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dolly

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Everything posted by dolly

  1. Hi there what would be the best clay for ovenware I have E S original ES/55 stoneware would this clay be ok to withstand the heat in the oven, also I have CWE earthenware which I'm not using it fires too 1160c could I treat this as a mid temperature clay and would it be vitrified

    1. Marcia Selsor

      Marcia Selsor

      this section is for "status" Ask technical questions under topics, like Clay and Glazes.Helps keeping topics searchable. Also, for clay types, many will not know ES ES 55 . Best to specify company source and a chemical breakdown if available. Earthenware is not a midrange clay.

       

  2. Just put my pieces in the kiln programmed it to 1100 . going to take it slow . babysitting the kiln , then glazing at 10.60. then waiting to see if there's any crazing. in the next few weeks.fingers crossed . if that fails going down the silica route. did order some stoneware . only 2 packs. so not broken the bank. will play with that at a later date, going to concur the earthenware first. and chilly I'm from Southend , I ordered this particular clay from Castree . but my glaze is from clay cellar. but do like to visit Brickhouse. unfortunately they don't deliver. thanks for all your advice very much appreciated .
  3. thank you will give that a go will have to get some silica though, hav e spoken to the supplier , he advised me to fire my bisque higher 1100 and fire my glaze 1060 so going to try that also ordered some stoneware going to give that a go. as he said matching glazes for stoneware is a lot more forgiving here's hoping, thank you
  4. hi there Don't understand do I add silica to the glaze , I think I will have to study Glazes , didn't want to go down that path as science and me do not get on lol. thank you for your help all. just got to go back to the basics.Pottery is a love hate relationship with me at the moment. want to walk away from it , but have got so near to what i want to achieve .never had a problem with crazing when first starting out , achieved and overcome so many other things . I know i should change clays and go with stoneware ,but i want the vibrant colours eathernware gives me , just need my creation to hold water.but my heart sunk when i went to arts in clay and saw even the professional had crazing going on . so i think what chance do i have . when i finish a piece i always put water in it to see if it's watertight , and will hold and be a usable object. the science behind all this glaze preparation is of no interest to me , all i want is a glaze that seals my work. I've got to many other thing with clay that excites me throwing altering designing firing painting and seeing my pieces come to life. it's a passion that I can't walk away from and at time wish i could. does my head in . thank you all for your input nice to speak to people that have the same love for ceramics. my Husbands Eyes glaze over when I even attempt to talk about pottery.
  5. Earthfan you just said what I've been thinking just like the vibrant colour i get with the earthenware. I looked at a super Kiln yesterday at the show , when i mentioned i worked in earthenware. He looked at me in disdain. I think he must have been a clay snob .
  6. thank you for your replies. the glaze is a earthenware glaze powder which I mixed up myself. this glaze was fine and had no grazing. but i changed my clay distributor, that I think that's where my problem started . I wondering If I should fire my Clay to 1100 or higher then fire the glaze 1060 because I know it's not the glaze at fault here. I have 20 x packs of this clay . feeling worried . I'm not familiar with making my own Glazes , and it's not a thing I really want to get into. too much science. just want a a glaze to fit this clay. I throw pots on the wheel then alter them sculpting all manner of subject. which are usually vases so need to be watertight , So the clay is not all uniform thickness. do you think that could be the problem. all my pieces are dry when I fire .went to a big pottery show at the weekend and was shock to see pots at £450.00 with crazing on them tut tut . Will take a look at previous post on crazing as advised thank you
  7. Hi there I'm wonder if anyone can help me , I've researched crazing problems in firing think I've tried most of what I have gleaned of Internet and library book, now at the end of my tether. My problem being I am painting the piece in greenware with velvet underglaze firing my cwe white earthenware to 1060 which was a recommended temp.by supplier. taking the firing up slowly around 10 11 hours. waiting for kiln to cool down . checking painting ok on piece and touching up anything that isn't . glazing the whole piece stilting . firing at 1060 which takes around 8 hours . come out the kiln perfect . few days later ping.not all pieces . only half. . I was recommended to thin my glaze which I have. still crazing. rub glaze over the crazing and refire some are successful some aren't . any suggestions please ann
