Benhim Posted November 25, 2011 Report Share Posted November 25, 2011 I'd like an opinion on these iron red oxidation glazes as far as durability and general formulation. I don't typically use anything that has this much Gerstley Borate. I got this off of a blog or forum, not sure where so I can't give credit. The one at the bottom is done as a batch, but only has about 26% gerstley borate, but 45% gerstley borate seems extreme to me. JO'S RED ^5-6 O Gerstley Borate45 EPK 10 Talc 15 Flint 30 + RED IRON OXIDE22 (YES) Use THICK for good red KETCHUP RED (^6 OX) EPKaolin 5 Silica 30 Cust .Felds 20 GBorate 32 Fe2O3 15 IRON RED (^6 OX) EPK 5.88 SILICA 29.41 CUSTER FELDSPAR 19.61 TALC 13.73 GERSTLEY BORATE 31.37 add RED IRON OXIDE 14.71 Iron Red Glossy Cone 5,OxidationPotash Feldspar - 1000 Gerstley Borate - 1500 Talc - 750 EPK - 250 Silica - 1500 Red Iron Oxide – 750 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loy34 Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 I had my first successful firing yesterday Hooray! <br style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; ">I was having load of problems with getting up to the right heat, but now all is well in mudville, except, my greens are red, my tans are blue, my lavenders are tan. I am using a natural gas kiln, top loading. The glazes are premixed in powder form, Moroccan sands from Laguna. I have used the same colors before, but they were fired with an electric kiln, by my instructor. Now, I am on my own, and I know I have a lot to figure out. What it looks like to me, is some reduction's going on. The colors turned out not unlike cone 10 glazes I have seen. They are quite lovely, but not what I was after. I know I got to temp, and maybe a touch hotter, as the cone 6 in my 4 5 6 cone pack slightly melted, and my self supporting cone 5 cone completely melted. Since the kiln is new to me, I have put many items of heat measurements in place, just to get to know the kiln. I have also fired most of the ware a few times, while I was not reaching proper temp. I don't believe that would have made a difference, but perhaps it did? Anyway, if anyone has some words of wisdom, I would love to hear them. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benhim Posted November 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 You'll get more response by posting a new thread instead of a reply to this tread. Yes it sounds like you had significant reduction going on in your kiln. You can talk to a Laguna representative about the best atmosphere, they might be able to guide you in firing their glazes better than me because I don't use them. If you have the ability to open up your secondary air that could help you oxidize, as well as opening the damper slightly. Obviously you'll want to hit peak temperature and soak, but then instead of turning off the gas you can try firing down in oxidation by giving the same fuel more air. This can burn off some carbon and brighten your colors. I know a guy with a downdraft that cracks the door of his kiln and fires down in oxidation to brighten his iron reds. Not suggesting you do this unless you're comfortable with your kiln as it could be somewhat dangerous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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