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About BornonSunsetCeramics

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    Venice Beach, California

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  1. I was careful and brushed the clear on the sides, so if there is overlap its very minimal. I used a white underglaze because I was hoping for a very rich opaque, yet light color matte interiors to contrast the warm buff clay body. I was afraid not using an UG would muddy the color of the glazes. Any clue why the white UG would crack in a circle that way? I guess the glazes may not fit my clay body very well... which is a shame because it's a pretty buff color and throws so nicely! I'm so bummed.
  2. I fired to cone 5 with a 15 minute hold on the medium program in my Skutt. All were bisque fired to cone 04 on slow. They each have white underglaze on the interior (Amaco VU) which was applied at the green stage before the bisque. I applied the duncan glaze to the middle of each and then speedball clear just around the walls of the dishes prior to the glaze fire, since I was planning to use them as serving vessels. The clay is SBF cone 5/6 Aardvark. I placed witness cones and they read as follows: ^4: flat and broken, ^5: touching the kiln shelf, ^6: slight bend to about 1 o'lock posit
  3. Hi All, I'm having a heck of a time with these Duncan true 5 matte glazes. They keep crawling! I'm guessing the glaze pooled in the edges of these low serving bowls, and that's why they crawled...? Is there any hope is saving these? Also, that crack in the dish on the left is in the white underglaze... and happened during the bisque firing. There's no crack in the dish it's self, what could have caused this to happen? Thanks so much everyone!
  4. Just a quick question about re-firing work. I wasn't happy with some details around a logo that I carved in to my pieces so I've fixed them with glaze (and also filled a few pinholes) - my question is whether or not I need to be as meticulous about dust and fingerprints on these like you do with glaze on bisque. I had to hold them firmly and work slowly to fix my glaze errors from the past firing. I'm feeling like that stuff (oil from my hands, dust) will burn off before the glaze melts again since its technically laying over top of a hardened/fired glaze and not absorbing into un-fired
  5. Hey guys! I'm (still) trying to replicate the look of MG2 over Soldate 60, but at cone 5/6. I've recently tried Amaco 48 and 480 clay bodies but they're actually too speckly on surface areas left unglazed. Also, I found that I love Amaco's satin matte white over the speckled clay when it's covering the surface because the speckles show through but dang it's too expensive to buy by the pint, plus brushing on is a drag if I'm only doing white. Any tips on a good dipping matte white that isn't so opaque that you won't see the clay body beneath? And does anyone know a ^5/6 body that's clo
  6. Hey gang! I'm curious if there is a way to achieve the look of MG2 over soldate 60 - that cool speckled look, at cone 6 in an electric kiln? I love the look and miss making it, and would love to recreate it at home if possible. Thanks!!
  7. Hello lovely clay folk, I'm looking to add a mini slab roller to my studio and am wondering if anyone would mind letting me know which is best, or what to look out for when purchasing? I'm short on space, so looking for a mini version. I found one on Etsy made by a potter and her engineer husband which has piqued my interest - I love supporting individuals and small businesses where I can. but above all I want the right roller since this will be the only one I have for the foreseeable future! It's soon to be my birthday so this will be a joint gift from my husband and parents and in-laws
  8. I have a Skutt KM 1027 - 3 (only 9 firings so far) and it has a latch on the side that supports the lid at 3 levels for venting. They advise you to you this and to use the lowest level to close the kiln. However, I noticed that it isn't 100% flush when I latch the lid. I can't see fire through it, and I couldn't even measure the opening it's so small, but it's not flush. I thought perhaps this was intentional for oxygen flow, but now I'm thinking I just drop the lid and say to hell with this latch when glaze firing. thoughts? My pieces that were at the top were definitely under-fired... could
  9. Also, Min, can I just say how appreciative I am that you went to the Aardvark site and had a look? Thank you for such kind, thorough support. Sending you all the virtual hugs. **they say this clay can go to cone 6 and an employee mentioned that there wasn't THAT big of a difference between cone 5 and 6, but I'm learning that isn't always the case. I love this forum!
  10. As the true nebwie I am, I used a self supporting cone for my test fire to 04 and it was spot on, and then proceeded to never use one again. I need to go buy some 5 and 6 cones bc I know (even as the zygote I am) that my kiln is firing cooler at the top. I was going to start a new thread for this question but if you're still reading... I have a Skutt KM 1027 - 3 (only 9 firings so far) and it has a latch on the side that supports the lid at 3 levels for venting. They advise you to you this and to use the lowest level to close the kiln. However, I noticed that it isn't 100% flush when I latch t
  11. Thank you! I just reread my post and I didn't add that I bisque fire to 04. I get the feeling that they don't want to admit this clay doesn't like cone 6 because I suggested that and the idea was always shot down. I love the idea of mixing my own glazes but oh boy is that intimidating! Can you recommend a good book or DVD to begin? Thanks so much!
  12. Hi Neil! I've tried just going to 6 with this clay and it bloated as well. The last firing was a batch that I ran custom bisque firing on before the glaze fire (as opposed to just running the Skutt "slow" program that comes on the kiln. I've fired it to cone 5 with no issue, I just wasn't thrilled with my glaze. Can you recommend a soak time at cone 5? Thanks!
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