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  1. Hello dear colleagues, I have a question here about slipcasting technique and mold making process. Some of my work I make with porcelain slip and plaster molds, I have made several different molds to cast porcelain cups. But as I have only one mold of each shape, casting process is slow, I can cast only up to two cups a day from each cup. Do someone of you have an idea, how to make a copy of already existing mold? To make several mold for the same shape? I will be so happy to hear all the suggestions! Thank you! Nata
  2. Thank you all, dear people! I'm not giving up )) but I will also try couple of other recipes to compare Nerd, i understand that about crackle size I can see that on the cups that survived the firing crackle is very fine and nice, as if only on the surface. well, I keep you posting with some new results as soon as I have them thank you so much for your kind support! I wonder if there are any online courses on glaze chemistry I have been reading some articles about how glazes work, but I feel I need help answering all the questions to understand it properly
  3. Hi Nerd, Oh I see, Yes, we have potash feldspar, I will try that, it will take some time, as I need to order that. I will ask for the spec sheet... Do you know what actually makes the crackle glaze work right? I just thought I should try other recipes, not only to depend on this one. I haven't seen nz kaolin here, what makes it so special?
  4. Hi Nerd, Im not sure if I can get the G-200 here in Germany. Our local supplier has only Soda Feldspar, calcium feldspar and some kind of combination of two.... do you think I could try it with one of those?
  5. I actually quite like this yellowish spot that you can see on the plate The plate is unglazed on the outside, interesting that the glaze didn't brake it...
  6. Nerd, So here are first results and unfortunately unsuccessful Glaze still broke the cup, see the pictures. Color changed slightly, it's more blue now, rather then greenish, do you know why? I'm also usually testing glaze for its colour and surface on smaller cups, they actually almost never break when I applied that glazes This time, they didn't too. I also tried it on a small road porcelain plate. Everything's is fine, so it's this cup, naughty cup Would love to hear your opinion. Nata
  7. Hello Joel, Yes, I have tried it on other glazes, it works alright Nerd, Do you think making the cup thicker helps? I tried it, but again, sometimes it works sometimes it breaks I'll show the result of the test today later during the day.
  8. Hello Nerd, No I don't add anything to the powder, as it says it has everything necessary to make a working slip. Should I add? In which proportions? How will it help?
  9. Yes, thank you, I know that But I love the glaze and I want to understand how to make it fit. I think it's possible.
  10. Hello Nerd, The porcelain slip is from Limoges, I buy it as a powder and then mix it by hand in the studio. It's th porcelain they recommend firing up to 1250 and not higher. Yes, I'm bisque firing the cups and they look white, beautiful white Will try the new glaze today look forward to the results I was looking at the cups that survived the firing I wonder why do they have this nice and fine crackle but on those that broke crackle effect is not the same, cracks are big, breaking through, so you can see a crack appearing in the glaze on the interior. I actually realized that the problem is not much in the runny glaze but in this crackle thing..
  11. Nerd, Thank you! I'm loading kiln tomorrow, so soon we will see some results. no, sorry, there is no dolomite in the glaze, I mixed it with another glaze recipe. I actually like this yellowish color, But as always, sometimes cups have it and sometimes they don't. It s a mystery. For now Looking forward to new results. thank you so much
  12. I should admit, I haven't done it My kiln is quite new, several month old, so I didn't think I should make any tests if it works fine
  13. oh! Thank you so much for your time and advice! so, there is some work to be done! you adviced to lower whiting and increasing silica and bentonite (did I understand it right with the alumina?) I'm new to adjusting glazes - what is the best way I do it? if, let's say, I lower whiting to 20 and increase silica for 4 - will the result be seen or should i take bigger steps? but still, do you have any idea why the same glaze is reacting so differently and I wonder if cooling time is also influencing it - as these days it's so hot in the studio that the kiln is cooling slower as usual thank you so much! I go and read now about adjusting glazes
  14. Hi there! so here is the recipe 46.24 neph sy 24.19 whiting 23.12 silica 6.45 zinc ox 5.38 bentonite 0.54 copper carb do you have any ideas? Thank you!
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