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  1. Thanks, Roberta! What fun and sophistication. I DO like her work. She gave a GREAT snippet on her process on that site. VERY enlightening. I can't wait to get it a try! <3 THANK YOU!
  2. I did take a Deb LeAir workshop this year and did learn quite a bit. Especially about terra sig, but it hasn't helped me figure out this problem.
  3. Using white Earthenware should be a key in bright colors but it doesn't seem to be mattering enough at this point. It's mostly white though.
  4. I"m wiping the wash off as much as it will come off and sometimes it even starts taking the color off beneath it! I know it shouldn't, but I'm firing to a ^04. I don't know what more I can do or what I'm doing wrong. So far, I've tried block copper wash, black iron oxide wash, thinned Amoco LUG and VUG blacks. The oxides have wiped off cleaner than the UGs but barely. I wipe until no color comes off on the sponge. Though I've used both soft rags and various softness grades of sponges. I've been using terra cotta colored and white earthenware as well as buff stoneware and I just tried paperclay which amazingly did the best for the technique but I wasn't exactly worried about bright bright color. This guy was my paper-clay and it worked. I didn't need to do any cold-papinting on his body or waves. I don't have any pieces right now that are in an UG stage or bisque for a wash. But I'll post when I do. I DEALRLY appreciate the help!
  5. SO... I've only been doing ceramics for almost 2 years now all low-fire temps at the moment. I've been suing (mostly) Amoco underglazes as well as my own mixed terra sig.. I'll do the UG or TS on the greenware, fire, go back and wash w/ an oxide for the black/brown in the crevasses after that. Fire again. Now, because the wash was dulling, should I have done another touch up of the surface w/ the UG or TS to keep the colors brighter after the oxide wash and before the 2nd firing or after the 2nd firing and go for a 3rd?? I'm having pretty bad luck w/ multiple firings so far as I have a tabletop kiln and I think it's just cooling too fast (I've been making second and 3rd firings ramp up s-l-o-w-l-y) so it's cracking pieces. At least, it's cracking earthenware, I haven't done enough stoneware multiple firings to know if that will hold up better. I'll attach a few pix of other artists work that are similar to the style/color technique I'm trying to get. I've ben so frustrated Ive been cold painting everything in chalk paints, which actually look nice on ceramics, but are so time consuming and really not what I want to be doing and prefer. The first is Sarah Saunders I believe and the second is Inna Olshansky. I did write to the latter 4 months ago and I know she got my message but she never returned my query. I don't have good luck in that area despite offering to pay them for their time or buy their work as a thanks for their help. BTW, I don't make a pest of myself though. I really try not to bug anyone. I know how busy we ALL are. The 3rd pic is one of my pieces. Mostly cold-paint unfortunately. I do have a larger kiln, but I need to have another electrical box installed to service it. So the $$$$ has slowed that down. So stuck w/ a small tabletop is where I am.
  6. Post the recipe if you want help on how to fix this. Pictures make it easier for people to help you too. I think the problem was that they suggested using reclaimed dry glaze OR stain. They just went on the assumption that everyone would use the glaze that already had flux and people would know to add flux if they were just using stain. So, my bad, of course. I did a bunch of tests and finally got it to where I had added enough flux that it fused and didn't come off. I would have liked to have posted pix of what I was looking to do, but I can't seem to get pictures to load. Sigh THANKS so much! So much to learn and so many failures just get so frustrating.
  7. Thanks, Min! Yeah, that was something I was wondering. It seemed odd that it said it was going melt into the clay on its own w/o something to actually melt. I'll add some frit. Stay tuned!
  8. THANKS for the suggestions for reading some of the Hopper books. I finally got one. I look forward to getting a few more. I discovered this technique I've always liked but never new what it was called so I've been trying to emulate it for the past few weeks. Cuerda seca. I found a recipe on a site for making my own black wax to use for the lines which was just some black stain in emulsified wax resist, but following it and then after firing, the black just came off as if like dry charcoal. I fired on ^04 earthenware bisque to ^05 ramping up at 200 per hour. What did I do wrong? the recipe called for the resist to be of a paste consistency but I can't help but think that contributed to the lack of adhesion. It's so hard to find information on this technique. Especially in english. I'm going to be firing few tests tonight of the wax resist at a few different thinner viscosities. But I was hoping that I might gain some insight from your brains. THANK YOU!!
