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Everything posted by dsw

  1. Thanks Nerd, that is helpful. I had bisqued prior to firing, next time i will downfire, after checking the fit between glaze and clay, but i thought that was OK- i am making my own glazes on some and not others. its a steep learning curve, so thanks for the advice diane
  2. I had a similar problem - One warped - (the diprotodon) and one cracked (kangaroo) - these are in a series of Australian kitchenware Kangaroo plate nearly cracked in half, while others in the fire were ok, except for the one which warped- i had that one on stilts-- yet 6 survived ok. Cone 6 firing. So if i want to do more- should i change my firing schedule (4 Ramps, but no downfire) to lessen the likelihood of happening again? I had glazed both sides for kitchen use, which is why i used stilts- with alumina on the shelves, i assume the glaze will not stick to the shelf at cone 6? diane
  3. sounds like the answer to my problem, but can i mid fire- cone 6 with underglaze base and glaze on the rest of the work, and not have underglaze slide off on to the shelf? no sticking? Diane
  4. I have been given a bisqued porcelain plate to glaze fire - the base has been covered in a commercial underglaze, which i understand is a form of engobe. If that is the case do i need to use stilts on the base, or can i put it straight on the shelf? i am doing a porcelain midfire at cone 6 electric, Diane
  5. I am trying out an American recipe for magic water, which includes soda ash, water and soda silicate. Is soda ash the same thing as bicarb soda i use in the kitchen? perhaps the terminology is different in Australian recipes? diane solomon westerhuis (the Protean Shed)
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