Jump to content

Deb Evans

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Deb Evans

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Blue Mtn Lake, NY

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I keep telling some home schooled potters that waterfall brown from Mastering ^ 6 Glazes as stated in the book - IS NOT FOOD SAFE. They persist in using it in interiors of fuctional ware. They did ask local clay supplier if it was food safe and he assured them it was. UGGGGGG! How do I get through to these people? Need some suggestions - these folks are the kind of people that cry when you critize their ware, firing methods, etc...
  2. If you decide to use egyption paste ( self glazing clay) be accurate in mixing up and firing. Pots can melt totally!! Realy neat but not what the student expected. It is really neat for small items > jewelry.
  3. For kids clay - make sure that the clay body doesn't have talc especially from New York. Laguna's has low fire white and red bodies, I use to alternate the bodies because I'd get bored w/ the colors. White throws a bit smoother. Have fun.
  4. is that the right place? there's going to be more -there's a lot of clay baby boomers.

  5. As far as I know, soda will degrade fiber. Have used it successfully on the outside of soda kiln for more insulation.
  6. I have one too - built by alfred tech many years ago - cheap-household current-great for tests and small stuff. Just exploring a cheape way to go .........anyone in your region that fires ^6? fellow potters, com college, arts center? then you can figure out where you're going w/o investment.
  7. Just be aware that beeswax has a lower melting temp so adjust your frypan accordingly. you get unhealthy fumes in the kiln either way. Adequete venting is essential.
  8. You can get some nice effects w/ burnished work and using hard wood! enjoy - we're all fire bugs at heart.
  9. if you want to see what's happening to the glaze - soak the test pieces in strong solution of black tea ( 2 bags + 1/2 cup hot water- 24 hrs or so) and voila - the crazed lines will appear! neat for non-fuctional ware but bad fitting glaze to clay is not very healthy for functional work.
  10. Frank and Chris - thanks for the poems! Happy New Year and good firings to all, and to all a good night.
  11. for a raku kiln just use a sawsall to cut burner port, take out the elements and electrical. the hood will crack eventually can replace w/ blanket or silica shelves. weed burner knob isn't eay to do minute adjustments so would be a pain to do long firings but works great for raku.
  12. I added it to raku clay to make some large scale sculpture w/ steel wrapped around. 20% added was perfect, add more and you get soft brick. fine sawdust was easier to deal with , I sieved it. texture was great and glaze/stains sealed the surface. make sure the kiln or kiln area is vented - fumes are a knockout!
  13. I've found that the consistency for brushing most stoneware glazes is that of mcdonald milkshake.
  14. If you don't want to clean them, vacum bag them. the plastic should hold up to the curing process. if you've seen old crocks - the glaze has deterioration. I agree w/ Marcia - don't glaze the weights
  15. your experiments look great! remember that some glazes and stains react to red clay body, looks like it's more stable w/ the gray stoneware. happy holidays.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.