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David Woodin

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Everything posted by David Woodin

  1. "Clay and Glazes for the Potter" by Daniel Rhodes probably has what you are looking for. There is also another book that only using the percentage values. "Chinese Glazes" by Nigel Wood David
  2. No the fluxes don't have to add up to 100. You are to take a glaze and leave out the clay and Silica, if it has any, and just put in the flux material even though they may have some AL203 and SiO2 in them. Ex: Custer feldspar. The calculation on the web site is going to add clay and silica to the batch. I usually make test tiles because I want to see what happens on vertical surfaces. David
  3. You probably would do better by trying to hold the top temperature instead of cycling up and down. You can reglaze the pieces and fire again with a hold. I didn't think that clay was used in the ancient recipes. David
  4. Probably some of my materials are not up to date.. Tea using Matrix, all within limits, Green and Cooper in limits, Food safe Alumina okay, Silica too high, Insight Alumina too high SI okay MGO high KNO low B203 low. Speckles, Matrix AL okay Si on the edge of being too high, Food Safe AL too high Si on the edge, Green and Cooper B203 on the edge of being high, Insight AL and Si high B203 low MGO high KNO low. So it is best to use what you are satisfied with. David
  5. Sorry, before looking at the pictures I though you were talking about teadust. MGO will produce teadust in some glazes. The speckles glaze is on the AL/SI outer limits and B203 is quite high. Both glazes use a lot of different materials. They both could be modified so that you would not have to stock so many materials. Neither is in the food safe limits. I am not much help. David
  6. It is the talc in the glaze. David
  7. I use Matrix limits, Insight limits, and Food safe Cone 6, Cone 10 limits. Insight and Matrix allow for cones other than Cone 6 and Cone 10. I usually fire to cone 7 in the electric kiln and in the gas kiln cone 9. That way I only need one stoneware clay body. David
  8. Matrix does have the Currie grid and also you can make your own grid. I make my own grid and make the corners match the Al/Si limits for whichever cone I am firing at. Matrix also has a very good method for testing colors used in glazes. David
  9. On www.efcouk.com it shows the termocouple and read out device for your kiln , part # 99 502 41 page 11. David
  10. Assuming that you are firing thrown ware, for me this program is too slow. If I fire bisque with the bisque program, I use fast bisque no hold. If I fire with my own program , it is ramp @ 200 to 200 hold 30 minutes, ramp 300 to 1000 hold 5, ramp 250 to 1200 hold 10. step to 1680 hold 5, ramp 80 to 1830 hold 10, off. I bisque at 06. If I think things are not bone dry I use the preheat and hold10 to 30 minutes. David
  11. You will have to change the plug on your kiln to fit into the regulator, but the regulator also has the wrong plug for your UK receptacle. I would find an electrician who can help on this. You don't need a thermocouple but it will be a great help. As mentioned before the cones only show what happened after the firing. The temperature indication will give you an idea as to whether the kiln is rising or stalled or too hot. David
  12. Is it possible that you hit the reset button? If so the kiln will go back to type S and you would have to program it for a type K if that is what you now use. It is a safety factor so that if a type K is used but the controller thinks you have a Type S, it will underfire the kiln. There is also the possibility that the error code was turned off. You have to get into the options section to check this page 24, under FTH, FIC, LTde. David
  13. I have used the Currie 35 tile method quite often, but found that some of the tests were way outside the functional limits. I started making other tests inside the grid for AL/Si limits, which resulted in more good glazes. I use the Matrix glaze program to do this. David
  14. Hi Mark, Because of changes in Custer the following should be considered but I would test with 100 gram batches first. Ron Roy average Custer Insight Custer G200HP Ferro 3134 1000 1000 1000 Custer Ave 1235 1050 G200HP 990 EPK 990 1010 1010 Talc 575 575
  15. Hi Mark, All you need to do is add 990 grams of G200 HP to the batch and 10 grams more of EPK.. The new 5K batch is as follows: Ferro 3134 1000 G 200 HP 990 EPK 1010 Talc 575 Wollastonite 500 Silica 925 David
  16. This is the same formula using Custer: Ferro 3134 999 Custer 1048 EPK 1010 Talc 586 Wollastonite 510 Silica 848 Total 5001 grams David
  17. If you want to read temperature than a type K thermocouple and analog meter would help. The thermocouple you inquired about the spade lug connection would work. You could also go to where you bought the kiln and get there analog meter and thermocouple that fits this kiln. You will have to find out if you can reach the temperature you want, rapidly without harming your paste. The regulator acts like an infinite switch so that you can slow down how fast the kiln heats up by changing the pulses of current to the kiln, but would require babysitting if you have to follow a ramp to temperature. I
  18. Order the spade lug connection for the thermocouple, actually you only need bare wire to connect to the controller, make sure the red wire of the thermocouple goes to the minus input #5. If the power wiring to your kiln is larger than 18 to 26 gauge than you will need a relay because you will not be able to connect directly to the output terminals because the wire will be too big. That is why I suggested using a relay. David
  19. The SYL-2352 P would work well for you except you cannot plug directly or wire into this controller. Its relay output is for 7 amps max your kiln comes with a 13 amp plug and cord. You will need an external relay plus a high temp. type K thermocouple with extension wire, a box to install every thing into and a receptacle for the kiln to plug into and a cord with plug to plug into the wall. Why go to all this trouble when the KCR2 controller for this EFCO 110 kiln does it all for you. Doesn't the college or university offer some help in money to pay for this? David
  20. The sensor itself needs to be high temperature, The one that comes with the controller will not be adequate for the temp you will be working at. The controller itself will probably be adequate. The best way to go. is get a controller from the kiln manufacturer and tell them what you intend to use it for, power source etc. David
  21. If all you want to do is read temperature, go to Bigceramicstore.com The only way you can turn it off is by tripping a circuit breaker as it looks like this is 220 volts, if it is 120 volts than pull the plug. Also the max temp for 120 vac is 1742 deg F, is this enough for your tests? David
  22. The thermocouple will only go to 757 deg F and the relay is only pilot duty so you have to have another relay controlled by this pilot duty relay. You need to find the amperage of the kiln first. Most ceramic stores will have a type K thermocouple that will work for you. David
  23. The timer and relay is supposed to pulse the middle section every 60 seconds. The elements themselves are never connected directly to the power from the kiln setter. The elements are controlled by the infinite switches or timer/relays which receive power from the kiln sitter. You will have to check each infinite switch and the timer/relays. If any elements are directly wired to the kiln sitter then their is a mistake in the wiring. Hopefully you can contact someone at Paragon. David
  24. Did someone try to install a controller for this kiln? The Paragon web site doesn't show anything but infinite switches. Did you buy the kiln from Paragon? More information is needed for this kiln and if it was modified then Paragon isn't responsible for it. You mentioned 2 cycle control?? David
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