Natas Setiabudhi

Thank you, Chris Campbell, High Bridge Pottery, Curt, Oldlady, Glazenerd, Babs, Chilly, Min, Joseph F for the sharing and precious advice.

I just found another one (the picture I attached). Maybe the simple one for making running glaze adding iron oxide more than 10%. But according to my experience, the running is very difficult to control because the melted glaze will risk drop to shelve.

Hi Thank you for replying. Actually, I already have the recipes, but not that style. The glazes I attached is very thick, matt, and looks partial. My own is very fluid and gloss. My assumptions are the glazes must be low in china clay and high active flux like feldspar, whiting, iron oxide and zinc oxide. I wish the others can add the solutions. Thank you

Hi everyone glad to see you again I wanna ask about running glaze. I love ceramic Arhoj from Denmark (I attach his ceramic). Does anyone know how to make such his running glazes? Maybe generally for making that glazes. Best Natas Setiabudhi www.natassetiabudhi.com

Sorry, what difference paper fiber and ceramic fiber? I just heard the term of paper fiber..

Thank you for replying.. Because I've seen in internet, someone making very thin body but hard, maybe 3 millimeter. The size about 70x70cm. But I must make sure if I was mistaken. Thank you for information about hazardous of this material.

Hai every body miss you all I just join again to this forum, maybe over than 1 year. I have something to ask you about ceramic fiber body. I have read that ceramic fiber can be added to clay for making translucency. Is it true? Thank you.....

Thank you Marcia, Evelyne for replying.. I heard In Japanese tradition they use old tea water mix with color. I don't know the application, are they for underglaze or fired glaze. Also they have skill to make sharpen line in their vessel (geometric pattern) Is it the kind of brush or they add something to the color?

Hi everyone Happy new year! nice to see you again. I curious about how to paint over the fired glaze. Are there any tricks to make satisfied results? Especially for painting the vessel (vertical surface). Thank you for your replying..

Actually I intend to invite the international ceramist to my country. We can sharing each other about ceramic world. To invite you of course need someone or institutions to support me, but I don't have those. But I really want to invite you guys. So it's the formal invitation: Kupu keramik Studio / my workshop studio in Bandung Indonesia open to the ceramic artist international to resident in my place for 2 - 4 weeks. No restrictions on age, nationality, and gender. My workshop provide facilities which related to ceramic activity such as materials and work space (free). But for accommodating, meals, and daily life are the artist responsibility. The ceramic category could be anything, as art or function, traditional or contemporary. If you interested you can contact me: - Email: natasetiabudi@yahoo.com - Blog: butterflyceramic.blogspot.com

Halo I think the crackle not just depend on the glazes also the body. Usually the cracks on glazes surfaces come up when cooling (contraction) in the kiln. The cracking process still continue even the pot already out from the kiln. When the glazes and body have same rate in contraction, there are not cracking. on the contrary if the glazes more contract than body it will cracking. As alternative, there is a simple way. The body use high fired (Stoneware clay), meanwhile the glaze use low / middle fired (1000-1100 C). Both fired at low / middle fired (1000-1100 C). The result is the glazes surface will be crackle. Good luck:rolleyes:src="http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif">

The simplest way for making a high fired glaze just mix feldspar, whiting, and quartz. To make glossy you must add more quartz. But you must experiment to get appropriate amount. Because the substances in glaze have interaction each other. So not guarantee if added more quartz will be glossy, depend on amount other oxides. For white color you can add zircon oxide 10-15%. Thank you...

Thanks for replying. I must check to the suplier for what you said. I wish it doesn't contain any harm subtances. Because I have been using talc for many years. And from related institutions do not announche the hazards of this material. Are there any substitutes material for talc which have same characteristic (for body)? My formula body has vitrification point at 1230 celsius. I want to lower until 1200 celsius. Can I add whiting or anything else? Thank you..

Hi everybody I make my own bodies for my ceramic works. The formula is very simple such feldspar, local clay, and china clay (high fired body). Actually the formula has already make me satisfied. But I have read that the body formula can be added talc to lower the vitrified body. Also talc can make the body has a good thermal shocking. I just wanna make sure of that statement. How about whiting? what is the used if added to the body. I really appreciate for any reply. Thank you :rolleyes:src="http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif">

Hello, Yap I'm quite sure that your second piece was overfired. I think your glaze is running, it could be there is zink oxide in your glaze, isn't there? The running / melt away could be depend on the thickness of the glaze. More thicker more running away the glaze. But I think that failure could be interested.. Another cause the wares in position near the flame, usually on the edge of the shelves. You can make the bricks wall on that edge.. Thank you for the attentions..