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Tam U.

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Everything posted by Tam U.

  1. Tam U.

    4

    It's supplied as black clay so I didn't have to do anything to it. I glaze the interior and fire to maturity to make it food safe.
  2. Thank you for the welcome, Oldlady. I brush my glazes for now till I learn how to spray. I only have the commercial wax resist with no particular brand and I've only ever used it on bisque ware in the past, which worked well.
  3. Thank you Neil. Does the glaze not stick/absorb on the waxed part or is it simply easier to clean off?
  4. I do single firing for stoneware and porcelain with good results but my glazing process is a little clunky --in that I brush my glazes on because I am yet to experiment with spraying. When I'm glazing greenware I simply wipe off (with a damp sponge) any trickle on unwanted spots but this normally reveals rough surface of the clay, especially if there is grog. So can I apply wax resist or equivalent? Or glaze trickles will get absorbed regardless since the clay is still very much porous? Thank you for your help. -Tam
  5. Tam U.

    4

    It's a black clay with 40% grog , according to my German supplier
  6. Tam U.

    Single Fire AB Porcelain

    First attempt at porcelain. Relieved that the bowl came out okay from single firing; interior glaze only.
  7. Tam U.

    5

    Thank you. According to my supplier it's got 40% grog -- 0.5mm. It was a challenge for me throwing it the first time as I wasn't used to that much grog.
  8. Tam U.

    Greenware

    Pieces waiting to be glazed
  9. Tam U.

    3

    From the album: Greenware

  10. Tam U.

    2

    From the album: Greenware

  11. Tam U.

    1

    From the album: Greenware

  12. Stamping is so satisfying. Have a lovely Tuesday!

     

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  13. Your music selection makes mine feel a little juvenile -- I normally listen to AC/DC and a whole bunch of other rock music. But lately, I've only been listening to a Portuguese language podcast since I'm trying to learn the language.
  14. Makes total sense Chris, thank you. I've now placed the order for the ST315B and really looking forward to testing my new firing schedules! --Tam
  15. Thank you Neilestrick. I will most definitely opt for the ST315B!
  16. Hi Babs. Both controllers are capable of doing 1-9 segments, their only difference really is the higher end being capable of 2 ramps per segment. This is where I can't seem to find value in inputting ramp 2 when there's always the option of inputting it as another segment as long as I get to the target temp anyway. I suppose it would look like an "organised" program, grouping your ramps and all?
  17. Hello. I may have an opportunity to upgrade my old Bentrup TC66 controller and I'm now choosing between a Stafford ST315B, with 1 ramp + 1 soak per segment, or the ST316B with 2 ramps + 1 soak per segment. What are the benefits of having 2 ramps in a segment, assuming I will not be soaking the intermediate temperature before proceeding to the next segment? I mean, I can always input the second ramp as a separate segment, right? Or am I missing something? So if I choose the ST315B, my simple schedule will look like this: Segment 1: Ramp of 100C/h to 600C (end of segment 1) --don't need to soak Segment 2: Ramp of 150C/h to 1200C, then hold for xx min/hours --end-- If I choose ST316B, it would be like this: Segment 1: Ramp1 of 100C/h to 600C, Ramp2 of 150C/h to 1200C, then soak (since every end of segment has soak function) --end-- Naturally, the higher model will have more functionality but apart from having 1 segment vs 2 when programming the controller, what are the benefits I'm not realising? Thank you.
  18. Thank you Min, and also for the link. I will probably do 2 firings: one at 1200C, and one at 1150C once I've acquired the BOTZ 29020.
  19. Hello from Portugal! I've been trying to find an answer to my very specific question over the past week but I don't seem to find anything useful. I've come across the usual recommendation on Steven Hill's single firing but it still doesn't seem to apply to my predicament. So basically, I'm using just one type of clay body with the manufacturer specifically writing the following -- MIDFIRE: 1000 - 1200ºC, Dense at: 1150ºC. I plan to use my BOTZ Steinzeug Stoneware Glaze, which BOTZ marked for Cone 8-9 and a range of 1220ºC - 1280ºC (and by plan I mean it's the only glaze I have at the moment) With my limited knowledge, I'm aware that I should not fire the clay higher than its maximum rated Cone or else disaster! So, considering the above, would it be possible for me to just fire at 1200ºC as the maximum temp? Or will the glaze not mature since I'm off by 20ºC? Can I compensate by soaking longer instead? I'm using a Bentrup TC66 so I'm limited to 2 segments with only 1 ramp soak on the second segment. I'm sorry if this is a stupid question but I think I'm running out of search words for Google! Thank you so much for your input. --Tam
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