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  1. Hi LeeU - Many thanks for the reposting of the recipe. When the recipe calls for "1/3" - is that by volume? So 1/3 cup of each? - Jeff
  2. Has anyone here ever used vinegar instead of slip to join clay pieces? - Jeff
  3. Excellent idea - you've essentially created a printers layout. Work on a large press sheet then cut out the individual pages. You can multiple up different images as well depending on your production needs. @Pam L. - those are also lovely quotes. The definition of calories is spot on! Trying to get rid of those sneaky little buggers myself - Jeff
  4. One caution regarding the video - note that she mentions that the clay she's restoring is bone dry and is leaving it in the bag/bucket for two weeks. If your clay is just too hard hard to use, but isn't bone dry. 2-3 days is all you need to restore the clay. I've over-softened clay with this method and that presents its own challenges. It is a bit of trail and error. Develop a feel for the clay - don't just look at the clock and the calendar. Check on the block of clay as time goes on. Another method I've used is Simon Leach's solution for clay that isn't bone dry but just needs softening: How to soften up clay that's too hard to throw https://youtu.be/SmoL8a-uSYM Also not a strict formula and as Leach explains, depends on what softness/hardness of the clay you need. As in all things clay, a bit of philosophy is always helpful. - Jeff
  5. As Bruce Lee once said, criticized that he knocked out an opponent with a right cross instead of a karate move: "I use what works." - Jeff
  6. Hi Johnny - That was @Irene the Handbuilder - who suggested that option. Hopefully she'll respond - would be curious myself... - Jeff
  7. Great options, Irene - thanks for offering them! I'm not great at burnishing so the Rejuvenate sounds like it might work for me. Thanks also for the lead-in to Rocky Lewycky - he has quite a few tutorials up on YouTube and I'm certainly looking forward to watching them. Onward to the wheel! - Jeff
  8. Thanks Douglas. Did take a try with a hair dryer and managed to erase the accumulated white was in the small crevices. My bad for a not-so-great burnishing job. I then tried to polish it up a bit with a cotton cloth. So got a little bit of a shine and cleaned up the wax coating - but didn't obliterate the wax coating entirely. Might try to get my hands on heat gun and attempt a 2nd time. - Jeff
  9. I've just had surgery for trigger finger of my left thumb. There was no explanation as to why it happened - it was on my left thumb and I'm right handed - but the surgery was quick and simple. The best visual is imagining pulling a string through a straw. Goes back and forth easily. But in trigger finger, the string has a large knot in the end of it (base of thumb). So when you try to pull the string up through the straw - or your tendon through the covering sheath - the knot "snaps" up through the straw. Same thing happens when you then try to straighten it. Had two rounds of cortisone shots - limit that they offer - but not successful. So opted for the surgery. The surgeon basically makes a small incision at the base of the thumb, then cuts open the sheath covering the tendon so the tendon can move freely. Had full use of my thumb within moments after the surgery was completed. Just had to keep the area covered and dry for 3 days, then covered until I saw the doc 10 days from surgery. It's now been three weeks since surgery and I have full use of my thumb - no pain or discomfort. Still a bit tender when I bang it on a table but that has also been diminishing. Did take a few days off from the wheel but then just bought some latex gloves to cover the affected hand and sealed the glove around the wrist with waterproof adhesive tape so clay and water couldn't get in. Just letting you know this since the surgery is not a game stopper. Any other questions, please don't hesitate to ask! - Jeff
  10. Thanks Dick. The more I dig in, the more options I see. What you mention - I wonder if it's an artist's medium that I read about. Comes in matte, lustre/satin, and gloss. I did use butcher wax on two pieces yesterday but really unhappy about the outcome. The blacks from the pit firing appeared to have died back. Now trying to figure out how to get it off the pieces. Possibly use hair dryer? - Jeff
  11. Hello all - After pit firing and cleaning the pot with damp sponge to remove all debris, we were then shown how to apply butcher's wax and then polish with a towel. Just curious - are there other ways to polish a pit fired piece.? I've read of Howard’s Feed-N-Wax Wood Polish and Conditioner. All suggestions would be most welcome! Thanks as always for your guidance. - Jeff
  12. Hi all - I finally got a chance to pit fire the original bowl with pedestal that I created. As I wrote above, basically just joined a bowl with a cup that had a bottom. Seemed to survive with no cracking or separation. I've since seen better ways to do it ie use a thick coil of clay at trimmed bottom of bowl then raise the sides as if you were pulling a cylinder. Thanks all to your help and guidance - always appreciated. - Jeff
  13. OK - have at it. I'm planning on continuing to create this form until I get it right. - Jeff
  14. Hi Callie - That was my approach. I used a needle tool to heavily score both pieces, used some thick slip, and pressed the pieces together. I actually added some additional slip around the joint thinking I would just trim it off. The small gap may have been from me not pressing down hard enough or maybe I wasn't attentive enough when putting the final slip on. Pres raised another issued - both pieces had solid bottoms and that's how I joined them. Now to see if they survive the kiln. - Jeff
  15. Pres - that is my most honest mistake. I had just created this using a visual so there's a bottom on the bowl and on the pedestal. Seemed logical to me. When I joined them, I heavily scored and slipped. I hadn't asked my instructor about it so when he saw what I had made - this was during open studio time so he wasn't there - he asked the same question. He offered that next time, just go to the bottom of the bat when I create the pedestal and then join the two using a coil. Another member suggested that I just leave a ring on the pedestal and use that to mount to the bottom of the bowl. Will have to wait until it comes out of the kiln to see the final result. - Jeff
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