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    Pesaro, Italy

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  1. Hello Marcia, can you please give some details about the firing? I am ready to test the panama red glaze, but it would be helpful to know if it was a strong or light reduction firing, when you started the reduction, for how long, and so on. Many thanks Marcello
  2. thank you, a lot of informations for my tests! About the clay, what is your opinion on how to get a yellow clay after a reduction firing? I get this color only in oxidation, and i get a dark brown in reduction.... thanks Marcello
  3. Thank you Marcia! can I please see also the foot of your nice work? Any additional info about the firing schedule would help. I will certainly try, even if I fire at cone 10. Certainly with a lower temperature the iron bearing clay should come out lighter. I have tested some britt's oxblood at cone 10- Some of them are really good (I am posting an example) but they come colorless where copper hasn't turned red. I am thinking also what would happen adding a little iron in the glaze, How knows if it would effect the reduction? If copper burns away, maybe a little iron would keep the glaze green. It would be a celadon maybe?
  4. in my tests using a iron bearing clay does not produce a green... but a black. the clay also becomes much darker.... Maybe the reduction should be lighter?
  5. Hello, I am testing some oxblood glazes on tea bowls. I am trying to have the red where the bowls are reduced and green where they are oxidized, just like the one i am posting here. In my versions, the areas are not reduced are always transparent/colourless. Do you think it is a problem of chemistry or a firing problem? Looking at the color clay of this bowl, It seems it is fired with a light reduction. Do you agree? If I use an iron-bearing clay, it comes much darker after reduction. many thanks Marcello
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