  9. Sorry it took me a few days to get back to this. BUSY studio. THANKS everyone for your recommendations and suggestions and links. I don't mind testing per se, what I mind is trying things blindly because it costs so much $. I try to get as educated of a guess as I can but ultimately, it's blind testing and then I don't even know what I'm doing right or wrong. As said earlier, the issues I was having w/ velvet underglazes was evidently unusual. I had it consistently even though I played a little w/ the speed of ramp, went before ^05-04 and did different hold times. Still, crap-shoot for me. I think there is no way around finding a way goatee some classes somewhere. We don't have any close by me which is a problem as well cost, but I'l going to have to figure it out somehow. I'm going to have to make it a huge priority I think. Somehow. I just hate making my family sacrifice for me. In answer to a question as to who I am and where I am and what kiln I have. I'm in MN. I have been starting out w/ a Paragon E-12 (I think) tabletop, but I just got a Skutt KM1218-3 but haven't wired for it yet. My Paragon can safely go to ^04 and I have pushed to 03 a few times. Got a BFA in '92 but no ceramics experience. Did graphic design for a dozen years, transitioned to painting horse sculptures in oils for the last dozen+ years and now I'm in clay. So far, just earthenware, but I am eager to try stoneware and have 100# of it here to dive in to. I did eventually send her a message this morning to ask a few questions. Just hoping she wouldn't spend too much time, just maybe saying she uses x-oxide as a wash or something like that. Being pointed in the right direction when you feel like you're standing there playing Pin the Tail on the Donkey w' the blindfold on, sure helps to not go wandering off too far. Thanks for your willingness to help me, guys!! <3
  10. This is what I was looking for. It's really hard to know what to ask for when you don't know what to ask for, because if you knew what to ask for, you'd know. LOL I got what her site said, but what she lists is everything at her disposal, and not everything is necessarily applied to each piece and I just don't know what things make what marks necessarily. Like, are the bigger swaths of color likely a colored slip and the washes oxides? I know there's no way to know w/o actually asking her and I've tried not to. Inevitably, my own experiments will teach me things and give rise to my own look, it just helps to start somewhere. Loom at something you like and while you learn about that, you'll eventually get somewhere. Velvets are actually the first thing I started to learn with and I have quote a bit of them here. I actually had trouble w/ them rubbing off when I'd fire them on the greenware and then I'd apply a semi-watered black wash to wipe back and no matter what cloth or sponge I used, no matter how light or heavy I put pressure, I was wiping away the supposedly fired UG to reveal the clay color underneath. It was frustrating and now I recall that it was my primary reason I went to try Sig because I was hoping something else would be a bit more durable in that technique. It did turn out to be more durable, but still, some color wipes away on raised areas. Could it not be getting fired long enough? hot enough? As I said, I pique fire w/ the underglaze on it to ^04. 200 degrees an hour and hold for 10 minutes at the selected temp. It could be in how I'm firing it I'm sure. I don't know. sigh
  11. I don't even see pictures. I tried to post them but I can't even see them on the page here. I'm sorry that you do see something but they're bad. There's an upload issue. I'm all about testing, but when I don't know what to test with, it's daunting. And expensive. I'm not even sure what to ask for at the store or online what to look for. Like I said, I'm new. I've only been doing ceramics fora year and a half and that's certainly not been full time. I wish I knew so much more, I'm trying to learn. I'm reading lot, but you can only absorb what you brain can build on when it's ready to. sigh I was just hoping someone could give me a little nudge in a direction. Like use this oxide or that oxide to get this color or that like you hinted at. Use it in slip or as a wash. See what I mean? I'm so frustrated. It's also so frustrating to just test test test test. Spend spend spend spend and just not ever create art. I'm getting psyched out. I don't want to give up but I'm getting so upset.
  12. I'm new. I've been kindly encouraged to ask the questions I fear asking because I'm such a rank beginner. I'm a big believer in trying to suss out answers before I bother people w/ questions. BUT, I'm getting frustrated. I really LOVE the look Blandine Anderson gets on her pieces. I'm getting better at creating some nice textured surfaces to catch some of the stains. But what should I be using because I'm pretty darned sure the terra sig I'm using now won't work even if I water it down. Additionally, I'm so in the dark about what kind of overall stain or oxide (I KNOW I'm not even using the right terms) I should apply to get that nice wash look to bring it together and when you wipe it away, you have some still sitting in the recesses which is a look I love. Which is good for black and which for the brown? Heeeeeelp! It's not letting me attach pix so I put a link her site below.
  13. Will do! In fact, I'll go post one of them now. I am DEEPLY an grateful for finding this forum. Why I didn't until now? God only knows.
  14. I'm firing to a ^04. I use at least 2 tablespoons of stain to 1/3 cup of base. Some colors I add as much as a whole extra tablespoon, others maybe a half teaspoon more if any. I TOTALLY forgot, yes, I do add a flux into the stain mix. Ferro Frit. THANKS for that recipe. I'll give it a whirl. In addition, I'll try to add colors to my slip and see how I feel about that. That's good to know about the iron softening the colors a bit. Perhaps I shouldn't have so quickly abandoned the underglazes? Maybe I should have tried mixing some to get colors I want. I'm adept at that in paint, but as we all know, this is a bit different. One thing I thought was going to be a boon for me is Deb said she only applies one layer of her sig and it as plenty. I've been still doing 3 coats because they've needed it for most colors. I don't know how she got away w/ so little given she worked on red low-fire. There's another things Iv'e not done. She uses red low-fire so I've not even tried it on white LF. I've still not decided on what clay I like best to work with. I've only done white and red LF from Continental so far. I've got a few boxes of stonewares here to try with my thought of trying the Potter's Choice glazes in layers. I'm SO glad there are people like you guys willing to share your experiences and insight. I'm gun-shy asking people these days because I've had most of the artists iv'e asked a question here and there not give me any help. A few were kind, and I TOTALLY wouldn't ask someone any proprietary info. As I said previously, I know that people's time is precious and I try not to ask anything I would think would be complicated. Just questions like do you use a black copper or black iron stain? Things like that. I'm STILL not sure on the answer to what either of those look like for sure. The last I went in to buy some black copper oxide, they were out so I only have the black iron and haven't used it yet. I'll give that underglaze recipe a whirl too. <3 I wish I could just upload all your thoughts and experiences into my brain like in Matrix. I don't mind a learning curve, but it's so hard to do in a bubble and when you have to still keep producing product to sell. THANKS GUYS!
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