If the resistance of the elements is still within 10% of new then they're still usable. Get a kiln stand or set up some cinder blocks, oriented so the kiln sits on the flat sides and air can flow through below. If the floor underneath is not smooth and level it can be difficult to get the blocks to sit evenly. Do not put the kiln directly on the cement floor. Double check your serial plate, but as Dick said, those kilns need a 4 wire hookup rather than the typical 3 wire system. You'll need 2 hots, 1 neutral, 1 ground. The kiln pulls 26 amps and code requires a breaker that it 25% greater than the draw but no more than 50% greater, so either a 35 or 40 amp breaker is required, with the appropriate size wires, at least 8 gauge. The power cord and outlet should be a NEMA 14-50 (50 amp) because they don't make a 40 amp outlet. Most kiln manufacturers will carry the cord, or you can build your own with SEOW cable if you're familiar with doing that.
You say you have a 240V hookup for it. Be aware that the old A88B kilns used a 4-wire 120/240V hookup in which the neutral is essential. Also, kiln circuits need not only correct voltage, but also correct amperage of 125% of the nominal amperage shown on the electrical rating plate. But perhaps the hookup you have is correct? If so, carry on.
