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Marian Lake

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  1. The Coyote glazes I've used are Black MBG002, I also use the Charcoal Satin. For the white ones, White MBG023 gloss, Eggshell, Alabaster Satin, Creamy White matte. I like all of them, my least favorite though is the Creamy White matte, it almost feels 'greasy'. I also had a sample pack of the 'Texas Two Steps' 'oil spot' glazes and used the Marshmallow over the 'base' glazes, it breaks up very nicely. The Licorice from the same series is also nice, as is the Espresso. I haven't used a white slip over the 112, but have used a porcelain slip over red clays including Earthen Red from Highwa
  2. You can rinse off the glaze coat, scrub it with a soft brush or scouring pad, let the piece dry before re-glazing. Or you might try and just cover the purple with black, if the piece is important to you you might fire a test tile in a glaze load before firing the work itself. If you're using Mayco 'Foundations' low fire glazes, the black will probably cover up the purple, the only way to know 100% would be the test tile method though.
  3. Hi KCamm, here's a tip sheet from Coyote on glaze fit, most of the glazes will fit the 112 except for the 'Archie's Series'. I haven't tried their Enduro colors but as they're made as liner glazes, they'll probably be a good fit. The 112 has granular manganese added, the specks will show through some glazes but not all. Coyote's Black looks great on every clay I've used it on including 112, their White is also very reliable. For a more translucent white, the Eggshell is one of my favorites. I haven't tried the Standard glazes, difficult to find a supplier for those. Amaco's zinc free clear has
  4. Thanks everyone, many good suggestions, think I'll go with the foam and some sort of strap to keep the lid from getting damage. I'm hoping UPS will work as the carrier they've been pretty good every time I've used them.
  5. First thing I thought of is what Min says, there might be air pockets under the decal. Do you use a rubber rib to smooth it out after sliding it on the piece? I still have the occasional blister even when careful to smooth it out.
  6. It's an Olympic 120v 'hot box' weighs only about 50 lbs. Thinking of just taking it to FedEx like liambesaw suggested, will price it out. If not, would a couple of towels placed inside help protect the bricks?
  7. Hope this belongs here--I have someone who's interested in buying my old test kiln, they want me to ship it as they're too far away for pick up. I don't have any of the original packaging. Any idea of what would be the best way to pack the box so that the kiln isn't damaged?
  8. Unfortunately lizella clay is only yellow at lower temps and isnt a clay body all by itself but rather a clay like redart, added to other clays and such to make the clay body. The digitalfire entry on it shows it turns a dark red/purple when fired by itself to cone 5 but it is quite brittle alone. I’ve only found a couple of commercial clay bodies that use it, Sheffield Pottery has one it looks great in cone10R, almost an irridescent purple. They mine a clay similar to Albany slip on their own property, I’ve done some digging near there and near Albany too but I’m not knowledgeable enough abou
  9. Neat stuff, I wouldn't have expected rocks to fire like that. Especially like the fossil ones with the glaze on it, the yellow ones with the ferns are beautiful. Would love a glaze with that color and depth. Thanks for posting!
  10. Thanks that’s interesting, is the purple clay that color straight from the ground, or after a reduction firing? I think Lizella clay turns purple in reduction but is orange-ish before firing? I’m looking to use a clay nearby that is similar to Alberta slip, with some frit added to make a cone 6 glaze. It’s a low cost material but it’s fun to experiment with ‘wild’ clays (even if I don't know what I'm doing or where to look most of the time :)
  11. I'd also be interested in your findings. I've been wanting to experiment a bit with some local clays, the forums have been very helpful on that topic but new research is always appreciated!
  12. I use different sites depending on what I'm ordering, best to shop around as prices vary on the same item. Sheffield Pottery, Bailey's, The Ceramic Shop, Clay King and Axner are all very good from my own experience with them, all are located in eastern US so your shipping will likely be less than if from companies out West.
  13. That's the first time I've seen a red clay look red with a clear over it, @Min Every time I've tried a clear, I had the same muddy, cloudy color after firing b/c of the bubbles. Will try your version with Alberta Slip, thanks!
  14. I love the look of glazes on 112 but it's not as vitrified as I'd like. I've been using Kentucky Mudworks clays for a year or so now, it was hard to pick just a few because all of the samples I tried of theirs I really like. For now I'm using Speckled Turtle which is a bit redder/darker than 112, Brown Bear dark brown clay, White Lightning porcelain, and Sheltowee which is a deep red. All of these have a 1% or less absorbency. One that you may like is Clawhammer, it doesn't have manganese specks but does show iron speckling in reduction. It's a bit lighter than the 112.
  15. Hi DeDe, don't worry about your beads they won't slump or distort unless you over fire the clay, i.e. you fire a cone 04 body to cone 6. It's porcelain so it's either a cone 6 or cone 10 clay, both of which would work in a cone 6 firing, though cone 6 glazes may craze on a cone 10 body. I would make some little stoneware bowls to fire your beads in, to keep them together and off the shelf. Sometimes porcelain will have 'plucking', where the piece will stick a bit to the shelf, picking up a bit of kiln wash with it. They seem to stick less to the stoneware bowls, I use a cone 10 stoneware for t
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