jram

Most building codes in a garage require GFI or GFICs but thats the 110v curcuits (never put a frezzer or Refer on one) . 22OV CURCUITS usually do not apply.

I would not put a kiln on a GFCI if I had a choice. If it trips durin g a fire you lost all that power/heat and have to start over

I am not sure why a kiln would trip it as they work by comparing the power going in and out and if they don't match then it cuts the power. In the UK most panels have a GFCI (RCD) that all the power has to go through first before any breakers. Seems better to have one as if current starts flowing through you to ground then it will probably save your life.

Hello,
I am in the process of ordering a Skutt KM 1022. The required breaker size is 60 amp .  I have a 100 amp subpanel in my studio that I installed myself, and this has been inspected. I plan on running a 240v circuit for my new kiln, but I am seeing conflicting information on whether or not I need a GFCI. I spoke to Skutt tech support and he stated that "  a GFCI will sometimes trip." However, I am seeing in the NEC that I am required to have a GFCI breaker for the 240v circuit. Can anyone confirm this?  is GFCI needed with a kiln?
Further details- Kiln will be 5 feet away from the subpanel
Kiln comes with a NEMA 6-50 plug installed.

Hi and welcome to the forum! 
I’d wait for some more sparky forum members to chime in to be sure, but Skutt and L and L kiln’s websites both recommend against GFCI because kiln brick’s electrical resistance reduces with heat, which can indeed trip a GFCI at the wrong time. ConeArt recommends having most models direct wired into the electrical box, and suggests consulting a licensed electrician who knows kilns. (Not all electricians are familiar: my own journeyman cousin wouldn’t touch my install because it wasn’t his area of expertise.)
Edited to add: I’m shifting this thread to the Equipment Use and Repair section so it gets more eyes on it.