absent .    I have not even turned the kiln on.  I already own an Evenheat 810.  

This kiln will allow me to fire miniature pottery, and keep my Evenheat for porcelain only.

Are there any Kiln repair pro(s) out there in Chicago, SW Michigan or Indiana, down to Indy area that actually will talk to you on the phone?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can share.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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If you are shipping a kiln, advise the shipper DO NOT SHIP with anything in the interior of the kiln.  

I will get accurate cuts with a hand saw because I will set something up to cut accurately.   

Photo is the bottom of the kiln facing the camera.

Injured Caldera .jpg

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Correction:  The wall with the controller, arrived DAMAGED.  

The issue with purchasing an entire kiln body section is that I don't even know if it works at this point, and I'm just pouring money down a pit.

The alternate is to  glue it back together and see if it fires.  There is nothing holding the elements in place, so literally, I'm going to have a hot mess if I plug this kiln in and test it in this condition; and it doesn't seem wise or safe to see if I can bring this to 2350 degrees.

If anyone has experience trying both Pyrolite and Kiln cement, I would welcome the feedback.

 

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I had three walls in my caldera, which I also boight used, arrive broken as well. I found a lovely guy on youtube who did the following:

 

 

I didn't need to watch those whole series, but this part was nice and it saved me 350 bucks (shipping). I bought kiln bricks and for mortar the lovely Casey Clark from Great Basin Pottery confirmed a recipe from his predecessor of 50/50 silica/kaolin with a splash of deflocullant such as sodium silicate (I had and therefore used darvan) with enough water to form a paste. Lemme tell you that jazz worked like a charm.  I spent 50 bucks on bricks and even though I had to replace one wall entirely and used other pieces to patch the others, I still had three bricks left over. Super stoked. 

You might want to test the elements individually to make sure everything is electricallly working, and that will help guide you in decision on what to do next. But keep in mind replacing elements is just part of the cost of having a kiln, and you were going to have to anyway, eventually. I spun my own using kanthal wire and it was a PITA but saved me another $300, which made it worth it. Tangent, but i say this to give you hope. So much of this can be done DIY if you are willing to sweat a little. 

Keep us posted!

Edited by Retxy
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