Catatonic
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Posts posted by Catatonic
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Update--
Those schematics are helpful, especially the one with the lube points. I used PPL-1 grease by ParkTool but I still get to a point where there is distinct resistance and then it kind of "thunks" past it--right about the time the guide bar moves just past the halfway point through the whatever-you-call-that-thing-it-slides-through. I can't see anything on the guide bar that would account for it and the other linkages, including the roller wheel, move freely enough. When I push to the highest speed, the wheel head actually slows down, and then picks up when I back off a little, but that may be a separate problem. Could the guide bar actually have a slight bend, not readily visible to the eye? (I guess now I am asking for a physics lesson. 😬)
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24 minutes ago, Hulk said:
WD-40 is useful for many things, however, it is not a particularly good lubricant.
Disassemble, clean, and grease could be a good choice.
Light machine oil where disassembly isn't an option?
Flushing with the WD-40 and then following up with something else could be a good choice.Disassemble, clean, polish as necessary - if there's any galling, lube with good grease, reassemble.
"a large sponge with a hole in the middle that he'd push over the knob on the "gearshift" lever "
Yeah. Sigh. That disassembly stuff. 😵💫 That rather intimidates me, honestly. What light machine oil would you recommend? I have chain lubricant for my bike... and what does "galling" mean, other than as it applies to watching news reports of the coming election? The sponge on the pedal lever is a great idea!
- Hulk and Bill Kielb
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I have a 1975-built Shimpo RK-2 that has been doing pottery far longer than I have. I acquired it in 2020 from a relative who taught pottery for 45 years at a fire sale price ($150 and came with 300lbs of dried stoneware clay). It was very well maintained during his time and it's still a workhorse, but.....the pedal. The pedal is super stiff and doesn't allow me to moderate the speed of the wheel at need without really leaning on that pedal or using the lever (with my messy slip-saturated hands.) As a learner, it makes it hard to manage a pull on the clay. I tried applying some WD-40 to the place outside the housing where the pedal is attached, but no dice.
I am somewhat mechanically inclined but the manual for this machine shows NOTHING about the pedal assembly. Does anyone have any advice on how to deal with this? Or must I begin saving my nickels for a newer machine?
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On 6/30/2021 at 4:13 PM, JohnS said:
That would be great thanks.
Cheers for the answers. Might to try to give it another go tomorrow then.
Cheers
JohnS--its been a long time responding to this (oh my, has it already been four months??? I'm so sorry!) but I have finally (just now!) gotten a call from the guy who worked on my old Duncan (Peter Yang). Here's the weird situation with that... when I first used that kiln, the dial would click at each of the firing settings--once at 7 o' clock for Overglaze, once at 4 o' clock for Ceramic, once at 2 o' clock for Hi Fire and once at 12 o' clock for Off. It all lined up with the labels on the face of the kiln. But on the very day my elements went crazy, so did the dial: it no longer clicked at the Off position, but it would click at 11 o'clock, and at 10 o' clock and at 2 o'clock. Totally mysterious. When Peter did his test firings on the kiln to isolate why the new elements he put in weren't firing to temperature, he just dealt with it as it was--didn't worry about the clicks, but just used the arrow as his guide because it was installed correctly with the flat bit facing Off. So that's the end of the story, I guess. He tells me that the original Duncan dial was installed right side up, but the later dials made by Paragon for the old Duncan kilns were to be installed upside down. The newest dials, apparently, are completely different and require a conversion kit. I don't know if this is any help at all, but there you have it.
Cat
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Bill— It’s not a matter of turning it in the right direction, it was more a matter of the mechanism behind the knob not acting as it did prior to that last firing. All of a sudden where before it had a natural stopping point at each one of those settings, it no longer did; in fact it would actually click in areas that didn’t have a marked label on the face. It seemed that it was out of sync with where the settings were supposed to be. I couldn’t really tell where “on” really was.
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On 6/29/2021 at 5:56 AM, JohnS said:
I just ordered a thermometer gun style thingy (technical term)
Apparently you are just as technical as me, and another cock-eyed optimist to boot! ;0) I think psychologists call this behavior, "equity rescuing".
I just checked and yes, the arrow should be in line with the flat part of the --ahem-- thingy.
