LaurelB Posted March 28, 2022 Report Share Posted March 28, 2022 I've been experimenting with clay harvested from my yard. It is a beautiful color, very plastic, slakes easily for easy processing, but cracks like crazy... Even small, very stable forms crack into pieces if not dried VERY slowly... Like 2 weeks to dry a shot glass size cup. I've added grogg, with a small improvement, but I'm hoping someone here can give me some advice on what to add to make a claybody with better drying performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted March 28, 2022 Report Share Posted March 28, 2022 Was a lot on these forums about this a while back. Try a search "local clay" @glazenerd may help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted March 28, 2022 Report Share Posted March 28, 2022 15 hours ago, LaurelB said: 've been experimenting with clay harvested from my yard. It is a beautiful color, very plastic, slakes easily for easy processing, but cracks like crazy... Even small, very stable forms crack into pieces if not dried VERY slowly.. Your photograph resembles a red clay from my ponds that I use; by its self, my pond clay needs to be fired significantly higher than cone 10 to become "mature"; I once made a sundial with only the pond clay -- straight out of the pond -- fired to cone 10, the fired piece was a nice red but equivalent to a "bisque" firing regards to strength and absorption. After that, my "solution" was to mix the pond clay with commercial clay bodies; essentially using the pond clay as a colorant. I now use the pond clay as a decorative coating for my work. It also makes an interesting component in cone 10 glazes. I suggest mixing the "yard clay" with some commercial clay body. start with a small amount of commercial clay body and go from there. dry ball milling my "pond clay" improved the strength of drying tests. LT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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