VladCruceanu reacted to oldlady in How to roll a large clay slab - 70 - 100 cm
vlad, if you want to see how the man in the video attaches the coils, watch you tube. look for Joyce Michaud and watch the video that is 12.21 long. she shows exactly how to do it.
she also shows how to make a base, if you make a square instead of a circle and work the s corners as you go, you would be able to do what you like. you will need to find a way to work, whether walking backwards around the pot as you work or supporting it on a giant turning base using ball bearings.
follow the steps shown in the korean video to condition the clay so it is more pliable, that pounding makes it softer and easier to work. love his use of cloth to work it on.
VladCruceanu reacted to liambesaw in Hate sieving glaze? DIY rotary sieve
So like most of us, I feel like the worst part about mixing glaze is the sieving process. Run all this goop through an impossibly small mesh by hand or buy the 140 dollar talisman rotary sieve. Well to heck with that I thought, the rotary attachment is just a few brushes on an arm. So instead of suffer I spent 11 dollars on something that saves so much time it's ridiculous.
I have some cheapo sieves from the local pottery supply that fit in a bucket and now instead of trying to smear all of that glaze through a sieve by hand, I just grab my drill and toss one of these on. Sieve an entire 5 gallon bucket in under a minute!
I got mine on Amazon, but I think you can find them at hardware places too.
Here's a link if you want. I just put my drill on slow speed with a 4 inch brush and it's like magic!
VladCruceanu reacted to hitchmss in How would you build this slab
Sculpt the bottom/left/curved part of the base. Add whatever feet you need to the bottom for your drainage. Make the "straight/angled" slab to fit the other piece. Use some newspaper and scrap clay to support the straight slab as it dries and is fired. Use newspaper between your scrap clay and sculpted/slab parts; this keeps them from bonding together and is easily burnt off during the firing, or removed prior to firing. Make you support so that it can be removed; might need to make multiple little support legs. Looks to be unglazed, just stains. I would fire the piece with your support clay in it, and it may want to stick to your stains; if low fired, you might try a little silica sand in between the waste supports and finished product.
the design is kind of counterbalanced; the longer straight slab allows the "rounded" bottom of the curved piece to stand without having an actual foot ring or feet. This will take trial and error to find the right amount of weight to counterbalance.
It does look like the bottom portion does have a "arm" in the back which helps support the straight slab; you're gonna have a few smaller points to connect your two parts together so make sure those joints are nice and solid. Score, slip, and reinforce well; texture and sculpt to blend/hide the joint.
VladCruceanu reacted to Chilly in How would you build this slab
I like both the responses you've got above.
As a slab builder, and having made (attempted anyway) lots of weird things, I think I'd go with @Callie Beller Diesel's suggestion first. Less work, and you could make say 5 bottom pieces and 5 top pieces, and hopefully some combinations will fit together.
VladCruceanu got a reaction from hitchmss in Need your opinion on this particular slab roller model
In the following months I will order a Bailey Bailey DRD II Slab Roller With 51" Table.
It's a safe investment that will also help me build big slabs for big pots.
VladCruceanu reacted to shawnhar in Any new potters have a good first or 2nd year?
I had a great 1st year, (9 months). I met the majority of my personal goals, set up a tiny studio in my house, learned to fire my little 2.6cf kiln to good result with the few glazes I chose to start with, just reached the point where I can throw a "decent" mug in under 3 minutes, and I did $2,300 in sales. Half of that was the 4 weeks in December leading up to xmas at a small local farmer's market in a school gymnasium.
Overall I am very pleased with my progress and looking forward to 2019, but it's gonna be a slog, luckily my wife has decided to sell her business and help me pursue my dream of being poor.
VladCruceanu reacted to Magnolia Mud Research in Propane or wood fired kiln recommendations for low-fire
Fred Olsen's "Kiln Book". at https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/shop/the-kiln-book/
Mel Jacobson's "21st Century Kilns" ebook on amazon, or contact Mel at http://melpots.com/
Steve Mills' "Backyard Kilns" at: https://stevemillsmudslinger.weebly.com/uploads/1/8/9/8/18980597/backyard_kilns_steve_mills_(1).pdf
Nils Lou's "The art of firing"
After studying the principles of a combustion kiln, you might consider designing an all fiber kiln, especially if you go the propane route. Using fiber would allow you to customize the kiln for each sculptural item.
VladCruceanu reacted to hanee in Propane or wood fired kiln recommendations for low-fire
I've been a renter and have moved around most of these years so up until now I was never able to consider building a kiln. But after many years of dreaming, we bought land last summer and built a small house and I'm now ready to start planning my studio and kiln.
Fortunately (or unfortunately), depending on your perspective, we are off grid. So electric is off the list, as are any significantly-drawing electric controllers. We also have plenty of wood resources (13.5 acres). I'm a bit of a purist so I'd prefer to do wood firing, but it might be wiser to build an initial propane kiln to get started and migrate towards wood through experimentation.