That being said, I will mention that this dial was part of the drama I mentioned above. In the first several firings, the arrow coincided with the labels on the face of the control panel, and I got a satisfying click at the Off, Overglaze, Ceramic and Hi Fire positions. Somehow during the firing when the elements first went bad, it went wonky and has remained so ever since (somehow my kiln guy could make it work but I have no idea how. I will contact him to ask and get back to you on that if you like.) Now it clicks when the arrow is at the 10 o'clock position, the Hi Fire position and Off. So I'm missing a click, and there's no way to settle if the works behind the dial have offset by some regular interval, such that I could just relabel the dial. And now that I have rewired for the new kiln (different power load) I can't plug it in to test at what setting the elements actually turn on, so sorry, friend. Maybe it needs some new dial works ....thingies...
Oops, there go the brakes....
=^x^=
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On 6/25/2021 at 5:41 PM, JohnS said:
Hey @Catatonic, did you ever get a firing schedule that worked? I've only just now got my kiln up and running after having a dodgy relay, which the guys kindly helped me with here, and now looking to get bisque firing, but like you I found that setting to ceramic shuts off after about 3 hours.
Any joy?
Cheers
John, here's what I did on my last successful bisque firing, using Bill's recommendation of reimagining the dial. I used "clock settings" though.
I started at 10 o' clock and sat there for two hours, increased to 8:30 for an hour and 50 minutes, then to 7 o' clock for an hour and 10 minutes, then moved to "Overglaze" setting for two hours, then to "Ceramic". It shut off after an additional 2 hours and 40 minutes. Everything seemed to come out nicely and gave me around a 9.5 hour burn. After this I invested in a pyrometer so I could dial things in more scientifically.
Now for the rest of the story. I did a total of 5 bisque firings with that kiln, and in the last one a couple of elements failed. Barely made it to temp and took ages to get there. So I priced out new elements, which I posted about on another thread. Found a supplier in MI that would make some for about half the price (Not Euclids, regretably). Paid to have them installed because I am not that person. ;0) Did a break in firing, which took quite a bit longer than expected, but I was experimenting with the firing schedule, using my shiny new pyrometer to see if I could replicate a "preheat" phase like you can do with a digital controller, so I wrote it off to user error. (Call me the Queen of Overthink.) Next I did a glaze load--my very first! The kiln barely got to cone 04 after 19 hours; I had to shut it off manually. My repairman did some troubleshooting --replacing every. single. part. to determine where the problem was. He did a tweak that improved the firing, but still only got to cone 04. Turned out the elements weren't made to spec--supplier used the wrong gauge wire and too many wraps, ergo, high resistance and low firing temperature. A bit of back and forth between supplier and repairman before this was admitted. Still waiting on the replacement elements, but they did offer store credit for my trouble (after I asked). During that one and only glaze firing I also noticed the fiber lid began to flake and dust onto my glazeware. Began to feel like the person who buys a "bargain car" that always needs repairs and thinks, "once I take care of the radiator, it will be reliable" but then the brakes go out.
After all this my husband made me an offer I could not refuse: just buy a new kiln, get what you want, and be done (he'd just gotten a substantial raise). So I got an L&L Easy fire kiln, adding 50% to my capacity, and got a digital controller to boot. In the meantime, I did find a rigidizer to treat the kiln lid, so I will sell it, with the replacement elements when they come, to any taker willing to install them on his/her own. After all, it's been fully refurbished after this drama, and has 4 full shelves and a half shelf, all new, a pyrometer with thermocouple already installed, and the lid and floor just treated to harden it. Hopefully I can recoup some of what I put into it. So there ya have it. My joy is in my new kiln. Best of luck to you with yours.
This would have been a much better story over a pint in some dusty pub, but best I can do via distance!
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12 hours ago, Mark C. said:
I keep a gallon on hand
I guess using this stuff is something I am likely to be doing as regular kiln maintenance? Do you find it necessary to use this on firebrick parts of kilns as well as the fiber parts? Just curious.
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1 hour ago, Bill Kielb said:
Search refractory coatings rigidizer..
Great suggestion! I immediately pulled up a lot of hits and found that Paragon makes one specifically for kilns for just under $14 a pint. This is a lifesaver--thanks!
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43 minutes ago, Mark C. said:
this coat is best
The notes on this say its a deflocculant for making slip; I guess the use as a rigidizer is insider knowledge! Am I supposed to use it as is, or am I supposed to mix it with water, and if so, what proportions? Same directions as stated for making slip?
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53 minutes ago, neilestrick said:
They also make products that stabilize and harden fiber that may help.
Any idea where I could find this stuff? It could at least make the kiln usable for low fire or glass work.
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51 minutes ago, Callie Beller Diesel said:
Hi @Catatonic
I’m moving your post into the Equipment Use and Repair section, so it gets more visibility. I see that you’ve also started some further conversations in This thread here that involves a kiln identical to your own. Let me know if you want to continue in that other one, or move the discussion over here.
