cadenrank

How exactly do you have it wired that you're able to check it with the Fluke? Do you just unplug it and plug it into the fluke? Or is the fluke wired in too?

Oop, I found it. So for the connections from the 32856 to the pi, would be as follows: GPIO 17 (pin 11 on PI) would be connected to the terminal labeled SDO on the adafruit 32856. GPIO 22 (pin 15) would go to SCK GPIO 27 (pin 13) would go to CS GPIO 10 (pin 19) would go to SDI and then a ground to GND? and then like you said, switching the 1 and 0 in config.py, and changing the thermocouple type. Correct me if that's wrong, or if I'm understanding incorrectly. Thanks again.

This is a thread I've been lurking on for a while, and just yesterday decided to order some parts to try some things out. My goal is to use it as a way to monitor the thermocouple remotely temporarily, but eventually plan to turn it a full controller as well. My question is that I noticed that the thermocouple amplifiers listed in the original github file say Max31856, and Max31855. I can see the pinouts are different between them. I ordered the 31856 because it was one of the only ones in stock. I read a few times in here about there being differences and issues with using one or the other, and am wondering what is needed differently from the original instructions to utilize the 31856. All of the diagrams I see for it show the pinout for 31855, and while I can gather which ones are the corresponding ones, it seems like maybe there needs to be changes in code or something? Like I said, I don't have any of these parts yet besides the pi and the type K thermocouple. I plan to follow the instructions as they were written (mostly because this is the first of this kind of project I've ever done) but want to know if I'm expecting to change something with the use of the 31856 board.

That being said though, it appears that the green ground wire from the cord does come to the case inside of the kiln (albeit, it looks like a poor connection). Which means that it is probably wired the way that the diagram shows, the 3 prong plug is just not suited for the 4 wire cable. I'd guess the previous owner had a 3 prong receptacle, and opted to match it, and by doing so, cut the ground wire in the cord, and put the 3 prong on to match. It likely worked, but of course, means the kiln isn't grounded. If the wiring to the kiln is correct (providing a proper neutral, and ground) then a new plug or 4 wire power cable would likely be the solution, assuming the inside is wired correctly.

Swapping out just the plug on this would be a pretty straight forward (and fairly inexpensive) project, assuming everything downstream of the plug and inside the kiln is in good shape too. I do have a feeling that your kiln probably has the same issue that @neilestrick and @Bill Kielb had figured out the other night with my kiln, but they will chime in with it soon, I'm sure. I'm basing this on the 120/240v rating on the manufacturer plate, the 4 prong receptacle on the front of your kiln, and the fact that the power cord has a 3 prong plug.

I read this earlier and was thinking the same thing.