Teala62

Hello Marcia, I have a similar question because I need a belt for a CXC. So we can use belts from auto supply stores? I have a used CXE that needs a new belt. I called one clay pottery supplier place and they said it might need to be ordered directly from Amoco and that I should call back on another day when their customer service person who knows about belts is there. I went to the Brent webpage and found out what size I need. I know it’s a six groove V belt. The belts at the auto store looks totally different from the ones in the Brent video so I know that the auto people call their v groove belt s serpentine. I just wasn’t sure I could use a non-Brent belt.

Great Mark ! Thank you!

A SHOUTING THANK YOU to Neil, Pres, Mark C, Chris, and Greybeard !! Thanks to all of you great people who helped me, I was able to get that CXC. Now the adventure begins. I will be replacing the belt so I have to order it and learn how to install it. I'm off to look for information about what I may need to do to service/clean/oil the motor. I think it might need something because when I did not use my sewing machine for 10 years I needed to clean up its moving parts and have the machine gone over. But for $400, I am very happy. I will tackle the foot pedal first. My first search for how to change the belt brought up a video from brent!!! YAY now I need to order my belt. THANK YOU AGAIN GUYS!!!!

Thank you Greybeard. I went and got it. I am excited. I can't wait to clean it up. Then, I will have to order a belt and figure out how to change / replace it.

Oh Mark, I have to agree. I am also a teacher. My students were always amazed that I would have them discuss ideas openly and did not require them to have "my opinion" . I have had 3 different instructors since I started in 2013 taking classes as a senior citizen. They all have very different views, approaches, and ideas. I am learning a great deal more here on the forums that helps than I get from these instructors. The classes are free, the clay is free, the firing is free so it's a great resource. Some of them let those of us who are "seniors" just do what we want--others insist we do the projects that the class would do. This most recent one is having all of the throwers throw blindfold to create different shapes by feel--she said she is trying to push them to stretch, improve their skill levels, and try new things. I knew here reputation so I did not take the level 2 class because I am not able to make ten 5 inch cylinders to cut into pieces to see how perfect they are. The one lady was furious yesterday because she had all her pieces of her cylinders glazed for test tiles and because she did not have her name of every part of the 1/4 of a cylinder (she is the only one teaching and has very few students) she would not fire them. I just try to give her a wide berth and do my hand--building until fall semester begins.

Thank you Rex!! You guys are so great!

Hi Chris, I was less than clear. I rewrote it twice trying to make it clear. I am only going 7 hours away. If I needed to, I could do it over 4 days. Going to NC was the 4 days of at least 8 hour + driving. I am retired and do not work in the summers so I won't miss any work. In addition, it is a straight shot of driving, no big hills or remote areas to traverse. The guy actually has it in his mom's garage about 100 miles closer to me. He will not be there at all---just his mom and he is going to ask a friend of hers to help me get it into my car.

Hello Chris, You beat me to the search on you tube. THANK YOU!!! It saves me the trouble. I came across this latest wheel by shear serendipity. I was all set to get a used Shimpo which was 10 hours from me one way. Stephen then reminded me that clay king would have that same wheel new for 1200 delivered so I decided NOT to drive 20-24 in four days to go and come back. Locally that wheel was going to be $1515, but I could get it for $900 so I thought I was going to save $$$$$. I had forgotten I could get it on-line. Shortly after I made that decision, I found this wheel only 7 hours from me. I can do that in four days with no problem.

Thank you Mark! I am going to investigate the Baileys. I am glad to hear that slab rollers do not stretch the clay too much. She makes a lot of money doing hand building and insisted that if we had enough time in class, she would make us use the rolling pin for everything.

Hi, Does anyone have experience using this type of slab roller? My instructor said she does not recommend using a slab roller because it pulls the clay too much--she said a good rolling pin is much better. I am 66 and think anything that would help me make big slabs could be a good tool. Some people in class say that these types of slab rollers are too much bother and I would be better off using the rolling pin because you must put the boards in and out and that that is not as easy as it seems. All and any comments would be appreciated.