As for my firing needs. I'm a figure sculptor (my website is at http://haneebirch.org -- though my work has all been on hold for the past 6 months ever since we took the leap on buying land). There's a few requirements that come from that.
1. I only need to bisque fire (cone 06-05). That means my kiln can be designed around only needing to reach those lower temperatures. (Though in the long term I may start trying my hand at slip casting, which woudl technically open up porecelain to me I still think I would tend towards earthenware as I'd rather keep with the lower BTU and the earthier tones)
2. I need some flexibility in size. Long term I may want to try firing some lifesize full figures, but short term, I need to easily be able to fire half-size work (roughly 36" in one dimension and, say, 24 in the other) and busts.
3. I will likely want to have a rather controlled ramp-up and ramp-down though I am comfortable making my bodies more shock proof if needed (I've used raku clay in the past but that was when I did much coarser work than the work I do now). That said, I've never had a sculpture break in a kiln and I have used everything from raku bodies to completely grogless clay, and have fired plenty of things with air pockets and uneven, very thick sections (or solid). I also intend to be exploring base-bodies with heavy straw/planar-shavings/hemp, and firing large solid sections with that mix (which I believe should fire rather well as a ventable but solid core).
So, I'm looking for book recommendations or online resources or personal advice as to good designs to consider. Wood firing, as I said, would be very mcuh ideal.
Cost is a major consideration and I also prefer to use very little technology. Within the rocket mass heater community some people have had success with hand built sraw-clay-vermiculite fireboxes instead of insulated firebrick, ceramic fiberboard, blankets, or cast refractory, so I'd like to explore some eartheir low-tech options but I'm not sure if similar explorations have been done in the ceramics world
Mainly, to start, I will probably just need the quickest, simplest, cheapest cone06 propane-based kiln I can put together but I'd love to be pointed to some dreamier wood-fired options.
Also, I live in a cold winter climate (Penobscot, Maine) -- not sure how reasonable it would be to fire outside and even if I could manage to fire the kiln on a negative 20 degree day, I'd rather not waste the precious heat so designing the kiln for firing indoors (with proper exhaust and make-up air) would be ideal, but not if it made the design much more difficult to acheive.
Personal recommendations? Good books to look into? Websites?
VladCruceanu reacted to liambesaw in What’s on your workbench?
Well worked my way through all of my bags of iron-rich stoneware.... Or so I thought. 100 lbs of reclaim looks just about ready to throw with, so I'll be wedging up some of that tonight to see if it's still got legs. While burning through my bags I used this stuff called Goldbar Brown and it was pretty stiff, but it made throwing large pretty easy, might have to pick some more of it up if I like the fired appearance. I made a pretty good sized lidded jar with it and I know with my standard clay I would have had the torch out a few times at least.
VladCruceanu reacted to Susan Herre in cracked bisque -- will it break with ^5 firing?
Please see the crack near the bottom of three sides of this piece. The crack occurred with bisque firing (I am in a group studio.) I think perhaps the walls were too thin. . .?? Can anyone suggest other reasons for the crack?
The clays are Laguna (WC871 Calico and WC401 BMix-5) Cone 5. I would like to clear glaze the piece and fire it at Cone 5. Do you think the crack will break open / break the piece completely?
Thank you for your input.
VladCruceanu reacted to Rex Johnson in How to Push Gas Kiln through Stall?
Yeah, counter to common sense, turning the gas down will indeed help the heat rise. But it's all about the air/fuel mixture and the flue draw.
I have to watch my Olympic bottom burner kiln real close. Bisque will over fire in a few minutes if I'm not on the ball...
VladCruceanu reacted to Chilly in Studio Photography
Hello, and goodbye. Seems like I've had a few days away and WW3 has been and gone.
To "Deleted User", sorry you didn't get the answers/responses you wanted.
To all the other responders, well done guys, I applaud you for giving your own time to respond to newbies, and for also sticking to your own views and principles.
You can please some of the people some of the time.
VladCruceanu got a reaction from Rae Reich in Stoneware cracks
The pot was built for a future bonsai. Tiny holes and different walls thickness are part of the design. The irregular shape makes the pot much more interesting.
One of you told me to cut the bottom and make a new one, this is something that I cannot do. The bottom is very well connected with the walls and the foots.
Lesson learned, fully agree here. I searched a lot the internet, most of the experienced people say that the object should be thrown away and make a new one. Yes, I love every object I made and this is one of my favorite. I ordered a high-fire mender and I will try to cover the cracks. No matter what result I will have, I will let you know after the object will be bisque fired.
Thank you all.
VladCruceanu reacted to Bill Kielb in Need your opinion on 1-phase electric kiln
Good for you, maintenance can be challenging but after looking at the elements in this kiln Neil is right. I would make any tech I paid to replace these fix any brick he damaged doing it.
More importantly wood fire kiln? Fantastic! I hope you get to do both!