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Skip

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Everything posted by Skip

  1. Hi GEP, your post popped up after I posted my most recent one. The elements have failed very close to my place setter posts!! This could be the problem with the failing elements. In loading my kiln the posts are very close to the side wall because of two plate stacks on the same shelf. So much to learn....
  2. Los of good advice, things to check, and things to work on. Thank you all so much. I will work on the things suggested and write again when I know more and have some pictures to share. The one thing I need to google or look in the links set is how to check the thermocouple offset. Again, thanks for all the helpful replies. I guess I am still committed to figuring this kiln out.
  3. Thanks for the input Bill. One element failed after 5 firings and another after 10. The other 4 elements are on firing 20 and are intact, but there is lots of element sag between the element holders where there is a gap either due to 16 years of shrinkage or more likely how the kiln was built. The elements fail where the sag occurs. In the two newer elements I stretched them as little as possible before installation. That seems to have helped with the sag, but only more firings will tell that for real. I am not handy enough to measure the resistance without electrocuting myself. I will add a p
  4. I bought a used L&L e23-t kiln that has caused headaches from Day 1. I have replaced thermocouples, relays, and lots of elements. There have been a variety of issues but the most recent one is the kiln is taking about an hour extra (firing slightly slower each time) each time to fire to cone 6 while slow glazing. I have verified that all the elements are heating. Instead of pouring more money into this kiln I am thinking about buying a new kiln. I was thinking about moving up to the e28t-3 but read an article about a known issue with firing this kiln to cone 6 on a 240v single phase set u
  5. It only gives an ErrP when first turning on the kiln. The distressing thing is the 11 hour slow glaze firing time. Could that be the transformer or since it is not happening during the firing cycle is it likely something else? If it still looks like the transformer I’d like to get a new one, but if it is likely something else then I will try whatever else could make the kiln operate normally.
  6. Thank you all for the thoughtful replies. The Error P is new, so I think something is up. I will check the wires/connections. They are packed tightly into the control panel and one could have come loose after I replaced the last element. I hope that is all that it is. The wiring was all done by a professional electrician who had done previous kiln wiring so I think that part is okay. The kiln is hardwired so there is no plug to come loose. The desire for a new kiln is that I just want one that is reliable. I bought this one used and it has fired well, but there have been issues. If the wiring
  7. The last five or six times I have fired my L&L E-23t kiln I have gotten an ErrP code when I first turn it on. I recently changed a broken kiln element, and that is about the time the problem started. The most recent firing times to Slow Glaze Cone 6 have been 7 hours, 8.5 hours, 7.5 hours, and 11.5 hours (in yesterday’s firing) There are 20 firings on 5 of the elements and just a few firings on the recently changed element. When I changed the kiln elements 20 firings ago I also changed the thermocouples and the relays. After the 8.5 hour firing I did a paper burn test to determine that all
  8. Thanks, so many good tips. Do you sand bisqueware or after glazing?
  9. Sorry for this second question. How do you attach it to the bat?
  10. Thank you so much for this great tip. What do you lubricate it with, water or some kind of oil?
  11. My plates have a flat bottom and the top has a slightly raised swirl pattern.
  12. I am a new potter and have made some dinner plates. When I stack them in the cupboard should I put something between the plates to keep the rough bottom of a plate from rubbing the plate beneath it?
  13. It is a 3 zone and the temp shows the second zone. Thanks for the help. I am reassured and will be firing again on Wednesday since it is a rare mid-week day off. I like being home and awake when the kiln is on:)
  14. I fired the kiln to Cone 6 two days ago and it worked well. The time it took was a bit under the time it said it would take. I do have two questions. At the upper temperatures the kiln lid was raised from the ring it sits on about 3/16 of an inch on the side away from the hinge. Is this normal? Also the time was supposed to only got to 2199F but I watched it go to 2215F. I was getting ready to shut it off manually, but as I was debating it finally said Complete. Should I just have shut it off at 2199? I fired 6 pieces and they turned out well but there is some pinholing in the glaze on one of
  15. I was able to splice a new connector onto the old wire. The wire was in great shape and the new connector went on well and is firmly attached. The wire was not too short to easily be connected again with a bit of slack left. I just turned on the kiln and all the elements are working. Thank you so much for all of the help and suggestions from all who posted. It was a real help.
  16. No connectors and it actually looks like it will be too short once I strip the wire and reconnect. I will check out Home Depot and if I have no luck will go for the KC167
  17. Nothing crispy, just snapped. I’ll see if I can dig up a terminal in my vast array of odds and ends in my hardware area. Thanks for the tip
  18. It looks like a Duncan wire KC167 might work
  19. I found the problem. Is this something I can get at Home Depot or is it a special order from a pottery place? This wire ran from where the electricity enters the control box to the relay.
  20. I just did a paper burn test and was able to see that the bottom two elements are not getting hot. After the kiln cools off I will need to look at the wiring to see if there is a problem. The problem has been identified!! Yay...now for the solution...
  21. Awesome. I am going to crank it up to see if the elements are all lighting. Then I will have the electrician check it out on Friday. I’ll write back when I know more. I really appreciate the kindness that you have shown me. One day years from now when I am not new at this I hope to be able to help others as I have been helped.
  22. Thank you so much Neil and Liam. I did leave the thermocouples a few mm of clearance from the end, so I will check those and adjust them. I just checked and I did have a stilt about an inch away from the middle thermocouple. I don’t think that is it, but I may do a slow bisque with an empty kiln to see how the time goes. I’ll have to read how to reset the controller, but that shouldn’t be too hard. I love how easy it is to work on L&L kilns. Of course I’ll love it even more when this problem is solved:)
  23. I really appreciate it. I just found the same thing. I do need the SS and not the SL. I was actually hoping that was the issue. I really want for my kiln to work. Since I have changed everything I can at this point it may be that not enough volts are going to the kiln. I just looked at the fuse box and the kiln is wired to a double switch each of which says 60. Is that enough power?
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