tman123
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Posts posted by tman123
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On 5/3/2024 at 7:23 PM, Min said:
Soldate 60 is great stuff. It's a cone 10 clay but for sculptural firing to midrange would work too. I've known people use it for Raku firing also.
Going to try Soldate 60, will let you know how it goes.
I threw with Laguna buff sculpture the other day and it was super gritty and pretty uncomfortable to throw with but perhaps that's just an adjustment I need to make from B-Mix.
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33 minutes ago, tman123 said:
I am not too concerned with the color of the clay/Aardvark is near me. As far as the cone of the clay, I am hoping to stay in the cone 5 range but these pieces are sculptural and will only be for display purposes.
I would like the clay to be somewhat smooth - not necessarily like porcelain but not super coarse.
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22 minutes ago, neilestrick said:
I'm not familiar with Laguna bodies. Is that the only brand you have available near you?
Is vitrification and glaze fit important to you, or do you prefer a cone 10 body so it's more forgiving?
I assume you want white, not brown, since you were using BMix?
I am not too concerned with the color of the clay/Aardvark is near me. As far as the cone of the clay, I am hoping to stay in the cone 5 range but these pieces are sculptural and will only be for display purposes.
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On 5/2/2024 at 5:32 AM, neilestrick said:
B-Mix, even with grog, does not have a good particle size distribution. It's mostly very fine particles, and then large particles from grog. Not a lot of in-between sizes. You want a body that has a good variety of particle sizes, so a stoneware body that has fireclay, ball clay, grog, etc.
do you have any good recommendations ? im firing in the cone 5-6 range
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Hi,
I make large wheel thrown sculptures where I am stacking multiple sections and then attaching other wheel thrown pieces onto the sculpture…
I am wondering if you guys have any recommendations in terms of what kind of clay to use - I have been using B Mix with Grog but it’s been cracking a bit.
Thank you, Theo
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I’m brushing the glaze on, my main concern is that when I brush it on glaze will get underneath the piece so I’m just wondering how to do it so that I don’t have to wipe the glaze off bottom after glazing the piece - a friend suggested just glazing the bottom first then wiping it off and then doing the top so I may go with that
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On 4/26/2024 at 11:30 AM, Hulk said:
Hi tman!
Can you elaborate on what you are aiming for?
I'm not clear on the bottom - are you leaving it bare?
Are the glazes you are using fluid - do they sag and run? Are you aiming for a thinner glaze application at the bottom to "catch" running glaze?Almost all my work is functional and rests on a bare clay foot ring.
I use masking tape for a clean sharp line. Pulling the tape while the glaze layer is still moist minimizes dust...
Dipping upside down, the glaze is thickest at the rim, thinnest near the foot.Wiping away glaze - seems easier when the glaze is still moist, especially if the point is to wipe some, but not all of the glaze layer away.
When the glaze if fully dry, wetting it, then waiting a few moments for the moisture to penetrate is almost same...I’m just aiming to apply the glaze in a way that covers the piece evenly… it’s a large piece (it’s sculptural and there’s no openings, I’m just glazing the outside) … I just want to apply the glaze and not mess the application up when I go to wipe it so that’s why I was thinking of applying a couple layers on the bottom half then wiping it then putting it on rest of piece
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Hi! I wanted to ask to see if anyone has any pointers on wiping the glaze off the bottom of a large piece without ruining the application on the glaze on the piece. It’s about 29 high by 15 wide and pretty cylindrical. I plan on brushing the glaze on (about 4 layers) and I was thinking of doing 3 layers towards the bottom section, wiping the bottom off, then doing four on the rest with some slight overlap on the already glazed bottom. (A little worried where there is overlap there will be a lot of glaze)
Was also thinking doing three layers on the whole thing, resting it on foam or something like that and wiping bottom off, then do final layer…the only thing with this is worried moving it onto foam might mess the glaze up.
Would appreciate any input! Thank you
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Thank you all for the advice. Much appreciated
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Hi,
I'm planning to make a sculpture that is about 29 inches high and 15 inches wide, it will be wheel thrown so imagine a tall cylinder... it has a really delicate heavy texture on the exterior of the piece so I am wondering what I should build on so that when I move it to the kiln I wont need to actually grab it with my hands and risk messing the texture up. I will be firing in an skutt electric that I can disassemble. A few thoughts - I have heard of people firing on drywall, is this ok for the elements? What about just building on top of a kiln shelf? I plan on putting sand underneath what I build. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you!
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Hi!
I'm working on large sculptural pottery and I'm looking to get an even coat of underglaze without brush marks.
Is the only way to do this via spraying or are there other methods of getting rid of brush strokes during application?
Any tips and help would be appreciated. (I'm mostly using AMACO velvet underglazes).
Here is a piece from Tomoya Sakai that has the desired surface finish I'm looking to achieve.
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also, sorry but why does it matter to slow the firing down during that 1000-1100 degree mark?
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can the stilts support the weight of the pot? will it not sag between stilts?
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Hi,
I have a piece that is about 31' high by 15' wide and probably at most 1.5 inch thick in thickest areas.
I'm wondering if I need to do a slow glaze firing and if I do should I run my own super slow glaze program? Will firing super slow possibly mess up any glaze and is it even necessary because it's already survived the bisque. What are the benefits of a slower glaze firing for sculptural work?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you
Recommended clay for throwing large altered forms
in Studio Operations and Making Work
Posted
Hi,
I am wondering if you guys have a good white clay body recommendation for throwing large forms that I will then alter.
I asked this already in another post and was told to try Soldate 60 which I will be doing I am just curious if there is a white/lighter clay body that’s good for what I’m trying to do.
cheers T