Elmoclayman

Okay, so the first firing went pretty well.  The reduction worked well and it got to the correct temp...eventually.  I think I started at a lower temp in the morning than I used to with my old updraft kiln.  Therefore, it would take longer to get to Cone 10 by the end of the day.  So, I'll have to see how the next firing goes. 
Do I need to do a "Strike" at the end?   During a reduction firing in my updraft kiln, once the kiln got to 2350F,  I would close the flue almost completely for about 20 min. and this helped the reds and rutile glazes really mature and come out better.  I didn't do that with the downdraft kiln and the reds and rutiles came out really well.  Is this typical of a downdraft kiln?
Thanks for all the advice and help

Okay, so the first firing went pretty well.  The reduction worked well and it got to the correct temp...eventually.  I think I started at a lower temp in the morning than I used to with my old updraft kiln.  Therefore, it would take longer to get to Cone 10 by the end of the day.  So, I'll have to see how the next firing goes. 
Do I need to do a "Strike" at the end?   During a reduction firing in my updraft kiln, once the kiln got to 2350F,  I would close the flue almost completely for about 20 min. and this helped the reds and rutile glazes really mature and come out better.  I didn't do that with the downdraft kiln and the reds and rutiles came out really well.  Is this typical of a downdraft kiln?
Thanks for all the advice and help

Downdraft kilns are generally easier to fire, fire more evenly, and are more efficient.

I have a Soldner Mixer and  Peter Pugger and will be getting new kilns.  But the storage shelves I have are OLD desks and boards held up by larger blocks of wood that are rotting.  So I am looking for ways to store my Kiln Posts and shelves.  Also , dry storage for Kiln wash and raw materials, ( EPK, Silica, Feldspar, Bentonite, Ball Clay).