  8. Hi there I made porcelain dolls for many years . mine were made from porcelain but be aware they shrink significantly when fired , if your making multiples then buy bells french bisque i warn you it is expensive. cast them but they do need to be hollow so wait 5/10 minutes then empty. if they don't easily flow out get a straw and blow gently into the mold and that will shift the excess wet slip. make holes at the top of the limps and holes in the body so you can string them together with cord elastic . thread cord through pull elastic quite taut then insert a cocktail stick with glue and push in tightly might need more then one cocktail stick make sure its secure and cut excess off. obviously these pieces need firing but must make holes when the clay is in greenware stage lol. alternatively you could use earthenware and can use flesh coloured paint. and you wouldn't get too much shrinkage , hope that helps good luck ...ann
  9. Too much of a risk, when you put so much into your work, and I can't be sure that any of the plaster has got into it , so think I will have to say a fond farewell to it ....
  10. Hi there... I'm pouring molds and using earthenware slip. can i reclaim the trimmings by letting them dry out adding water. then using it as clay for example press molding and applying to a thrown pot, with magic water. or could i just knock it back up into a pouring slip and add diffloculant wrong spelling I know . hope you know what I'm talking about,cos I'm not sure if I do,I've also got a earthenware clay and the slip can I throw the dry trimming in together and make a clay, for press molding lol any help would be appreciated...
  11. what a lovely video something you can keep forever ..... And both being interested in each others craft is a gift in itself... thanks for sharing
  12. Hi all so i can stack my earthenware so it's touching, I have a controller on my kiln , so can i still stack with the controller set to right temp. sorry for being a bit green, but a newbie to earthenware, when i made dolls many years ago i had to stack the kiln with sand and each piece had to be separate cos they would stick to each other.do i need to use the sand in my kiln still or just bat wash my shelves . and if i do decide to go into stoneware i can also stack lol ...
  13. wow i have a hair salon in my garden my husband ran a pipe out from our water had our plumber in and he connected a shower unit and have a small tank outside dug into the ground , and a pump, which pumps the water into our drain, and that didn't cost the earth to have done, my husband just hoses it out now and again, cos i won't lie it does get a build up of soap and gunk. but otherwise pretty good, we lagged the pipes and just buried them slightly in the ground, what a fab studio that would make, but business comes first ....
  14. I bought the wire from my pottery supplier can withstand the heat. yes I think i will drill a hole in him just to cover myself. and wait so i'm sure he's dry. then say a little prayer whilst he's being cremated or created thanks for all your replies ...
  15. thanks for replies might have a go see what happens ......
  16. I use Keramicast never had any problem with this plaster , and it's strong absorbent I've got moulds down the garage 13 years old that we're made from Keramicast and still pourable today. hope that helps.....
  17. thanks yes I will make sure he's bone dry b4 I fire him , I was just worried about the wire, but needed something to connect him to a perch when he's fired cos he's going to be pretty heavy....
  18. I'm sculpting a parrot with earthenware clay, I've hollowed it out and fixed the high temp wire through it's body and have 2 wire running down the parrots legs for he's perch. should i make some holes in him for the air to flow through and will he be ok to fire , grown quite attached to him lol anyone got any suggestions please ...
  19. Hi there has anybody had a go at making under glaze pencils, was thinking of having a go. or is it more trouble then it's worth......
  20. Hi all. Has anyone made under glaze pencils and is it worth the effort,or just purchase them . thinking of having a go,
  21. No AnnaM I was thinking of using stoneware firing to maturity then velvet under glazing on a low temp , oh I don't know really think I'll wait til i go to Stoke on Trent and see what's on offer there lol, thanks for you advice just keep on experimenting ...
  22. thank you so much , i'm not into the science of all these different mixes, and would take me forever to get all the info in my unsponge like brain lol, I think your right going onto stoneware, the better option for me. but i was thinking if i fire the stoneware to maturity could i under glaze the items then fire them on a lower temp so not to loose the colours , means i would have to fire 3 times tho. I am very new to this type of clays, as i was used to porcelain.in the past. my love of ceramics is purely sculpting making moulds painting them , the clay and the firing thing is just a necessity. does that make me a bad person lol.
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