Jaalam aiken Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 Hi guys, I'm back! I've decided to go ahead and hook this controller up to my older Cress Kiln. I've attached a photo showing the wiring diagrams and stats of both Kilns. I wanted to double check with you to make sure I'm not missing anything important. My thought is that the Control board, the transformer, and the relays could all move over to the old Cress and work fine. Everything seems to be rated to handle more than what the Cress will be pulling. It's my understanding that if I choose to bring over a relay for each element then I shouldn't need to use a "high current contactor". But if I choose to just use one relay for all elements then I would need to purchase one. Does that sound correct? The last question I have is regarding the infinite switches currently used for each element of the Cress. Would those still be necessary if I'm using relays? Or can you just leave them and turn them on high the whole time? Jaalam W3061111_2_compressed (1).pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted October 10, 2021 Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 I would install a relay in place of each infinite switch which makes the wiring part super simple. Moving the controller and control transformer will take a bit of doing, but not hard ……. Adding one thermocouple and bring the fuse to protect the transformer, controller etc…. In the US an additional isolation relay is not required, always unplug your kiln while loading and unloading is the standard warning. I am guessing you did not reach temp in the big kiln or it took too long to trust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted October 10, 2021 Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 You can't just take the manual system out of the box and put the digital controller system in there. It may not be deep enough, probably doesn't have a heat shield and insulation, and may or may not have enough vent openings. All of these things go to keeping the electronics and relays cool, something that doesn't matter much with the manual system. You'd be far better off building a wall mounted system in its own box that the kiln plugs into. Heat will kill the relays and controller very quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaalam aiken Posted October 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Thanks Bill. Makes sense. Along with the infinite switches, do I take out the part I circled in the picture below. Not sure what thats called . I didnt try to fire the paragon because I didnt have a shelf big enough to use. But also I decided I really want to learn to fire in reduction to cone 10. I make bonsai pots and they really need to be fired to 10 anyway. So im going to turn the paragon into a gas fired kiln. This way ill have an electric and propane kiln. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaalam aiken Posted October 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Thanks for the reply Neil. I planned on taking the entire control panel box over. I will also take the heat shield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted October 10, 2021 Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 17 minutes ago, Jaalam aiken said: Thanks for the reply Neil. I planned on taking the entire control panel box over. I will also take the heat shield. I thought the Cress was a smaller kiln? Are you going to cut down the Paragon control box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaalam aiken Posted October 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Yes its smaller and I will cut it down if I end up putting it up against the kiln. If i end up setting it up against a wall or next to it I might not even worry about cutting it. The cress is so much more insulated than the paragon I am not concered about the heat. I actually had to open the box while firing the paragon because it got so hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted October 10, 2021 Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 45 minutes ago, Jaalam aiken said: Not sure what thats called . You can choose to leave or remove, it should be the sitter. I think if I were to disable it I would leave it in place and jumper the lugs it’s still a decent terminal block to manage the HV wiring. Else leave it in service as a safety and you will need to load a cone for each firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaalam aiken Posted October 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Got it. Ill let you know how it goes. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted October 10, 2021 Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Lots of unknowns here about how things will fit, but make sure you'r doing everything safely. No expose wires, proper grounding, everything safely mounted, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaalam aiken Posted October 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Will do. Appreciate everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaalam aiken Posted October 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Quick question..would it hurt to bring over the newer and bigger 50 amp chord and plug to use on the cress that currently just has a 30A nema 6-30? It would keep me from having to change out the receptacle at the power box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted October 10, 2021 Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 2 hours ago, Jaalam aiken said: Quick question..would it hurt to bring over the newer and bigger 50 amp chord and plug to use on the cress that currently just has a 30A nema 6-30? It would keep me from having to change out the receptacle at the power box. That would be fine. Make sure the breaker is the right size for the Cress, 30 amps. The Paragon breaker is too big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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