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About CeramicShapes

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    New York
  1. I get all my stamps made from this guy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/125778730/custom-pottery-stamp? They're plastic stamps and I like them ALOT better than the wooden ones and they're ALOT cheaper than metal ones. Here are a few pictures of ones that I recently had made.
  2. I was thinking about melting some glass frit into the crevices of this piece......do you think it's possible? The piece is unglazed low fire clay bisque. Has anyone fused glass to clay? Thanks
  3. Denice.......I was kidding about the end of potters.........then again..........."Hang on, I need to go print a Ming Vase"........but this is probably how it will be done in the 23rd century. But I think our generation is safe.....especially since they may be able to print shapes, but they certainly can't decorate them with glazes like some of the artists on here.
  4. I've been working on developing a process to make various shapes out of ceramics, so I found this interesting: http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/1050-3D-Printed-Glazed-Ceramics-Are-Back.html It's a company called Shapeways that is making intricate ceramic shapes using a 3D printer. So who thinks that it will be the death of the potter? LOL!
  5. Interesting.......and informative. Thank you.
  6. How well does a fully glazed finished piece of pottery survive outdoors in the elements? I assumed that it could survive 110 degree heat since it gets fired in a kiln at a slightly higher temperature than that. I know that it is UV stable in that it will not fade in the sun. But can it survive a -30 degree day? Or will it shatter due to micro pellets of water inside the piece when they freeze? Will one type of clay (ie. porcelain, etc.) fare better than another type? Does it matter if it is glazed on 3 sides verses 4? I've heard that some pots need to be brought in during the winter or else they will shatter, yet people make ceramic house numbers that see the elements 24/7/365. So any advice or experience would be appreciated.
  7. I thought about it Chris, but didn't see anyone else doing it.
  8. I'm new to ceramics and this forum. Most forums (not clay related) seem to have a section dedicated to feedback on finished pieces or to show your latest and greatest project. But this one doesn't seem to have that. Yes, it does have "The Gallery" but I looked at dozens of pictures that people posted and it was rare that someone actually commented on it. I tried to post a few pictures in the gallery, but it would only let me post one. Is there a different section of this forum where people seek/give critiques?
  9. Well.......I couldn't figure out how to add more than one photo.......
  10. Thanks John.........and I like your term "greenwashing"! I don't think I'll be investing in a scientific study anytime soon though.
  11. As mentioned previously, I am neither an artist nor a potter......so please forgive my ignorance. I am basically a sign maker and I am experimenting with making porcelain signs. You can find a sign shop in every town in America and they all make signs the same way......either with a printer or with vinyl or plastic. Occasionally, you'll find someone that makes wooden signs or carved granite. The problem with most outdoor signage is that it cannot endure the elements. UV stable signage is a major issue. Wooden signs eventually rot. Carved granite and molded brass signs are very expensive. Plastic and vinyl are definitely not "Eco-Friendly". So I'm trying to assemble a list of the benefits of making signs out of porcelain. I know that it is UV stable and will never fade. I know that it is strong....but there are different types of strength (flexural, tensile, compressive, diaelectric)......how do I convey that? I know that it can withstand high temperatures (I have one customer that makes industrial driers and standard plastic melts when attached to the machines because they get so hot). And everyone wants Eco-Friendly products nowadays.......believe it or not, Google just came out with a report that says G-Mail is more eco-friendly than other types of e-mail!!!!!! So, please help me assemble a list of the benefits of porcelain and let me know if I am OK to state that it is more eco-friendly than plastic. Thanks! Steve
  12. I am of the opinion that you absolutely sign and date every piece you make.......but then again, I make stamps for other potters so my opinion is a little biased! Speaking of Antiques Roadshow.......I am more confident in their appraisals when they do find a makers mark rather than when they say "in my opinion I do believe that this was made by Joe XXXX". Also, if you notice, most silversmiths don't put an actual date that a piece was made, rather, they put a symbol. So the outline of a teddy bear indicates that it was made in 2009, a duck outline would be 2010, and a giraffe outline would be 2011.........that way, YOU know when you made it, but someone who turns it over doesn't see that it was made three years ago. And if you publish the symbols on your website, someone from Idaho researching one of your pieces could confirm that you made it in 1968. I also do a lot of genealogy research and it's very frustrating when you are trying to research something.......you say to yourself, why didn't Grandma just write everyone's name on the back of this picture! Make it easy for people to confirm that you made a piece and when.
  13. I tried the Frog tape and it didn't work for me.........but the artists tape seems to work reasonably well. I also put the wax resist on much thicker and it doesn't seem to wash away. Now if I could just work on not dropping it......this one was going to look so nice......oh well, it will give me more practice when I make a new one.......
  14. Thank you Lucille......the direction I'm eventually going in is to make lithophanes, which is why I want to remove as much clay as possible. I'll definitely look into finding a harder wax. bciskepottery.....sadly, I had to Google "interative"! But now I have a new vocab word for today. You mentioned using something harder than regular wax when using the water removal technique.....should I switch back to using the shellac or is there something else that I could use? Thanks Steve
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