multiple firings?

[CPT]

Has anybody done this before? Attached is a test piece I just did.

 

I used Duncan concepts, and basically did all my designs (base coat, details) in one firing. (Cone 6) It turned out ok, but I want the designs on top to be more vibrant. They seem to blend in with the base coat.

 

Thanks in advance.

[Chris Campbell]

If you could tell us more about the look you are trying to achieve we could help more ... Even if you can post an image of some other work that has the look you want ... Otherwise it is really hard to imagine what you are hoping to do.

[CPT]

Ok, sorry about that.

 

I am using glazes on bisqueware right now. I am layering colored glazed designs on top of each other. My fruit slices came out somewhat "muddy" which shows some of the base color underneath. I wanted my details to be more opaque.

 

Someone suggested that I glaze my piece in a base coat (such as a neon orange) at Cone 018, which will set the glaze.

 

From there, then paint my detailed desgins on top and fire at Cone 06.

 

Here is a sample piece that I came across:

 

http://img0.etsystatic.com/il_fullxfull.314295136.jpg

 

Hope that clarifies everything!

[neilestrick]

That piece looks like they used a stencil or wax to separate each color, on a white clay. The colors could be underglazes covered with a clear glaze, or separate colored glazes that aren't layered. The lack of layering is the secret to bright colors, or try majolica.

[CPT]

Thanks for the reply.

 

I think I found the solution!!!

 

 

[Chris Campbell]

That product is the same thing as liquid latex which is sold at most pottery supply places. Wax resist is cheaper, will do the same job but needs to be fired off, it cannot be lifted off ... but it will protect your white area from the colors. You also cannot glaze over it.

The plate in the image was probably done in multiple firings.Wax resist over the part you want to be white then underglaze the color. You can wax resist different parts and build up the colored areas with nice sharp lines. It is difficult to do these colors with glaze because glazes tend to move and bleed into each other ... if you want nice sharp lines use underglazes because they stay where they are applied.

[CPT]

Understood. Thanks for the reply!

 

I also think that I have the wrong glazes! Sheesh.... Duncan Opaques Underglazes are the way to go.

 

http://www.ilovetocreate.com/Howtousedetail.aspx?useid=745765fc-0baf-4bdd-84ce-6e18631381f3

[Frederik-W]

You said you did one firing ?

 

Do you mean you fired to bisque and then another "one" firing for all the rest,

or did you fire only once in total (from green stadium) ?

 

I know it is possible to fire once only, but there are some risks I've been told.

I am interested in the idea of firing once only.

 

thanks

regards

[CPT]

My teapot I did in one firing, Cone 06. When I layered my glazes, the top layer appeared runny; the details were a bit transparent.

 

I probably don't have the right glazes, so I will order Duncan Underglaze Cover Coats, which are supposed to be fantastic. When you layer colors, the layers don't show through. I will get better results with crisp edges, hopefully.

 

In the meantime, I will try a multiple firing on one of my bisque pieces, by firing to Cone 018 first, just to 'set' the base coat glaze. Then I will pull that out of the kiln, do some detail work and then fire to Cone 06. We'll see how it turns out. I used Duncan Concepts Underglaze. I also used an airbrush for the base coat; works great! My brushmarks don't show up as much.

 

Sorry I'm rambling; it's been years since I have done this as I used to teach ceramics at the High School level.

I am now getting back into my 'hobby' and it's great to get muddy again! I am hoping to get some pieces developed soon to put on my Etsy site.

 

I really appreciate everyone's suggestions and comments!

[Frederik-W]

Hi CPT,

 

I am absolutely stunned that you did that teapot in only one firing. I think you did very well.

I would like to do that, I dont care if the colours blend, in fact I would welcome it if they blend. I don't want them sharp.

I see no bubbles or cracks or flaws in your glaze on the teapot.

I posted a question about firing once recently, asking if the bisque stage can be skipped and all be done in one firing:

 

http://ceramicartsda...que-be-skipped/

 

What clay did you use and what was the recommended temperature for firing the clay?

 

So let me get it right:

You let your teapot dry (naturally in dry atmosphere) after you finished making it. (Very dry, I assume) ?

Then you painted your dry teapot with Duncan Concepts underglazes.

Then you painted it with some glaze - what glaze did you use, how many coats?

Then you fired it - how? Since you skipped the bisque, did you fire it extra slowly up to the right temperature? i.e.

anything special about programming your kiln controller ?

 

Thanks a lot

[scoobydoozie]

My teapot I did in one firing, Cone 06. When I layered my glazes, the top layer appeared runny; the details were a bit transparent.

 

I probably don't have the right glazes, so I will order Duncan Underglaze Cover Coats, which are supposed to be fantastic. When you layer colors, the layers don't show through. I will get better results with crisp edges, hopefully.

 

In the meantime, I will try a multiple firing on one of my bisque pieces, by firing to Cone 018 first, just to 'set' the base coat glaze. Then I will pull that out of the kiln, do some detail work and then fire to Cone 06. We'll see how it turns out. I used Duncan Concepts Underglaze. I also used an airbrush for the base coat; works great! My brushmarks don't show up as much.

 

Sorry I'm rambling; it's been years since I have done this as I used to teach ceramics at the High School level.

I am now getting back into my 'hobby' and it's great to get muddy again! I am hoping to get some pieces developed soon to put on my Etsy site.

 

I really appreciate everyone's suggestions and comments!

 

 

 

With Duncan cover coats or any traditional opaque underglaze that does not contain frit (Mayco Stroke & Coat, Gare Fun Strokes and Duncan Concepts all contain frit and are also know as bisque strokes in the industry), you don't need to fire to cone 018 first. When 3 coats are properly applied (without overbrushing) it will provide sharp opaque coverage regardless of whether it is fired first.

