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  1. Thanks Mark and Min. I’m going to do the freezer mug with boiling water test tomorrow. I did a room temp test tonight, and it worked perfectly.
  2. Thank you both so much for your quick, insightful replies. Hulk, I have a white glaze I will use in the future in my mugs. Bill, I will suggest using slightly cooler water for the reasons you mention. Thank you both!!
  3. I fixed two potential issues. When I replaced an old element I twisted the wire counter- clockwise around the terminal instead of clockwise. I also had overstretched two elements such that there was sagging between some of my element holders, so I replaced those elements. Since I made those two changes the kiln has been performing perfectly.
  4. This reply is long overdue, but I wanted to report back. Thanks to all of your great advice and a lot of help from Neil Estrick, my kiln is dialed in and firing perfectly. I really appreciate this community.
  5. I am new to pottery and even newer to throwing mugs. A person I gave a mug to today asked if there was any issue with pouring boiling water into the mug. I am throwing Standard clay 553 Buff Stoneware that I am bisque firing to Cone 06 and slow glaze firing to Cone 6 after painting on four layers of Amaco Potters Choice glaze. The mug in question has Ancient Jasper over Indigo Float. Any thoughts or advice on this are greatly appreciated.
  6. Hi GEP, your post popped up after I posted my most recent one. The elements have failed very close to my place setter posts!! This could be the problem with the failing elements. In loading my kiln the posts are very close to the side wall because of two plate stacks on the same shelf. So much to learn....
  7. Los of good advice, things to check, and things to work on. Thank you all so much. I will work on the things suggested and write again when I know more and have some pictures to share. The one thing I need to google or look in the links set is how to check the thermocouple offset. Again, thanks for all the helpful replies. I guess I am still committed to figuring this kiln out.
  8. Thanks for the input Bill. One element failed after 5 firings and another after 10. The other 4 elements are on firing 20 and are intact, but there is lots of element sag between the element holders where there is a gap either due to 16 years of shrinkage or more likely how the kiln was built. The elements fail where the sag occurs. In the two newer elements I stretched them as little as possible before installation. That seems to have helped with the sag, but only more firings will tell that for real. I am not handy enough to measure the resistance without electrocuting myself. I will add a p
  9. I bought a used L&L e23-t kiln that has caused headaches from Day 1. I have replaced thermocouples, relays, and lots of elements. There have been a variety of issues but the most recent one is the kiln is taking about an hour extra (firing slightly slower each time) each time to fire to cone 6 while slow glazing. I have verified that all the elements are heating. Instead of pouring more money into this kiln I am thinking about buying a new kiln. I was thinking about moving up to the e28t-3 but read an article about a known issue with firing this kiln to cone 6 on a 240v single phase set u
  10. It only gives an ErrP when first turning on the kiln. The distressing thing is the 11 hour slow glaze firing time. Could that be the transformer or since it is not happening during the firing cycle is it likely something else? If it still looks like the transformer I’d like to get a new one, but if it is likely something else then I will try whatever else could make the kiln operate normally.
  11. Thank you all for the thoughtful replies. The Error P is new, so I think something is up. I will check the wires/connections. They are packed tightly into the control panel and one could have come loose after I replaced the last element. I hope that is all that it is. The wiring was all done by a professional electrician who had done previous kiln wiring so I think that part is okay. The kiln is hardwired so there is no plug to come loose. The desire for a new kiln is that I just want one that is reliable. I bought this one used and it has fired well, but there have been issues. If the wiring
  12. The last five or six times I have fired my L&L E-23t kiln I have gotten an ErrP code when I first turn it on. I recently changed a broken kiln element, and that is about the time the problem started. The most recent firing times to Slow Glaze Cone 6 have been 7 hours, 8.5 hours, 7.5 hours, and 11.5 hours (in yesterday’s firing) There are 20 firings on 5 of the elements and just a few firings on the recently changed element. When I changed the kiln elements 20 firings ago I also changed the thermocouples and the relays. After the 8.5 hour firing I did a paper burn test to determine that all
  13. Thanks, so many good tips. Do you sand bisqueware or after glazing?
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