Better to keep it here. John S won't get much help from me!
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Hi Peeps.
I have a Duncan EA-820 that I just replaced the elements on, only to have the lid begin flaking and dusting all my glaze work; the kiln also misfired. Had to shut it off after 18 hours trying to reach ^6 when it leveled off below ^04. So. Much. Fun. I am wondering if the lid could be the cause of the kiln not reaching target temperature after just replacing the elements, or whether my kiln repair guy is correct in saying the elements are not up to spec. They were custom made by a reputable pottery supply place at half the cost of Paragon Kiln Company's parts, and came as coils which needed to be stretched before installation. They were broken in with a ^04 bisque firing before attempting that glaze firing. My kiln guy has been troubleshooting and all the parts other than elements, including sitter, switches, relays and the lot were tested out as a control to eliminate the chance they might be the problem. As of last two firings, it successfully reached ^04 but no higher.
I could sell it as a low fire kiln to recoup some costs in good conscience and put it toward a shiny new L&L kiln if not for that flaky lid. I saw an archived thread that dealt with the question of ceramic fiber kiln lids and floors, and the suggestion to replace them with firebrick. How could that be done? And would it even be worth the cost and labor? Would love to hear some thoughts about this.
Cat
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On 1/8/2021 at 4:14 AM, JohnS said:
Firing should take let’s say approximately 9-12 hours to burn out all the organics.
Quote is actually a quote of Bill Klieb, so Bill, can you answer my question?
If your bisque firing lasted only 7 hours (two hours on low, say, 3:00 position, two hours on "Overglaze" which is about 5:30, and the rest--4 hours--on "Ceramic" which is 2:30) should I bisque again? Still figuring out how to create a good bisque program that burns the organics out.
This morning I'm trying a new "program" (I am the program--wake up, kid, time to turn the dial again...) Started at 10:00 position and moved up to 8:00 two hours later, then two hours later to 7:30 in order to create a slow rise in temperature. An hour later moved to "Overglaze" (5:30) where we'll sit for another hour and a half before ramping up to Ceramic (2:30). Hoping to get a nice long burn at the 200 degree rise per hour you recommended. Probably time to invest in a pyrometer so I know what its really doing, huh?
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JohnS--what a pain--I hope its a simple fix! I did visit Skye--rode a bike from Glencoe (worked at the Clachaig Inn at the time) up to Fort William, caught a ferry and biked around the island and you're right--not much rain. Made the mistake of attending an INDOOR piping competition and had my ears blown right out! But mostly I enjoyed the hills and the coastline--high cliffs and lots of basalt. Gorgeous.
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John S--I've had the same problem with the manual you have--it tells you something quite different from what actual, experienced potters are saying about firing. That's why I'm hanging out with the pros on this thread! (Sorry guys, but it's much more time efficient picking brains here than reading the manual! And thanks for being willing to share your knowledge!)
Yes, I've concluded my kiln is a starter. When I either become more wealthy or my kids move out (don't those conditions often coincide???) I'll consider investing in an automatic. Cheers to you in Scotland. Spent 6 months there in 1986 and loved it, rain and all. What island are you on?
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On 7/29/2020 at 10:16 AM, K S said:
I really like my Duncan Teacher Plus. Question: For bisque and glaze firing, I start the switch at the 10:00 position, even though no markings are there. I turn the switch to 8:00 position two hours later, 6:00 position two hours later, etc. I keep the toggle at Low Manual. My witness cones from the top, middle and bottom shelves are all the same. Sometimes I do a drop hold on a glaze firing to heal pinholes. Do any of you have a better firing schedule?
K S--I think I may try your firing schedule--this is my third attempt at a bisque firing with my Teacher Plus and each time the sitter drops much earlier than I expect and I'm left wondering if all the organics have burned off. First was an empty kiln, second had only a few pots and a single setting (about 3:00) and those two firings lasted only 4-5 hours. This time I used the schedule Smokey 2 posted above (one hour at 9:00, two hours at 5:30 (which my kiln has marked as Overglaze) and then the rest at 3:00, which my kiln labels Ceramic. It shut off after 7 hours total. My model doesn't have a toggle and has only one dial. I want to get this dialed in before I start messing with glazes!
So I guess I need to keep playing around. My witness cones were pretty floppy on the upper shelves but nicely arched on the bottom one, so it looks like I'm getting heat pooling higher up. That kind of result is consistent between firings. Don't know how I'm going to balance things with only one control.