 

After applying the 3 base coats, it is helpful sometimes to use a well loaded liner brush to outline the area in the same color to ensure you have sufficient coverage all the way to the edge. This also helps with nice sharp edges. Whether you need to do this will depend on your brushing style of the base coats. Just be cautious of creating a ridge with the liner brush.

[CPT]

HI Frederick:

 

In response to the following:

 

What clay did you use and what was the recommended temperature for firing the clay?

I acutally used ready to paint bisqueware. Bisqueimports.com has a great selection as well as excellent customer service.

 

So let me get it right:

You let your teapot dry (naturally in dry atmosphere) after you finished making it. (Very dry, I assume) ?

It was dry to begin with.

 

Then you painted your dry teapot with Duncan Concepts underglazes.

 

Correct.

Then you painted it with some glaze - what glaze did you use, how many coats?

 

Yes, I used Bright Caribbean for the body/spout, then used Bright Papaya for the handle. Used 3 coats for each.

 

Then you fired it - how? Since you skipped the bisque, did you fire it extra slowly up to the right temperature? i.e.

anything special about programming your kiln controller ?

 

 

Since their bisqueware is already fired to Cone 5, I just went ahead and glaze fired to Cone 6. I have a manual kiln. I pretty much have the babysit the kiln the entire time!

I have three temp control switches; low, medium high, as well as a Kiln Sitter for small cones.

 

I prop the lid open for 1/2 hour on low, all peepholes open.

Then close the lid for 1 hour on low, peepholes open.

Then 1-1/2 hour on Medium, lid closed, peepholes open.

Then 1/2 hour High, peephole open.

Then 1/2 High, peepholes closed.

From there, when it reaches max temperature, it shuts off.

 

I start firing very early in the morning, so that it has all day to cool. Then open the next morning.

 

Thanks a lot[/color][/b]

 

[CPT]

With Duncan cover coats or any traditional opaque underglaze that does not contain frit (Mayco Stroke & Coat, Gare Fun Strokes and Duncan Concepts all contain frit and are also know as bisque strokes in the industry), you don't need to fire to cone 018 first. When 3 coats are properly applied (without overbrushing) it will provide sharp opaque coverage regardless of whether it is fired first.

 

After applying the 3 base coats, it is helpful sometimes to use a well loaded liner brush to outline the area in the same color to ensure you have sufficient coverage all the way to the edge. This also helps with nice sharp edges. Whether you need to do this will depend on your brushing style of the base coats. Just be cautious of creating a ridge with the liner brush.

 

 

Thanks, scooby! Good to know! Since I have a few pieces I used with Duncan Concepts,(as it contains frit) I just wanted to try the Cone 018. Don't let them go to waste just sitting on the shelf unfired.

 

In the future, I plan to order some Duncan Cover Coats, so that I can just fire everything at Cone 6 in one load. I hear that they are less 'runny'. It's also great for airbrushing too....I have an airbrush and its super awesome to use if you want to cover a large area quickly without visible brushstrokes.

 

Thanks again!!

[CPT]

With Duncan cover coats or any traditional opaque underglaze that does not contain frit (Mayco Stroke & Coat, Gare Fun Strokes and Duncan Concepts all contain frit and are also know as bisque strokes in the industry), you don't need to fire to cone 018 first. When 3 coats are properly applied (without overbrushing) it will provide sharp opaque coverage regardless of whether it is fired first.

 

After applying the 3 base coats, it is helpful sometimes to use a well loaded liner brush to outline the area in the same color to ensure you have sufficient coverage all the way to the edge. This also helps with nice sharp edges. Whether you need to do this will depend on your brushing style of the base coats. Just be cautious of creating a ridge with the liner brush.

 

 

Thanks, scooby! Good to know! Since I have a few pieces I used with Duncan Concepts,(as it contains frit) I just wanted to try the Cone 018. Don't want to let them go to waste just sitting on the shelf unfired.

 

In the future, I plan to order some Duncan Cover Coats, so that I can just fire everything at Cone 6 in one load. I hear that they are less 'runny'. It's also great for airbrushing too....I have an airbrush and its super awesome to use if you want to cover a large area quickly without visible brushstrokes.

 

Thanks again!!

 

[CPT]

HI Frederick:

 

In response to the following:

 

What clay did you use and what was the recommended temperature for firing the clay?

I acutally used ready to paint bisqueware. Bisqueimports.com has a great selection as well as excellent customer service.

I will also be throwing my own stuff on the wheel too.

 

So let me get it right:

You let your teapot dry (naturally in dry atmosphere) after you finished making it. (Very dry, I assume) ?

It was dry to begin with.

 

Then you painted your dry teapot with Duncan Concepts underglazes.

 

Correct.

Then you painted it with some glaze - what glaze did you use, how many coats?

 

Yes, I used Bright Caribbean for the body/spout, then used Bright Papaya for the handle. Used 3 coats for each.

 

Then you fired it - how? Since you skipped the bisque, did you fire it extra slowly up to the right temperature? i.e.

anything special about programming your kiln controller ?

 

 

Since their bisqueware is already fired to Cone 5, I just went ahead and glaze fired to Cone 6. I have a manual kiln. I pretty much have the babysit the kiln the entire time!

I have three temp control switches; low, medium high, as well as a Kiln Sitter for small cones.

 

I prop the lid open for 1/2 hour on low, all peepholes open.

Then close the lid for 1 hour on low, peepholes open.

Then 1-1/2 hour on Medium, lid closed, peepholes open.

Then 1/2 hour High, peephole open.

Then 1/2 High, peepholes closed.

From there, when it reaches max temperature, it shuts off.

 

I start firing very early in the morning, so that it has all day to cool. Then open the next morning.

 

Thanks a lot[/color][/b]