need help with wax resist

[buckeye]

So I had a great first bisque fire the other day and I had a few cups that I wanted the inside to be white and the outside to be another color. I have never used wax resist but was hoping I could tape a line around the cup at the lip, dip it, leave the tape on and once the glay dried use was resist to cover the lip with the glaze on it, pull the tape and then glaze the body. When I pull the tape all my wax comes off.. awesome.. ok not really.

 

I have a few questions. First, I got wax resist that looks like crayons at hobby lobby, its 10 minutes away vs 45. Is this the issue? Do I need to go to my supplier and get liquid wax resist?

 

Second question, is there something better or another, easier way to accomplish what I want?

[Marcia Selsor]

You can wax the bottom if you like, but I have never seen the crayons you describe for waxing the bottoms. I get a liquid wax from ceramic suppliers.

Dampen your mug with a fast rinse or a damp sponge. It won't soak the glaze too fast if a little damp.

Let it set a little while. Then pour the glaze inside the cup and either using a wrist action , swirl the glaze around to cover the entire interior (takes practice), or roll it pouring the glaze out. Clean any drips. Let it dry. Then put your hand inside the mug and dip it into the outside glaze up to the top counting quickly to 10 and remove from the glaze.Touch up and missed spots with a sponge.

If you didn't glaze, then while your hand is still in the mug, swirl it on a piece of damp foanm or a sponge to remove the glaze from the bottom.

 

Marcia

[buckeye]

marcia, thanks for the reply.

 

I poured glaze on the inside and did the inside, was hoping to brush the outside. when I did the inside I had put tape around the rim where I wanted it to break. I was hoping to keep it taped, add was resist, remove my tape then brush the outside but like I said my wax was peeling off with the tape. anyone have an idea how I can accomplish what I am trying to do?

[Marcia Selsor]

So where are you using the wax resist? what type of wax resist? I have used latex to peel off and have a clean surface. What exactly are you trying to resist? Why can't you use the

the glazing method I described and the wax resist. I don't see the need for tape. Maybe you could describe what you are trying to do a little more. The method of glazing I describe should give you a clean edge.

Marcia

[buckeye]

So where are you using the wax resist? what type of wax resist? I have used latex to peel off and have a clean surface. What exactly are you trying to resist? Why can't you use the

the glazing method I described and the wax resist. I don't see the need for tape. Maybe you could describe what you are trying to do a little more. The method of glazing I describe should give you a clean edge.

Marcia

 

 

 

Marcia, maybe you did explain it right and I am just not fully understanding what your saying. Here is what I am trying to do.

 

I put masking tape around the top, outside lip of my cup, Poured glaze in, swirled it around like you said then dumped it out. Next, before I removed the tape I was going to put wax resist over the white just on the lip before I removed the tape thinking I would have my fine line and wax over top of my freshly glazed edge so when I glazed the outside of the mug if I accidently got a little glaze on my white rim it wouldnt matter because it would be protected with wax and it would also give me a perfect line using the tape then waxing over my white lip before pulling the tape.

 

My problem was when I put the wax on the rim when I pulled the tape the wax came off with it. My question is if I use liquid wax resist will this still be a problem? Is there a whole other method I should be using to accomplish what I am trying to do?

I hope this explains it better

[TypicalGirl]

Hey Buckeye,

I think I see what you're trying to accomplish.

I don't use wax resist anymore. Partly because I don't feel it works well on greenware (I single fire), and partly because I don't like the workability and drying time.

I use shellac instead. Works well for me.

 

So, try this...

Apply your tape I know a lot of potters swear by auto detailing tape instead of masking tape).

Pour your glaze inside your cup and let it dry.

Then pour some shellac inside, over your liner glaze and swirl it around so it coats the inside of the cup completely.

Pour out the excess and let it set up just a bit and then pull off your tape and let the shellac dry completely before you apply your outer glaze.

You should be able to clean any glaze oops and get your nice clean line I would think.

 

Make sense?

[buckeye]

Hey Buckeye,

I think I see what you're trying to accomplish.

I don't use wax resist anymore. Partly because I don't feel it works well on greenware (I single fire), and partly because I don't like the workability and drying time.

I use shellac instead. Works well for me.

 

So, try this...

Apply your tape I know a lot of potters swear by auto detailing tape instead of masking tape).

Pour your glaze inside your cup and let it dry.

Then pour some shellac inside, over your liner glaze and swirl it around so it coats the inside of the cup completely.

Pour out the excess and let it set up just a bit and then pull off your tape and let the shellac dry completely before you apply your outer glaze.

You should be able to clean any glaze oops and get your nice clean line I would think.

 

Make sense?

 

 

Makes sense but I dont need to coat the whole inside, just up to my sharp line and maybe an eight of an inch or so but I should be able to just use a brush. I have heard of people using shellac before, I guess it burns off during firing and wont contaminate the glazed section it is covering? does it smell during firing? any draw backs?

 

I had ruled out shellac because of a recent post on here where someone said they were using tape/shellac and when they pulled their tape up the shellac came up as well, same problem I am having with my was resist.

[TypicalGirl]

 

Makes sense but I dont need to coat the whole inside, just up to my sharp line and maybe an eight of an inch or so but I should be able to just use a brush. I have heard of people using shellac before, I guess it burns off during firing and wont contaminate the glazed section it is covering? does it smell during firing? any draw backs?

 

I had ruled out shellac because of a recent post on here where someone said they were using tape/shellac and when they pulled their tape up the shellac came up as well, same problem I am having with my was resist.

 

 

Peel the tape off while the shellac is still tacky.

Burns off just fine.

Yeah, you can just brush it on. if you want you can thin it with denatured alcohol.

[bciskepottery]

Why not glaze the outside first, let dry and clean up any dribbles on the inside, then glaze the inside -- using the techniques Marcia suggested Touch up rim with brush, as needed. No wax. No tape. No shellac. No denatured alchohol.

[buckeye]

Why not glaze the outside first, let dry and clean up any dribbles on the inside, then glaze the inside -- using the techniques Marcia suggested Touch up rim with brush, as needed. No wax. No tape. No shellac. No denatured alchohol.

 

 

 

I will have to try that next time but the problem with it right now is I had already glazed the inside thinking that wax resist would do what I wanted it to do.

[Idaho Potter]

Buckeye,

 

I like to glaze my mugs with different colors inside and out. My method--if I want a straight line just below the lip curve--is to use lightweight plastic (veggie bag) and tape to cover up the outside while glazing the inside. No runs or drips on the outside. After the glaze is dry, remove the tape, insert your hand in the mug and carefully push the mug into the outside glaze. Because the mug wants to float, you control how far down you push it and your straight line is maintained. Clean the bottom and fire after it's dry.

[richardsan]

i just asked about a similar solution to something like this.

...i'm trying to avoid an extra cleaning step...; ^)...i'm in the "i don't glaze bottoms" camp. i do the liner first...swirl and pour out[that usually leaves about a 1 inch glaze pour 'mark' at the lip]. then dunk upside down as far as i want to near the bottom and then drain upside down to prevent drips. i think my tape idea will suit my process and prevent that drip off the lip i'm not exactly anal about, don't mind, but want to do something different this glaze cycle. i think a piece of green/blue painter's tape will be a fast enough solution and glaze resistant...a 1.5" strip of the tape applied to the area where one is going to pour the liner glaze from...should act as a sort of spout for the glaze to run off and not stick to that edge of the lip. i use the tape for some glaze spraying masking applications.

 

hope this helps....