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EKasse

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Everything posted by EKasse

  1. i had greenware sitting around for well over a decade. they survived a trip when i moved house and when i finally got the kiln plugged in, they fired perfectly as if i had made them only a week or so ago :-)
  2. Hi everyone - can anyone please help me work out how to paint with underglazes onto bisc ware - how to stop the paint brush from dragging and sticking to the pot? Is there something I can add to the underglazes (i'm using standard ones from ceramic suppliers - like Amaco/Scarva) to help them flow better. Ideally I'm trying to pain very thin lines smoothly. I've got lots of different brushes to help however the dragging and sticking really doesn't help and i'm sure there's various things i could add to help with this but there's so many to choose from i get confused! Can any
  3. will do! but i suspect this will have to wait until next year when the weather warms up a bit :-)
  4. loads of great methods here - thanks so much for taking time to reply! i'll give them a go
  5. Hello! I've got about 4 large solid lumps of bone dry clay, approx. 4 or 5kg in weight each, which I'd like to reclaim. They dried out this summer when I turned my back on them for 5 minutes and hadn't double wrapped them. V annoying. Anyway, does anyone have any hints and tips about how to reclaim them? Do I need to invest in a good sledge hammer? Any suggestions much appreciated! thanks
  6. Thanks Callie - I had watched that video yesterday, hence my question about whether it affects the final outcome of a glaze. Her videos are brilliant. So simple and well explained. A fantastic resources
  7. ahh thanks everyone for your replies. fab!
  8. Hello everyone - epsom salts seems to me to work like magic to me. Got some slip or glaze that's too runny, add some epsom salts and voila it's fixed! Stupid question time - does it affect the final effect of a glaze / slip etc? ie: is it possible that too much epsom salts can effect the final outcome of a glaze? I've not really experimented much with this magical stuff - can it help glazes in other ways? Any help/advice much appreciated thanks!
  9. thanks for this - i'll give it a try! i assume it's cone 6?
  10. sorry bit bonkers busy at my normal job - i'll dig it out
  11. thanks for the replies. i guess i'll just need to keep tinkering with the glaze
  12. Hi there I've tried many different turquoise lithium glazes (from the John Brit cone 6 book) and from various other sources including Glazy. However i have a real problem with crawling/pitting. Test tiles are good but anything larger i'm finding these lithium glazes to be so sensitive and i'm at the point of giving up. Is this a well known issue with lithium glazes? I've tried spraying, dipping and pouring but still have the same issues. I also make sure that the pots are dust free before i glaze them. Would controlled cooling of the glaze firing help? Are there any other
  13. thanks everyone for your recommendations - very much appreciated
  14. Hi everyone - I'm looking to get a new spray gun. There's lots out there to choose from so i'm a bit overwhelmed at the moment. What specifics should I be looking for? Can anyone recommend a specific gun that works well with glazes? I'm in the UK. Many thanks
  15. ooooh that's very helpful! i'll give that a go - thank you
  16. Afternoon everyone I'm looking into experimenting with the following techniques: brushing my glazes onto bisqueware and dipping/spraying 3 or 4 layers of glazes. From my reading and practice i think it might be helpful i think to add something like CMC to the glaze - to help with brushability and to help prevent crawling. However I can't find a UK supplier of the stuff. I also have heard of V Gee Gum - again - can't find it in the UK. Can anyone suggest any alternatives? I've been researching what UK suppliers have (pottercrafts/Scarva/CTM etc) but am now completely confus
  17. i've finally got round to glaze firing a sample and it's now a lovely warm yellow - completely different to it's colour on bisqueware :-)
  18. thank you! thought that would be the case but i thought i should ask the experts :-)
  19. Hi everyone, I've made a yellow slip using my current clay body with (i think) about 10% yellow stain. I can't quite remember. However I fear that i haven't put quite enough stain in as it seems quite pale in colour (it should be a sunshine yellow - but its much paler than that). Is it possible to add in some more stain to the mix? Would i have to water it down and re-seive the slip in order to mix this well? Or will i have to chuck it all and start again? Any advice much appreciated! thanks
  20. Bill - sadly that link doesn't work - but thanks for finding it for me :-) I am pretty much self taught and have had a 10 year hiatus thanks to children etc, so i've just started again. Previously i had been working with cone 8 - 10 glazes and although it took me a while of experimenting i found a few glazes that worked really well for me. Someone once told me that soaking at the top temperature was a good idea for pinholing - i tried it and it appeared to work. However since then i've been experimenting with cone 6 and i'm really disappointed with the results. I'm thinking of going back
  21. It's the TC1800 - http://www.rlkilnservices.co.uk/controller_manuals/Studio 1800 Manual.pdf - i've just had another read through the manual and can't work out if i can slow the cooling with this controller. i'm pretty sure i can't. i would be delighted if i could be told otherwise!
  22. Thank you Bill Thank you Bill for this reply and for the glaze recipe suggestion - looks exactly what i'm after. I'm experimenting with Cone 6 glazes at the moment. Can i ask - Marcia's Matte - i cant find this on Glazy - do you have the link please? As for the pinholing/cratering - so you don't think it's got anything to do with the speed at which the glaze cools? thank you :-)
  23. Hello - hope someone can help my query. I have a feeling my kiln is cooling way to quickly. I have a very basic kiln controller for my electric top loading kiln (potterycrafts). This does not allow me to control the rate of cooling at all and I've noticed that my kiln cools quickly (from 1220c to 130c) in about 10 hours. Is that very quick? Once it reaches around the 200c mark it can then take all day to completely finish cooling. Just FYI, i do soak the kiln for about 30 mins once it hits the top temperature.. I think this affecting my glazes - I've noticed way more than usual p
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