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Marian Lake

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Everything posted by Marian Lake

  1. The Coyote glazes I've used are Black MBG002, I also use the Charcoal Satin. For the white ones, White MBG023 gloss, Eggshell, Alabaster Satin, Creamy White matte. I like all of them, my least favorite though is the Creamy White matte, it almost feels 'greasy'. I also had a sample pack of the 'Texas Two Steps' 'oil spot' glazes and used the Marshmallow over the 'base' glazes, it breaks up very nicely. The Licorice from the same series is also nice, as is the Espresso. I haven't used a white slip over the 112, but have used a porcelain slip over red clays including Earthen Red from Highwater, Sheltowee from KY Mudworks, and 4d3B from Sheffield Pottery, my main supplier. Worth a try using the slip on the 112, I'm bisque firing some this week, will try a porcelain slip and get back to you with the results. I know that you mean about the learning curve on glazes, there's a recent thread here regarding Glazy recipes, still don't have a good grip on the chemistry, tend to 'glaze over' --pardon the pun-- when I see the explanations. Sounds like you may be more into surface decoration right now, I do the same, I'd like to try as many ways of decorating as I can, commercial glazes offer a fast way to jump right into creating without the time, dedication, and testing that learning glaze formulation requires. Someday though, when I run out of pints, think I'll give the Falls Creek shino and Clear w/mason stains recipes a go. Don't know if it's allowed on the forums, but PM me and I can send some samples of the ones I have. Coyote in general has really good glazes from what I've used so far, they're very helpful customer service as well, they'd probably be happy to answer any questions you have about their glazes-- Best wishes, M.
  2. You can rinse off the glaze coat, scrub it with a soft brush or scouring pad, let the piece dry before re-glazing. Or you might try and just cover the purple with black, if the piece is important to you you might fire a test tile in a glaze load before firing the work itself. If you're using Mayco 'Foundations' low fire glazes, the black will probably cover up the purple, the only way to know 100% would be the test tile method though.
  3. Hi KCamm, here's a tip sheet from Coyote on glaze fit, most of the glazes will fit the 112 except for the 'Archie's Series'. I haven't tried their Enduro colors but as they're made as liner glazes, they'll probably be a good fit. The 112 has granular manganese added, the specks will show through some glazes but not all. Coyote's Black looks great on every clay I've used it on including 112, their White is also very reliable. For a more translucent white, the Eggshell is one of my favorites. I haven't tried the Standard glazes, difficult to find a supplier for those. Amaco's zinc free clear has always worked for me, no crazing or other glaze faults. I have different uses for glaze than yours, as I look for glazes that 'break' on texture. I have favorite types of glazes from each company's selection. For me, I like Amaco's Clear glazes, Celadons and their Potter's Choice 'float' glazes such as Blue Rutile and Indigo Float. Mayco and Duncan also have some really nice float type glazes, and I'd think any of their glazes will be quite reliable. For mattes, I like Georgies glazes, they're 'stony' mattes which I love. Coyote glazes are great for their black and white glazes as mentioned, but the Shinos work especially well for my textured pieces. Their 'Archies' series can produce beautiful results, but they run A Lot...and can shiver on 112 unfortunately. Spectrum glazes I've also found are quite runny. Haven't tried many Laguna glazes, but I do use the 'Robin's Egg' and it's really pretty but a pain to photograph because it's so reflective. Coyote and Georgie's both sell 'sample packs' of their glazes, here are Coyote's, they have the Enduro glazes as one option. If you are going to be brushing glazes, I've found that Amaco, Mayco, and Duncan have more 'brushability' as they contain more gum than Coyote or Georgie's, which feel more like studio glazes because of how fast they dry, but they aren't hard to get even coats with practice. I make small handbuilt items so a pint of glaze goes a long way, but if you'll be making larger items they may go very quickly and are quite expensive! If I could go back to when I started I probably would have bought the materials to make my own glazes, it takes a bit of time to learn and test, but whoo when I look at how much I've spent on commercial glazes...though they did teach me a lot about different types of glazes and how they look on various clay bodies so they did serve their purpose. Hope this helps and hope you enjoy your new at-home studio :)
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