~janie Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 I use trim tape from the auto paint store. It is what they use when doing the fancy trim work on cars. I buy it in sizes of 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4". I like to use it because a.) it sticks very well, b.) it stretches and conforms to a curve very easily, and c.) a roll lasts a long time for me. The most important thing when using any tape is to clean your surface very well, then clean it again, and maybe again! That dust will inhibit anything from sticking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~janie Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Sorry my message is there twice. I tried to edit it, but it has a mind of it's own this morning. ~janie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeramicShapes Posted August 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 Just to give everyone a quick update......the red artists tape worked reasonably well. Now I just think I need a tutorial on using a wax resist. The first picture shows one that came out OK. I covered a bone dry slab with tape, cut out the text, painted on a wax resist, removed the tape and brushed with a wet sponge to get a 3D bas relief effect. The second picture shows a more delicate font and it seemed to wash away as I was using the sponge. Should I put the wax on thicker? Should I let it dry longer (I waited about 4 hours)? Should I wipe more gently when using the sponge? How deep can I reasonably expect to get? Any advice you can give would be appreciated. Thanks Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucille Oka Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 I see the work that you are doing and you are headed in a beautiful direction. I wonder if you would get a better image if you made press molds of the letters (in reverse of course) and use the tape as a register for placement or do a mold of each project, you obviously have the patience for carving. If you cut out those letters by hand, bravo! Oh about the wax, let the wax completely dry before wiping the surface. Also you can use a wax that dries harder. There are waxes that come in different hardnesses for sculpting; from super hard to sticky soft for attaching. These are used in the jewelry making and metal casting industry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted August 29, 2011 Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 Your wax is probably a water based one used for waxing feet during glazing; as you sponge away to create the relief, you are also removing some of the edges of the wax -- especially for the more delicate characters in the second photo. A thicker application of wax is not necessarily the answer. You need to use something harder than regular wax if you want to use the water removal technique. Take your time with this technique, remove some clay, then let the item dry some, then remove some more. An interative approach will produce better results and allow you to go deeper in the relief. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeramicShapes Posted August 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 Thank you Lucille......the direction I'm eventually going in is to make lithophanes, which is why I want to remove as much clay as possible. I'll definitely look into finding a harder wax. bciskepottery.....sadly, I had to Google "interative"! But now I have a new vocab word for today. You mentioned using something harder than regular wax when using the water removal technique.....should I switch back to using the shellac or is there something else that I could use? Thanks Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carr pottery Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 Thank you Lucille......the direction I'm eventually going in is to make lithophanes, which is why I want to remove as much clay as possible. I'll definitely look into finding a harder wax. bciskepottery.....sadly, I had to Google "interative"! But now I have a new vocab word for today. You mentioned using something harder than regular wax when using the water removal technique.....should I switch back to using the shellac or is there something else that I could use? Thanks Steve Frog tape for painting sticks really well to greenware. It is green and you can buy it at Lowes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeramicShapes Posted September 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 I tried the Frog tape and it didn't work for me.........but the artists tape seems to work reasonably well. I also put the wax resist on much thicker and it doesn't seem to wash away. Now if I could just work on not dropping it......this one was going to look so nice......oh well, it will give me more practice when I make a new one....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucille Oka Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 I tried the Frog tape and it didn't work for me.........but the artists tape seems to work reasonably well. I also put the wax resist on much thicker and it doesn't seem to wash away. Now if I could just work on not dropping it......this one was going to look so nice......oh well, it will give me more practice when I make a new one....... That was a pity. I hope you can reclaim the pieces. Breakage cannot be avoided sometimes. But working on a board and keeping your pieces on the board for all your working stages until ready to load in the kiln may help. I had an interest in lithophanes a few years ago but I realized that didn't have the passion for it so, I opted for sprigging. But you have the skill and talent obviously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRIB Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 here is my VERY newbie answer..... can you possibly just roll out a slab and CUT the letters from the slab? Then, of course, adhere them to your sign? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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