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Wyndham

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Posts posted by Wyndham


  1. I saw a beautiful blue, white  speckled glaze on one of the FB groups The Japanese potter said the glaze is called "Ruri" with a small amt of "Sanga" added. It looks like a c10 reduction Temoku with 8% extra dolomite( which gives yellow specks) but no iron. Maybe replaced by cobalt. I Googled "Ruri" and found several examples but no ref to a recipe.

    Hope someone here has heard of this glaze. Thanks Wyndham


  2. Great,

    1290                                      16.36%     The frit number is 1290 it has only 4 components  NaO .50  Cao .50  B2O3 1.00 and silica 2.00

    Custer feldspar                  18.39

    Dolomite                               17.55

    whiting                                      2.50

    EPK                                          16.85

    Silica                                         23.95

    Titanium Dioxide                    3.42

    Cobalt oxide                                .74

    Iron Ox                                          .02

    NiO                                                 .28

    It's a variation of float blue I'd like to test. The frit has thrown me off as could not find a substitute

    Thanks for any help Wyndham

     


  3. I have a frit that I can not find a substitute for. I have also never understood unity formulas as well. I'm hoping someone cal help translate this back to raw materials

    The frit number is 1290 it has only 4 components  NaO .50  Cao .50  B2O3 1.00 and silica 2.oo

    Am I guessing correctly that 1 part borax i part whiting and 2 parts silica would be some thing close to the frit or is there a better set of ingredients to use

    Thanks

     


  4. I've ventured back into porcelain for some clay self abuse. I'm trying  highwaters p10 cone 10 and running into an old problem. I use masonite bats for my c10 stoneware with no problem running cut wire after turning. After making sure there's no water around base and making a clean trim line before cut off, P10 is re attaching and when it  releases taking chunks of clay at the foot. These are old 8x8 in drop in homemade bats for small pieces and mugs.

    The porcelain is for crystalline serving plates(cracker,cookies and such)

    If I continue with porcelain, should I pour some plaster or ceramical bats to give even drying and release times or make new Masonite 8x8's and add a water seal.

    The drying from the outside of the foot is where the problem is. A drying/damp  box is not a practical at this time

    Thanks for any thoughts Wyndham


  5. I recently had a fellow who wants a Tanjene (sp) a middle eastern cooking  vessel that can go on a gas burner with a heat diffuser metal plate  that allows a clay cooking vessel to be used on a gas stove burner. On further info, the Tanjene(SP) is earthenware and the food being cooked is a wet dish as opposed to a dry cooking dish or frying.

    How well or poorly would stoneware cooking vessels work with a heat diffuser, if at all

     


  6. A very interesting read. I have been done this rabbit hole for many years now and find there is more to go than where I've been.

    That being said, an early comment on the types of zinc white yellow and metallic. I have been gifted some metallic zinc powder which was used in making battleship gray for the Navy.

    How would one go about creating a glaze test using this material, if at all.

    I use a 50% 3110 26% calcined zno 23% sil and a pinch of epk. peak temp 2300f w/5min hold

    Looking forward to trying something new just rewired my kiln

    Thanks Wyndham


  7. This is just a FYI. Star Ceramic supply in Star NC has a native high fire red clay called "East Fork", a clay mostly composed of a Catawba clay from upper NC clay used for generations for folk potters of the area. It burns dark brown in reduction, sandy and throws very well. It might be something worth looking into.

    post-31016-0-73873900-1492127386_thumb.jpg

    post-31016-0-73873900-1492127386_thumb.jpg


  8. I was thinking about making a gloss white c6 with enough magnesium aka dolomite or talc to have both a white(w/zircopax) and a lavender w/ a touch of cobalt carb. Any idea how much mag carb is needed to shift cobalt to a pale lavender, maybe a shade of lilac. 

    I have someone who wants  a coffee mug in that color but I hope not to have to use stains to get it.

    Thanks Wyndham

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