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ThruTraffic

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  1. Background:

    • I've done Obvara with the traditional flour/sugar/yeast mash before.
    • Recently I heard of a potter who was using whiskey mash for some unique results. That's all the detail I received so I thought I'd give it a try so I ordered a whisky mash kit off Amazon and yesterday I read the directions to find out that to mix it the way a distiller might basically takes kitchen equipment and cooking processes. I don't have that available in my RV. :-)
    • I have seen videos of the traditional mash with an addition of a can or two of beer but I don't see any significant (if at all) difference in the results.

    Question:

    • Has anyone used whiskey mash for obvara and can you tell me how you prepared the mash? 
  2. 3 minutes ago, Jeff Longtin said:

    Do you know what we're looking at, btw? My guess is teabowls, thrown on the hump, and trimmed quickly. The "trimmed quickly" is probably one reason for the exaggerated texture. A grog, most likely sand, is another contributor. And lastly, probably a fairly unplastic clay body. Those three things contribute to the quality you seek.

    No idea. I just found the photo exhibited the coarseness I'm interested in. Chawan tea bowls and kurinuki objects are my general target though; some sculpture ideas too (Michikawa/ Matsuzaki type objects.

  3. Only interested in texture.

    How do I get clay like this without shipping it from Japan (in particular the top left and bottom right)? Are these clay bodies something I can create with Laguna or Highwater clays just by adding grog? Is grog the only conclusion or are other chemicals/materials required.

    If grog is the answer what type/mesh is best and what percentage is required?

    image.jpeg.ea3fe905549ecfc689570e76693d166c.jpeg

  4. 18 minutes ago, Hulk said:

    Context
    Obvara Firing: Tips from Expert Marcia Selsor (ceramicartsnetwork.org)

    I like Marcia's description.

    also
    Obvara Pottery - UP IN SMOKE POTTERY
    Obvara Firing Technique in Pottery (thesprucecrafts.com)

    My guess would be the lifetime of the mixture has more to do with the evolving fermentation that number of dips.
    Perhaps the heat imparted accelerates fermentation. 

    I’ve done Obvara firings before.

    I’d like to hear from someone who may know how the number of pots dipped may or may not affect the brew and thus the results. For example: as the brew ages through repeated drippings could one expect to see wide result variations or not.

  5. - Given a 2.5 gallon Obvara flour/yeast brew:

    ----- How many pots can one dip into that brew before the brew becomes unusable?

    ----- What changes in results, if any, can one expect during the 'lifetime' of the above brew? (Or, will the age of the brew (during a firing period, not over time (days)) have any bearing on the results?)

     

    Basically the ask is: with the above brew can I dip 25 pots, 50 pots, larger numbers of pots and still get good results? 

  6. Anyone have any experience using a terracotta clay body in saggar pit firing?

    I have some Standard 103 and 104 I'm going to use (06 to 2). The 103 fires the red I'm after. The 104 is supposedly 103 with grog. Not sure that's true as the 104 fires more brown (at cone 2). I'll be firing around 1550 to 1600 most likely).

    I'm going to do it anyway (test) but it will be about a month and I'm wondering if anyone has any experience on what results they got in the interim.

  7. On 12/12/2022 at 2:04 PM, PeterH said:

    Can you give a reference? It would be interesting to know why he chose to mix by hand rather than mechanically, sounds a bit hair-shirt to me.

    Not sure what hair shirt means but it appeared the researcher did employ the scientific method in his work. Unfortunately that video seems to have been removed. I searched my watch history and I left a comment there and the video and my comment do not exist in my YT history. Bummer.

  8. I've found very little on this topic (how to create the liquid based t-sig). If I understand correctly the Romans and Greeks didn't have/use a deflocculant in their recipes and were still able to achieve a gloss finish after firing.

    I found one YouTube video in english that was created by a researcher in Europe. I 'think' I understood he was able to recreate the Roman/Greek level of gloss without a deflocculant but at great effort by manually adding clay to water (hours of doing it slowly with his fingers). His fired results certainly did look as glossy as ancient terra sig pottery.

    Apparently (according to Wikipedia) a German chemist named Karl Fischer was able to recreate ancient terra sig but I'm unable to find any detailed evidence of how he achieved it.

    So, who know how to create terra sigillata (the liquid mixture, not the pottery) the Roman way?

  9. On 5/4/2022 at 10:26 PM, Bam2015 said:

    As a consumer, I am insulted when I am charged an additional fee for using my credit card. Credit cards are not a novelty, so sellers should expect that the majority of their customers will be paying with cc.  I feel that the establishment should build this into their expenses. I know what to expect in terms of sales taxes, but I don't want to arrive at the cash register with my credit card out and then be told that I need to pay more, which to me feels like a penalty for using my credit card.

    My two cents, which I'll be paying by credit card please. :) 

    the seller from penalizing the customer and could take away charing privileges, is this no longer true? 

    Agree 100%! Credit card transaction fees are charged to the seller and should be paid for by the seller. If you're operating a business you should have enough business education to know about COGS (Cost Of Goods Sold). CC fees should be part of those calculations and NOT a method of punishing a certain section of your customer base for using a service YOU are providing. If you don't want to pay CC fees then don't take credit cards. Nuff said.

  10. On 9/17/2021 at 4:11 PM, Min said:

    I believe B-Mix with grog is going to be much finer than 35 mesh. I'm guessing it's more like an 80 mesh. 

    I’m betting you are right. I tried to find out on Google but couldn’t find B-Mix specifications that went that deep. Searching Google for “what mesh grog for raku” the prime hit is 20 mesh. Couldn’t find that locally so went with 35. I’m going to cut back from 20%, my gut is telling me that’s just too much. Will try 10% and 35 mesh and see what happens.

    Thanks for the responses Min!

  11. Thanks Min. Here's how I do it:

    - roll out five pounds of clay

    - spread a layer of grog (Kyanite 35 mesh)

    - roll that up, slice and slam wedge

    - repeat until all the grog has been added

    - spiral wedge, then to the wheel

     

    One thing that makes me think 20% (1lb grog to 5lb clay) is too much is B-Mix 5 with grog from the store doesn't' look at all like my B-Mix with 20% grog.

  12. How much grog is best added to B-Mix for use in Raku.

    Answer = what percentage, by weight, is an appropriate amount? 10%, 20%, 35%, 50%, ?????????

    ==============================

    99% of Google hits are about adding amounts to raw materials to make a clay body. I put all the values I found into my black box and the result was 20% to the question above. I think 20% is too much but I don't know. I do know it took a heck of a lot of wedging to get a pound of grog into 5 pounds of clay and by appearance and wedging behavior it seems like its way too much.

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