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Slip Glaze, Formulation For A Specific Finish


KarenG

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I'd appreciate advice on creating a 'Slip Glaze'. I'm making Large Pots, and would like to finish them with an Antiquities look...stay with me here. LOL Imagine a pot, (I'll try and attach a recent photo), just out of an Archeological Dig, the 'Glaze' matte or semi-matte, chipped away in areas, a very light sheen, are you getting the picture? Colorwise, I'm thinking muted, and that made me think of Mason Stains.

I'll welcome any advice, or questions to clarify my direction. I also want to say I'm thrilled to find an open exchange of Creative Energy, a Community of Artists. Ok, I tried to upload a photo, no luck. Anyone have insight on uploading a photo from an iPad? And the 'Issues' continue! LOL

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You do not mention what is your firing range is, so for a general answer I would use any matte glaze or vitrfied slip in your firing range. Make sure the recipe you use has a lot of clay in it if it is to be applied to a damp pot or a lot less if it is to be applied to a dry or bisqued pot.

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Thanks for your answer. Some details I left out: I'm currently firing at Cone 10, Armstone. I'm experimenting with B-Mix w/Grog, Cone 6, not sure how well it will work on my pieces, about 24-36" tall, and 20-25#. What I'm going for is a SINGLE FIRE scenario, that's why I'm looking for information on a 'Slip Glaze'. Ok, I can see the eyes rolling out there, I'd even tell me to go with Terra Sig. . What I'm going for is is a Terra Sig kind of look, and I"d prefer not to make it.

Thanks for any and all info, ideas, questions, or info. If this has been hashed out already in another post, please send me tthe reference. :0}

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Slip glazes using something like Albany Slip are very dark, like old whiskey jugs. The substitute foe Albany is Alberta slip.Also redart clay can be used with a little flux as a slip glaze at cone 10 in a reduction.

BTW Cone 10 is not an advantage for larger sculptural pieces and they tend to warp.

 

Terra sig has zero effect in a high fire. At least there is no sheen left over cone 08.

So not sure what you are going for.

 

Marcia

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I don't think you have to make a "slip glaze". Most glazes will work when applied to greenware and many will work when applied to leather hard pieces when some clay is in the formula. You might want to try some Amaco underglazes as some of them can withstand higher temperatures and get semi vitrified to the point of developing a slight sheen.

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I have used straight red art at cone 10, and it comes out with a subtle sheen with no added frit or other flux. You could play with the sheen by adding some, if you'd like. I will say the brushstrokes are obvious, if it's applied to bisque, and adding it to green or wet ware would maybe be a good idea if you want a smoother application.

 

I work off an iPad too. Click on "more reply options," and use attach file to upload a picture from your photos.

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