Pres, Thank you again. I was hoping I could get an answer that would give me the courage to drive to go get it. The guy said he would keep it for me at $400 until I called him tomorrow. I told him I was going to ask people who were professional potters. He suggested he thought it might just need a new belt also. It had been in the garage at his Mom's house. He used it for two summers while he was in college and then he got the bug to do glass work and never looked back, his mom used it for about 2 months and that is it. I am going to try to verify the age, but I am not sure the age matters if there is not a serious problem.

Hi again, This wheel has been in storage for 19 years. The man's mother used it prior to storing it when she decided she did not want it in her house. It sounds like the Brents I hear at the college, but there are two problems: the wheel does not stop when you put the wheel in the position it should stop. My instructor at the college said it is not a problem, you just adjust the foot pedal and it will definitely stop it. I do not know if that is an absolutely true statement or if that is often the case. MORE IMPORTANTLY, I hear a banging in this video. It is 7 hours from me, so I can't really go see it to easily. He's only asking $400. So depending on what that noise is and how much it would cost to correct, it could be a good wheel. WHAT COULD THAT NOISE BE????? IS IT A DEAL BREAKER because it would be very costly to correct? https://youtu.be/iI0H2HwQbjQ

I was looking at getting a used Thomas Stuart priemere, but the guy has not written back. I did not need the 1hp motor, but I could get it and save money. I doubt anything will work out. I then decided to consider the shimpo because they are available here. I am still torn because the 1/3 hp TS has that nice big pan to keep your bucket in, but I was concerned about the noise and how I would move it by myself into my house.

Does anyone have experience with the Shimpo Whisper VL? People say shimpo’s Have bad torque and slow down with even $10 pounds. In the class I am taking the teacher has us using & pounds to throw off the hump. I have been trying to find a used wheel unsuccessfully and am thinking that maybe I should just get what is available locally—which are the shimpos. I have one man who has a skutt who said he would send pictures after he called me. He asked me so send my email address so I did , but I have no video . I think when I am not in there area they do not want to take a chance—not sure why—but I had seen an old shimpo that the lady told me she would send the video the next day and she emailed me and said she sold it before she could make a video on their phone. So I’m thinking of just buying what I can. I just need people who actually use the shimpo VL whisper to tell me what they like and what they dislike.

Hello, I am so thrilled and thankful that so many of you read everything. I accidentally posted this here instead of in the equipment topic. I went ahead and contacted an administrator to see if it could be deleted or moved and saw it was still here and better yet, there were answers!!! You are all the best! I have emailed the owner of this Brent C. I have not heard back. The person is asking $650. When I think I first saw the post about a month ago, I wrote to the person and explained that s/he was asking more than 2/3 the cost of a new one and that most people looking to buy a wheel would know that was way too much money for a 20 year old wheel and would probably buy a new one with a warranty. I also explained why the "extras" being offered might not be of great value to a person who has been throwing for a while, but s/he did not tell me to make an offer--but instead said this would require more study and consideration and promptly pulled the listing off craigslist. The person thanked me for educating him/her about the wheel. I cannot remember if the person sent me a video--I usually ask for one. PRES-- I am not sure I understand what you are saying about the bat pins: "The bat pins can be removed if rusted on, "but then they may just not be removed" . Often these are "thumb nutted "on the bottom making them harder to remove. What do you mean they can be removed if rusted on--but then they may just NOT BE REMOVED? Do you mean there is a possibility they might be able to be removed or there is a possibility they cannot be removed. What does Thumb nutted on mean?? Do they have a nut underneath to hold the pin instead of a wing nut? Thank you all again. I am hoping this person will answer me.

