jeffrey.flug Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 I am currently in contact with a restaurant that would like me to make their dinnerware. We're in the beginning stages, so I was hoping to find a little help. All of my work leading up to now has been cone 10/salt, so I am not as familiar with cone 6 glaze mixing at the moment. I am hoping someone knows a little about this, what would be a good base glaze to test out for restaurant durability? The restaurant is looking for an off-white, something in the grey color range, which I am planning on using colorants to edit a nice durable white. Any help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 I'd recommend starting with the Mastering Cone 6 glaze recipes from Ron Roy/John Hesselberth. http://www.masteringglazes.com/mastering-cone-6-glazes/glazes/ There is a tab on the link for their recipes from the book. These are tested glazes and are geared for durability and use on functional ware. There are a couple clears, ranging from glossy to satin, that you might consider, test on your clay, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 As bruce alluded to find a good strong clay body at temp and atmosphere you will be firing. then test. test test restaurant wares will have to be sturdy enough for the dishwasher and and hammer handed waiters, glaze will need to be not crazed for health inspector reasons, glaze will have to pass cutlery test. acid test , basic test. for the most part if will need to follow all the "functional" rules. there is an "american hotel china" recipe by val cushing that may be of interest if you are mixing your own clays.. what you ask is no easy task with no simple answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffrey.flug Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Thank you for the replies. I figured it is no easy task. I was considering purchasing Mastering Cone 6 Glazes, I've heard really good things about it and will do so. I plan to test test test. I don't want to hand over a bunch of easily broken wares to a restaurant. Bad things would follow. I'll get crunching then. Thank you again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 If you use porcelain you won't need white glaze but at decent clear which may be easier to test than a white glaze. You decorations could easily be made with mason stains with same porcelain slip, or washes/stains Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Came across this post that you might find helpful . . . with a great quote from Warren McKenzie. “Unlike a painting or sculpture, this work will be handled and mishandled, washed, and scraped with eating utensils. If a pot cannot withstand such treatment, it fails no matter how exciting it may appear to the eye.†~Warren MacKenzie, “Minnesota Pottery: A Potter’s View,†Ceramics Monthly (May, 1981) - See more at: http://craftcouncil.org/post/potters-journey-local-blend-business-partnership#sthash.odFbkTKo.dpuf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crusty Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 You definitely need Mastering cone 6 glazes for a project like you might take on.. Great book for functional potters and glaze durability etc. I just got done reading it a couple days ago, well worth the money... you can get the b/w edition for 25 to 30 bux... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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