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About tanvi504

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  1. Thanks for the suggestions. I suppose plate setters would be the safest option.
  2. Im looking for some advice regarding luster firings. I use cone 5 clay and glaze. Can the wares be touching each other in a luster fire at cone 018? Not the lustered parts but the glazed parts. Or will they stick to each other even though its a low temperature fire? Im trying to fire 30cm plates that have just one line of luster. Is there any way I can put stilts on a plate (avoiding the luster ofcourse) and put another plate on top of it? or will it damage the glaze?
  3. I am visiting Canada for 2 weeks in June and am looking for short 1-2 day workshops that I can take in Vancouver, Calgary or Toronto. Im having some issues with my wedging and centering and am hoping to find a private one-on-one troubleshooting sort of workshop. Any ideas? Anybody know any talented tutors?
  4. This might sound like a silly question. Ive worked with high fire clay so far - so I bisque to cone 05 and glaze fire to cone 5. I want to use some low fire glazes and im not sure on how to fire it. My question is how do you fire clay that has a firing temp of 1000-1250 celcius with low fire glaze. I would prefer to bisque fire first and then apply glaze instead of applying glaze to greenware. What temperature do I bisque to? and what temperature do I glaze fire to? Oh also, any suggestions for a low fire pure white dipping glaze that doesn't run? ( I use amaco celadon C-10 snow for cone 5 dipping which is amazing - so any low fire suggestions similar to this)
  5. Hi there I am looking for a pink glaze recipe that fires at cone 5-6 and stays bright. So far everything ive seen on the market fades at that cone temperature. And the recipes I found online are not quite bright. I know using chrome tin makes a glaze pink. Also Nepheline Syenite. Anyone has a recipe to achieve the attached color at high fire?
  6. I am also fairly new to pottery. I first bought the Shimpo RK 55 wheel which I didnt like. It slowed down considerably every time I tried to center which is because of its weak motor. Then I bought a Brent CXC which I looooveeeee. This wheel is so powerful its amazing. And I purchased an L&L easy fire 18S kiln which is also really good. Very easy to operate and has ample space if you are just starting off. Just my two cents. Good luck !
  7. Lost two bud vases in the kiln yesterday. Shouldve let them dry out longer. Sigh..losses hurt. All part of the learning curve.

  8. I just bought an easy fire e18s kiln. I was going to do a test fire. I have one question. The instruction manual talks about spring hinges and things. We didnt disassemble the kiln. Do we need to follow any of these steps? We simply assembled the stand and placed the kiln on top. Am I ready for test fire?
  9. Hi everyone. So I tried some of the things that you guys suggested and I did manage to resolve the problem somewhat. Looks like it was a combination of trapping an air bubble at the bottom while smacking and also squeezing too hard at the bottom while coning up. Im still not getting it perfectly centered but its a lot better - and there was no knot at the bottom like my images - so thats good ! thanks for helping everyone. I love how helpful this community is !
  10. I posted a question a few weeks ago about centering. I started doing pottery about 6 months ago and was progressing fairly well. And then suddenly i just couldn't center. No matter what I tried i just couldn't center. And it still continues. I get to kind of centered but I know i feel a wobble right at the base. I manage to make something but its a mess trying to trim because there are knots and lumps all over. And now a few times the base of my pots look like this. (attached images) What am I doing wrong? Last night I stopped the wheel after I couldnt get it to center and wired through my lump of clay in several places. There were absolutely no air pockets. I just dont understand what im doing wrong. Any advice?
  11. Please excuse me if my question seems stupid. Im quite new to this. I want to fire a stoneware - first bisque, then with a white glaze and finally paint it with underglaze colors and fire again. The clay I am using is Laguna B Mix 5 WC 401 which fires at cone 5. The white glaze I want to use is Amaco dry glaze C10 snow which fires at cone 5-6 I would paint with underglaze that says it should be applied to cone 04 bisque ware and fired to cone 06. Now my question is how do I fire? Can I do a bisque fire at cone 5. Then glaze fire at cone 5. And then again a low fire for the underglaze at cone 06 ? Or do I need to use a low fire clay that fires bisque at cone 04?
  12. If you follow Molly Sanyour ceramics on instagram you'll see she makes bowls very similar to these. She puts different stains in clays and then wedges them together. Even has hyperlapse videos of her doing it.
  13. I recently got a Brent CXC from theceramicshop.com and they shipped it for me to Dubai, UAE. Long way from them They used UPS but handled everything for me. I didn't have to get involved with the freight companies and struggle to get quotes etc. It cost me quite a bit for shipping to Dubai but PR shouldn't be too much. Email maggie at maggie@theceramicshop.com and she will arrange a quote for you in a few days.
  14. So I recently bought a kiln and don't know a lot about how glazes work - will figure it out as I go along. Just had a question. How is the effect in the attached teapot achieved? Can I dip bisqueware in white and then paint on top of it with underglaze and then fire? How else would I be able to achieve a white base with painted pattern on top? Appreciate any advice.
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