Hello, I have a picture of a Brent C wheel head. I cannot go see this wheel in person because it is 8 hours away from me. Has anyone seen a wheel head look like this? I am thinking it might be pitted and therefore need replacing, if not immediately then eventually. I do not know what I could do to remedy the situation short of buying a new wheel head, but I am thinking there might be aluminum cleaners that could help. I also am thinking it may have bat pins that are "rusted or stuck" in and am not sure if , or how, they can be removed if they are locked in there. Any comments or help would be useful. If I can get this wheel, I would have to go get it this week because there are no classes tomorrow due to the holiday so I would have plenty of time to drive over. Thanks, Carole

Hello Denice and Mark, I am sure that before I begin really looking for a kiln, I would have to have a great deal more experience. I have been watching and reading the forums because it is hotter than Hell outside and I do not do well in heat and humidity. However, having said I was going to give up, I just searched again and a wheel that was way overpriced I think has been re-listed. If it is, here is a picture of the wheel head. I have not seen one look like this. Since I cannot see it in person, I am putting the picture here. Do you think it is pitted like old aluminum pans used to get? It is a brent C and although I do not necessarily want a brent c, at the right price and condition, I know the brents where I take class do work and enough people here love and make a living using their brents. Has anyone seen a wheel head look like this? It looks to me like the bat pins could be "rusted or stuck" in from this photo, but I am not sure. If it is available and he sends me a video, I could go get this this week.

Thank you very much. I thought it had to be very old because I have never seen anything like it before. I got interrupted in my conversations with the man because my sister-in-law died so I went to PA to be with my brother. I think my instincts on these things are growing with each one I try to find. In OH, PA, IL, IN, KY you cannot find a Brent that is less than $700-$800. Then, they are usually 15-20 or more years old. I found one that a man has about 8 hours from me, but he also has an L and L kiln. He only wants to sell it as a group. He has broken the kiln down because he is moving so he cannot show me if it lights up let alone heats. His stuff is 8 years old and he said he bought it new. I am about ready to just give up. I keep throwing a large net and every time I find one and offer less the people refuse my offer and come back at full price, decide to keep it, or sell it in a garage sale because I from out of town. I think I am just going to step back for a while and see what I can do by taking classes and just do what I can do there.

Thank you again. I thought about that, but having not seen one in person, I was not sure if it would be very different or not.

Hello, I am pretty much a newbie. There are people here who are very very knowledgeable and helpful . I was recently asking questions on this forum about used kilns. I was in the same situation as you. There is an entire discussion about kilns and what to ask under the frequently asked questions page. I also found a list of questions somewhere on the internet that i collected to ask sellers. Many of the questions I had were based on my inexperience with owning and firing a kiln. I have been reading everything on these forums that even remotely related to owning, repairing, buying a kiln. Some questions will depend on where you are going to put your kiln--in an attached garage?? inside the basement?? in a shed just built for the kiln. It also depends what part of the country you are in. In moderate climates, I believe one has more options. I am not sure how many people selling kilns on craigslist will answer these questions for you. Some may, but many will not. I always want to know how old a kiln is so I can determine whether the price they are asking is too much for the age of the kiln. I hope this information helps you. Kiln Questions. 1. What are the measurements of the kiln? height, depth, and width. 2. Did you keep a firing log with details about your firings? 3. When did you buy it? Did you buy it new? 3a. If you bought it new: Do you have the paperwork for the sale and the manual for the kiln? Can you tell me what cones/s you fired your kiln to and how often you fired it? Can you tell me the highest cone level to which you have fired it? 4. If you bought it use: Do you know how old it was when you bought it? Do you know if that person bought it new or used? Do you know what cones/s the previous owner fired the kiln to and how often he fired it? Do you know the highest cone level to which the previous owner had fired it? Is it a phase 1 or phase 3 kiln? Is it 208 or 240 ? What type of controller does this kiln have and do you have the manual or directions for it? Does it have a plug or does it require hardwiring? Did you use a venting system with this kiln? Are the shelves clean or is there evidence of glaze on them? Are any of the shelves warped? How many shelves do you have and what kinds do you have . whole/half? What sizes of posts do you have and how many of each? Do you have the peep hole plugs? Do you have a stand for the kiln? Does the stand have a solid sheet on it to help support the bottom of the kiln? Where is the kiln and will moving it involve going up or down any stairs? Where did you fire the kiln? In a garage, basement, or heated shed? Did you move it to its current location when you got it or did you have it professionally installed? On L and L's website, they have pages and pages of information about kilns and how to pick a kiln. . I do not know the exact link, but here is one that will get you to their pages and you can search them pretty easily http://hotkilns.com/easy-fire-kilns Here is one link to a discussion on these forums: http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/5675-choice-which-kiln-to-choose/?tab=comments#comment-52538 Here is a link to the frequently asked questions information with all the topics listed in an organized way. http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/5736-in-the-studio-forum-f-a-q-listing-frequently-asked-questions/

