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Everything posted by spiffypix

  1. I appreciate your feedback. It’s not a rush, no, I’m just extremely impatient lol. :)
  2. Hi everyone - I usually fire at a community studio, but because of the quarantine, they are closed. I have a small tabletop Paragon Quik Fire 6 kiln. It only fires to 2000 degrees. I have ^6 clay. I want to fire the ^6 clay to ^04 for bisque. Can I then use a low-fire glaze to complete the project, firing again at ^04? I know it will not be vitrified, but I only make decorative pieces. I also want to make sure that I can use low-fire glaze on ^6 clay. Would that work, or am I missing something? Thanks for your help. https://www.theceramicshop.com/product/26796/paragon
  3. Going to switch it out to a 30 right now, and if i get the 818, i’ll Switch it to a 40. Thanks guys, so much!
  4. Yikes, Neil. didn’t realize I could have too large of a breaker. even though it’s not within code, can I have a serious issue if I use the 50amp?
  5. Good advice, Bill. I had them install 6-gauge wiring with the 50 amp breaker. So the issue should only be the receptacle. Hoping I can do an easy switch out myself when the time comes.
  6. Big, big question, before I forget: The Skutt 181 has a NEMA 14-30 plug and I have a 14-30 receptacle. I’m looking to eventually upgrade to a new KM-818 kiln, which has a NEMA 6-50 plug. Can I safely use an adapter to allow me to plug in a 6-50 plug to a 14-30 receptacle? It’s a 50 amp breaker, if that makes a difference.
  7. Thanks again to everyone for all of their help. Great advice from all.
  8. THanks, Mark and Steven. You’re both using great logic here, for sure. I’m super impatient, so I want my kiln to cool faster! Lol. If I get the standard Skutt 818, that fires to ^10 but is 2.5”. So i’ll Just use it to fire to ^6, 99% of the time.
  9. I love this forum. Thanks so much, guys. I had no idea that doing ^10 porcelain needed to be done in a reduction atmosphere. I currently use ^6 Coleman porcelain and love it, but I was looking to have the capacity to do ^10. Maybe one day i’ll Get a nice ^10 gas.
  10. Actually, Mark is correct. I wanted to be able to fire ^10 porcelain, but was hoping 2.5 would be enough. Thanks to both for the info!
  11. SUCH good advice from both Neil and Steven. Thank you. I love the idea of firing to ^5 and then a hold (?). And another great idea to get ^10 elements. I haven’t wired it yet, so i’m Quite flexible with the breaker/ amperage. I’m still not convinced that I just don’t pull the trigger on a new Skutt 818-3. I stumbled upon a set of valuable flatware at a thrift store. If I can sell it, I’ll get more than enough to buy that new kiln. ! ! Then I would just keep the 181 for raku. Thanks to everyone for their help! And can someone tell me if I *Have* to have 3” bricks in a ^1
  12. Thanks so much, Arnold. I have to be honest, I saw a Paragon Dragon on Craigslist for $1000 and I almost went for it. But a 75 amp breaker with 4 gauge wire.... gasp! It’s too much for what I need. But what a kiln. And for anyone who may come across this post in the future, here is a great, great video I found that teaches you all about maintaining your kiln, along with how electricity works lol. I needed to learn both of those things. Thanks again.
  13. lol figures. Still, $125 isn’t terrible. Thanks
  14. And does this pack contain enough element to do all three sections or just one section? I can’t tell. It says one in the ad, but i’m Not sure if they consider that one entire unit or not. Thanks
  15. Thanks, Liam. I’m planning on changing out the elements...would I have any issue firing to ^6 if I change them out? Doens’t seem like too huge of a job and seems pretty affordable.. Thanks, Chilly. Yessss, too bad some of them are just straight-up bisque paints. A couple of them are ^05 and the Safari brand is ^5. So i’ll Probably just stick with those and see what happens. Too bad. Do you think a ceramic studio (you know the kind) would want them?
  16. I picked up the kiln and all of the ‘paints’ today. Kiln is so little! I love it. Perfect size for me. I’ll have to pick up some kiln furniture. But honestly not much would fit in there. Here is a pic of the label, as well as a pic of the plug and the outlet that it was attached to. Oh and a pic of about 1/18th of all of the underglazes. There has to be hundreds of them. If they are dried out, can I just use them as watercolors? They seem to all fire to ^5 at least, but I’ll be firing to ^6. Hope that doesn’t make too much of a difference.
  17. Woot woot! Thanks, Neil. You are a huge asset! Thank you. :). I’ll post more photos tomorrow.
  18. So, let me consolidate all my questions into one post (for now lol) : If glazes are super old, are they garbage? Worst case, if there is a weird plug, I can have an electrician come in and install the proper receptacle/breaker? Does it disassemble for transport in a somewhat simple fashion? Can I convert this kiln to a digital / electric controller? Thanks to everyone in advance for their knowledge.
  19. Thanks, Neil. I’ve been firing at a community kiln so I have noooo idea about any of this. Worst case, I can just pay an electrician to come in and set up a receptacle/breaker for me, yes?
  20. Actually, I’m assuming it’s a Skutt? I didn’t notice the other manual. Hmm. Well, I guess I’ll find out tomorrow! What are the issues s that you are seeing with it? Brick issues?
  21. Also, is there anything special I would need to know about wiring? I have a fear that it’s not a standard 220v plug... :/. And if the glazes are old, are they garbage?
  22. Hi everyone - I live on Long Island. Kilns and equipment rarely come up for sale here for some reason. I stumbled across a Skutt 181 kiln, circa 1976, on a yard sale listing on FB. (She’s having a yard sale and the kiln was listed with tons of other non-pottery stuff.). I inquired and she said that I could have the kiln for $100 which also includes “boxes of paints or glazes” and tools. I told her I would take it. I figured that even if the kiln was not usable, I could convert it to a gas one? Or Raku? Is that accurate? Did I get a good deal or did I screw myself? I figur
  23. Thanks to everyone for their great advice. A test tile will definitely be the direction that I take. Yes, Johnny, I own all of the LUGs in the basket and have only used a few to this point. And I have yet to fire a piece, as I am at the mercy of the community studio’s firing schedule. :/ I have definitely checked out the test tile photos online provided by Amaco, but I find I have more success in judging an appearance when seeing it on an actual piece. I feel like I have a poor perspective when only seeing that isolated tile swatch. Thanks again to everyone! PS: for the record, h
  24. Thanks Liam, have you ever used the LUGs? I’m just wondering if they fire differently than how they appear when applied. For instance, here is the ‘dark blue’ in the bottle. But i can’t imagine that they are considering that a dark blue. So wondering if it fires darker. With the Velvets, what you see is what you get.
  25. Hi everyone - please excuse me if I have miscategorized this post. I recently purchased Amaco liquid underglazes. At the community studio where i used to throw, they used their Velvet underglazes. I was under the impression that the LUGs were better, but upon looking at the glazes in the bottles, the colors of the LUGs look very washed out. The velvets seem much more robust in color. I thought it was supposed to be the opposite? Does anyone have a before/after photo(s) of LUGs , pre fire/post fire? I’ve used a couple of them on greenware but still waiting to do a bisque fire. Thanks
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