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tanvi504

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About tanvi504

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  1. @Min you’re absolutely right. Glaze chemistry is very intruiging to me and im so excited to explore further. Since its so new to me and the field is so vast and varied, it was nice to have a starting point which you have now provided. Thank you for explaining that. @liambesaw @neilestrick The kiln was fun on both occassions and it was cooled the same as before but I think you might be right about the thickness. The second batch was applied thinly than the test tiles so that might be the issue. Neil you mention that sitting out after being glazed can affect the melt. Did you mean letting it slowly dry outside would improve it or better to glaze and quickly fire it in the kiln?
  2. I found this recipe for a micro crystal glaze cone 6 on glazy and gave it a go. The first time I got gorgeous crystals and the second time nothing - just a super matt white glaze. Now the author of the glaze says that it is best used fresh - something to do with soda ash being soluble. The first time I used it right after I mixed it and the second time it sat for maybe 4-5 hours before I used it. Could that small amount of time be responsible for the crystals not forming? And my second question is, is there a substitute to soda ash that might work in the same way but produce a reliable glaze that can sit months without ‘going bad’? Ive only just started mixing glazes so id appreciate any advice to troubleshoot this glaze. I really do love it and want to use this on the outside on my pots. Nepheline Syenite 28.93 Spodumene 22.24 Silica 21.86 Zinc Oxide 14.14 Vansil W-30 Wollastonite 7.07 Soda Ash 4.35 Lithium Carbonate 1.4
  3. The G2926B is actually the clear that I initially tried and it bubbled like crazy. The recipe posted by Bill fared a bit better. Ill try the Wollastonite clear next and see what comes of it. Thanks everyone ! This has been so informative.
  4. This definitely helps ! Thanks for explaining the ‘healed’ shut concept. I looked again and it looks to me like the white and the new clear recipe might be okay. I tried the lemon leach test and nothing changed so thats good too. Ive attached closer pictures here. Would love to hear your thoughts. Im still thinking about getting Aardvark Basaltic because it looks like it might have more options for glaze. Is this the wollastonite clear you mentioned? gertsley borate 21 wollastonite 8 neph sy 30 EPK 10 silica 325 31 total 100
  5. Just wanted to post my results here and see what everyone thinks. The smaller test tiles in the images are the new ones (slow fired bisque to cone 04 and glaze to cone 5) and the bigger ones are my old test tiles with a regular bisque to cone 06. There is only a very small improvement if any. The last test tile is the new recipe I tried posted by @Bill Kielb While it appears to be the best one in terms of microbubbles, it has given a kind of brownish tint. Im not sure if any of these glazes would work for food safety (liner inside mugs). Thoughts?
  6. oh looks like I missed a lot here in a day ! the clay is a deep red in its raw form (with a lot of black settlement when wet which im guessing is the manganese) @Min thank you for calling SPS and getting an answer for me ! too kind. I'll try the slow bisque program on the skutt to cone 04 and see what comes of it. Ill fire with my current glaze after that and see if it fires right. If not, I might buy the one from SPS that they claim works. The kiln is in our studio but we leave the door and windows open when we fire and do it when we aren't around so no one has to breathe the toxic stuff. Thanks everyone for some great advice. Ill fire next week and post my findings here - in case anyone is interested.
  7. @Min I did read that article when you suggested a slow bisque but it requires candling of 12 hours increasing the entire bisque schedule 3x. That’s not something I can afford unfortunately (I rent a kiln from my studio mate) what is your opinion on using a pre programmed slow bisque on a skutt kiln? Or introducing 30 min hold times at 752, 1063 and 1500 F ?
  8. @Bill Kielb do you think a pre programmed slow bisque will suffice? I read in another article to introduce 30 min hold times at three critical temperatures - 752, 1063 and 1500F. What would you suggest?
  9. The kiln I fire in isn’t vented and the bisque load was quite full. I used the pre programmed bisque firing schedule on a skutt to cone 06 on medium speed. I see your point and thank you for explaining that so well. Ill try and find a suitable bisque schedule and maybe also try the new recipe recommended by Bill. Looks like my clear glaze recipe only suits the plainsman body and not much else. Thanks Min !
  10. That’s great. Thanks for sharing Bill ! Ill give the recipe a go and see what happens. Like you said, I might end up having to switch bodies but I will try everything I can before I do.
  11. This is the recipe I use - https://digitalfire.com/recipe/g2926b Sorry Im relatively new to glaze chemistry so Id love your advice on this - do you think increasing the frit might help in this case? My clay goes only upto cone 5 and ive fired this glaze on other clay bodies to cone 5 with no problems.
  12. Unfortunately the canada-usa border is closed so pick up is impossible too. Will just have to wait until this passes i suppose. So heartbreaking to hear the struggle other businesses are facing. my clear glaze is actually a plainsman recipe that uses frit 3124 for boron. Thats the one I tried and it bubbled. ive tried it and it fires a dark brown. Im after a pitch black. I might actually try adding black stain to plainsman coffee to see what happens. Thanks for suggesting it
  13. Hi Bill, ive tried several glazes on test tiles with no luck. The same glazes that work beautifully with other clays. Glazenerd, that’s an interesting suggestion. I dont have access to Imco clays here (vancouver, canada) but I might try a different brown body with stain and see what comes of it. Thank you for suggesting that. Hulk, that is a great suggestion ! SPS carries Aardvark clay so this might be something I could try once Aardvark opens again - i see they’re closed due to covid. Thanks a lot for sharing that.
  14. I fired only to cone 5 as I was told about the bloating above this cone. They list their range cone 04-5 which apparently is the bisque-maturity temperature. In any case I didnt go above cone 5 but still cant seem to get a clean glaze. I just want to know if anyone has with manganese heavy clays. Ive attached the picture again I hope it works this time !
  15. Hope everyone is staying safe in these crazy times. Ive been experimenting with SPS's Midnight Black Clay. I love working with this clay and it fires to an absolutely gorgeous pitch black. The issue Im facing is with using it for functional ware. There is no glaze that is compatible with it ! Everything leaves tiny bubbles on the surface which im guessing can't be good for food safety? I wanted to make mugs from it with a white or transparent liner glaze on the inside. Anyone have any experience working with this clay? PS the attached image is from the internet - but its exactly what my fired results are looking like.
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