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Karen B

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Everything posted by Karen B

  1. Clay is leather hard, so I will sign as soon as wax sets. Thank you
  2. @neilestrick, I am having trouble with my wax when I attempt to sign like that. The wax chips when I write my name, and signature is a mess. Perhaps because my wax is old. Or maybe I need to use the melting kind rather than the jarred liquid wax?
  3. The manual should be updated for the Genesis. For such expensive and sensitive equipment it seem just negligent of L&L not to have an update.
  4. Old Lady, thanks for the suggestion. I will call Jim Bailey on Monday. Mark C, I will check out the PPugger Dies, Thanks Neil, yes, I did look at some, but at this point, I'd rather use what I have. Also, thanks all for the heads up about the pressure issue, and it is an issue according the Shimpo tech person, Their dies are almost all open. I am thinking that since I would be screwing the die into the exit, I could put a small nut under the screws so clay could spew out the sides of the die. And maybe making the circle an oval will also leave room to drill holes aroun
  5. The augers stops well behind the exit opening. So with the u bolts, I wouldn't need a bridge. Is that correct? Thanks Min.
  6. Thanks Min for that insight. I called Shimpo and asked if I could get a blank die with just the screw holes drilled. They will call Japan and get back to me. She was concerned that the pressure might ruin the machine. I had looked at the die they sell and the whole plate is coverd with shapes. I asked her if the clay didn't heal back after going thru their die. She said it did stick together but was possible to peel apart. . . Thanks Hitchmss, love what you made, but I only do woodworking on the side, no tools or experience in metal. Thanks for the pics. I understand better what I am dea
  7. Thanks for your take Neil. I have not talked to Shimpo. I will do that. The tube would be 2.5" and prob 3/8th wall. I'm figuring it to be as big as I can to reduce the pressure. The opening of the pugmill is 3 6/8" width.
  8. Please search this title, Large Flat Pieces Cracking During Glaze Firing, there are many answers there that may help.
  9. I am considering paying North Star Equipment a lot of money to make a custom extrusion plate for my Shimpo NRA-04 pug mill. Prob well over $100+. What I need is a die to make a simple hollow form so I can easily extrude 100+ tubes for glaze testing. I want a tubular form so I can see the difference between the glaze on the inside of a form and the outside of a form. (In case you were wondering.) They offer plastic and metal. It would have the three screw holes as you can see in the picture below with sinkholes for the screws. Looking online, I see that Shimpo has a couple of dies
  10. Yes, I just now see the pin. I didn't previously as that side of kiln is towards the wall. So now I know. The kiln is 18" from wall in the corner of the room. I didn't like opening it beyond verticle because it doesn't seem to be weight assisted as it goes back, and would bang into the wall upsetting the alignment. But now that I know that it is supposed to go back, I can ease it back to it's intended stop point. At that point, there is no way it would fall forward, but I will use the pin. It is just extra effort to get it to that point and to close it till it gets to the weight assist poi
  11. I have a 10 cu ft L&L Kiln. It has a spring supported top for easy opening. The problem is, it has no catch to hold it securely opened. I have to use a lot of energy to make sure it doesn't fall closed, or fall backward. I seriously miss the door rest that was on my former Skutt. Am I missing something? What can I do to secure it? Thanks, Karen
  12. Marcia, when you have time, could you post a picture of your coils? I would greatly appreciate it. Karen
  13. Hi Jojess, I am going to say grog, (because that is what I use), in place of sand, (what you use). When I have grog stuck to the back of my plates, I rub the backs together and it comes off. Or I can use any fired flat bottom to rub off anything that sticks, like grog or kiln wash. The grog should be thin to avoid unevenness. I do leave the grog on my kiln shelves, however, I do rub the sides and bottom with a clean dry green scrubby before placing in the kiln to avoid any stray grains. I don't know if you saw it, but I described how to apply the grog to the shelf above. Hi Karen, t
  14. Hi Jojess, I am going to say grog, (because that is what I use), in place of sand, (what you use). When I have grog stuck to the back of my plates, I rub the backs together and it comes off. Or I can use any fired flat bottom to rub off anything that sticks, like grog or kiln wash. The grog should be thin to avoid unevenness. I do leave the grog on my kiln shelves, however, I do rub the sides and bottom with a clean dry green scrubby before placing in the kiln to avoid any stray grains. I don't know if you saw it, but I described how to apply the grog to the shelf above.
  15. Karen B

    3mugs

    Love your mugs!
  16. A word about putting grog (or sand) on your kiln shelves. I found that it doesn't need to be more than a thin coating. The easy way to get an even thin coating is to hold your hand about a foot or more over the shelf and sprinkle as you move over the entire surface. Of course you are far away from anything that doesn't need grog on it! Since putting grog on my kiln shelves, I have had no cracking.
  17. From the album: 2015

    Standard 112 clay, cone 6 ox
  18. From the album: 2015

    Standard 112 clay, cone 6 ox
  19. Karen B

    YOY Bowl

    From the album: 2015

    Standard 112 clay, cone 6 ox
  20. One of many hormones that are released when pregnant loosens joints, so care is needed with pressure and weight. All the best! ( I have 2 "babies" age 18 and 19)
  21. Karen B

    Some Pots

    Samples of the different pots I have made.
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