Hi again, I found a person near me who has an old wheel. He only knows it is a robert brent wheel. It has a .5 hp motor. I am going to call Amaco with the serial number tomorrow to see if I can find out how old it really is. In the meantime, does anyone know what wheel this might be? The person does not know anything much about it just that it has been at his house for a long time. Here is a link to a video that shows how it sounds. Old Brent Wheel Video. It is a very dark video, but it is the wheel in the picture. It sounds like some of the wheels at the college where I take classes EXCEPT I think I hear some type of rubbing or banging. I am also not sure that the bat pins are where they belong. They look like they are too close to the edge of the wheel, but I do not use bats nor am I throwing right now. I am mostly hand building so maybe that is where the bat pins are. I always thought they were 10 inches so if this wheel head is 14 inches they look too far out. He said it is a 14inch wheel head, but he also said one wheel is 13 and one wheel is 12. I don't know what he is talking about. In addition, I am not sure when I look at the video that it is spinning true . I just can't see it. I am probably going to drive the hour if he will tell me when I can come see it and see if I can tell in person. He is asking $400 or best offer. I am not sure I would offer 400. I am thinking maybe $250 or $300. The whining at high speeds is familiar to me, but some of the other noises I don't know about. If you can hear things that are a problem, how difficult would they be to have repaired and how much money might I need to do it properly? Thank you, Carole .

Hi and welcome, I am not in the pottery business, but I agree completely with what Min said. I paid for much of my college tuition in the 70's making tea sets and tea ceremony cups. Then, I began to work as an English teacher and had no time for pottery even though I did make a kick wheel. Flash forward 40+years. In 2013, I took classes at a local community college and began to try to revive my throwing skills. The first day of class I thought it would be like riding a bike and my hands, arms, back, and rythym would all come just pick up where I left off in the 70's. Even with practice, I am still not where I was 40 years ago. It takes many long days and hours of practice and analyzing the work you do. The first day we threw ten five inch cylinders and cut them in half to evaluate how well they were done. They were to be the same size and weight. The other experienced potters in my class are still working at improving, evaluating, and adjusting their techniques. In addition I have had 3 different teachers and each one has taught me different things in different ways. This summer I decided to focus on hand building. This teacher's approach and methods are rigorous. She focuses on improving and perfecting technique. Her requirements build good studio habits. She has a totally different approach and perspective than the other two. I am learning so much about hand building and throwing that neither one of the previous teachers had even mentioned. I hear here talk to the students throwing and she is so precise in her comments that I am even tempted to try to do some wheel throwing so she can help me with that. My first class the teacher said "Center your clay and pull up your walls." No demo, just words. Min's advice is spot on. I thought I had a pretty thorough understanding of hand building; however, this summer has taught me there's still plenty to learn and perfect.

I did not purchase it. The lady sold it before I called her back.

Hello Clay Lover, Do you have the ssx pedal or the normal one? How deep is the pan in the center where the shaft for the wheel head is ? I worry about spilling everywhere.

Do I understand correctly that all creative industries wheels are no longer supported at all--meaning that parts (belts etc. ) for them cannot be found? Would this mean you would have a wheel you could no longer repair or make work at optimal speeds?