I was particularly interested in what you called a "drop hold". Can you explain what that is, and how it works?
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On 12/29/2020 at 7:36 AM, Smokey2 said:
Years back I had one of these and as luck has it I found the images I used to sell it on Craig's list.
Ignore the the decal markings on your kiln and take a look at the image. If you look closely you will see some pencil marks and notice the top decal markings is slightly different than the bottom markings
Bisque firing (^04)
1) Set your dial to low for one hour
2) Then set your dial to around 6:30 (Med) for 2 hours
3) Next set your dial to around 9:30 (High) until the sitter dropsGlaze firing (^6)
1) Set your dial to low for one hour
2) Then set your dial to around 6:30 (Med) for 1 hour
3) Next set your dial to around 11:00 (Hi-Fire) until the sitter dropsAs you get to know your kiln you will fine tune your firing settings
So, after looking closely at your photos and going through your directions, I realized the dial runs counter clockwise, but I think your written directions are intended to go clockwise (that's what 6:30 and 9:30 are meant to represent, yes?) But....do you perhaps mean 5:30 and 3:30? Just want to clarify.... thanks!
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3 hours ago, neilestrick said:
IMO, these Duncan kilns are not worth the cost of repairing them to original condition, especially since the systems don't seem to perform as well as they should. The simplest solution would be to wire all the elements directly to the power cord and plug it into a wall mounted digital controller. The other option would be to take out all the original controls and rewire them with typical lo-med-hi switches. Unfortunately, those solutions require either a good knowledge of kiln wiring or a fair amount of money.
Neilestrick--I guess I should be glad mine doesn't have the 2 in 1 switch.... Now I have another question which your answer above has inspired: I have the carcass of another Duncan kiln--in its day it ran 50 amps and was a manual kiln sitter; its actually a 7 sided thing, a bit smaller than the Teaching Kiln. I inherited it free from a friend who was cleaning out her garage and only learned when she delivered it that the cone sitter and switches were gone--all it had was the switch housing (rusty) and a pretty decent power cord. (You get what you pay for, apparently!)
But the bricks is pristine! I've wondered what I could do with it--is it possible to put new elements in it and wire it to a digital controller as you suggested above? The guy who repaired the Teaching kiln I now have was averse to trying that; he was afraid of liabilities or something legal like that. XD Anyway, I am interested in hearing your opinion, O noble kiln sensei!!
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2 hours ago, Mark C. said:
A plus moment sound more like a hallmark greeting card. I guess now with automation controls all that is behind us.
Unless you're like me and picking up the kilns people abandon when they upgrade to those fancy new Skutts!
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3 hours ago, Mark C. said:
Are these kilns made only for The Plus teachers?? Maybe thats a new cert level?
If so, I am definitely in possession of contraband!
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That is really helpful--thanks! As a newbie I haven't really had any idea of how a kiln like mine functions--there was no label with arrows saying, "This is how you bisque!" ;0)
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Awesome! Thanks so much for helping me chase this down! Will fire it up again in a few days when a few more pots are ready, and will keep you posted.
One last question. The pots I fired before-- would it be advisable to fire them again to ensure all the organics have burned off, or should I let them be? Would they perhaps get too hardened if bisqued again?
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10 hours ago, neilestrick said:
@Catatonic The switch is just an infinite switch. According to the Duncan manual, when you turn it on, it will go on low for 2 hours, then switch over to whatever cycle you've set the dial to. Overglaze is like medium, Ceramic is like med-high, High Fire is full on. Try this: start with the switch off, push the power button on the sitter, turn the switch to Overglaze and let it go 4 hours, then switch to Ceramic for 4 hours, then to High Fire until it's done. It may shut off on the ceramic setting.
Are you talking about the dial that sets the firing cycle when you say to start with the switch off? Because there is no other switch. I've attached a photo to illustrate. If you aren't referring to the manual/automatic toggle switch that other Teacher Plus kilns have (which mine does not) then would you say its okay to change the setting in the middle of a firing cycle? ( I am half expecting you to say, "Hmmmmm....that's weird. Never seen one like THAT before!)
Should I stay in the age of dinosaurs, or move to the space age...
in Equipment Use and Repair
Posted
I searched high and low on YouTube for videos of people making repairs on RK2's and I have only found one person working on my specific model (other RK models have a different configuration). Considering of the investment of time, not to mention the cost of tools and parts, I'm thinking I want to just go full princess and get myself a new wheel. 😁. Ready to step out of the dinosaur life (at least in my pottery).