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Deb Evans

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Everything posted by Deb Evans

  1. I keep telling some home schooled potters that waterfall brown from Mastering ^ 6 Glazes as stated in the book - IS NOT FOOD SAFE. They persist in using it in interiors of fuctional ware. They did ask local clay supplier if it was food safe and he assured them it was. UGGGGGG! How do I get through to these people? Need some suggestions - these folks are the kind of people that cry when you critize their ware, firing methods, etc...
  2. If you decide to use egyption paste ( self glazing clay) be accurate in mixing up and firing. Pots can melt totally!! Realy neat but not what the student expected. It is really neat for small items > jewelry.
  3. For kids clay - make sure that the clay body doesn't have talc especially from New York. Laguna's has low fire white and red bodies, I use to alternate the bodies because I'd get bored w/ the colors. White throws a bit smoother. Have fun.
  4. is that the right place? there's going to be more -there's a lot of clay baby boomers.

  5. As far as I know, soda will degrade fiber. Have used it successfully on the outside of soda kiln for more insulation.
  6. I have one too - built by alfred tech many years ago - cheap-household current-great for tests and small stuff. Just exploring a cheape way to go .........anyone in your region that fires ^6? fellow potters, com college, arts center? then you can figure out where you're going w/o investment.
  7. Just be aware that beeswax has a lower melting temp so adjust your frypan accordingly. you get unhealthy fumes in the kiln either way. Adequete venting is essential.
  8. You can get some nice effects w/ burnished work and using hard wood! enjoy - we're all fire bugs at heart.
  9. if you want to see what's happening to the glaze - soak the test pieces in strong solution of black tea ( 2 bags + 1/2 cup hot water- 24 hrs or so) and voila - the crazed lines will appear! neat for non-fuctional ware but bad fitting glaze to clay is not very healthy for functional work.
  10. Frank and Chris - thanks for the poems! Happy New Year and good firings to all, and to all a good night.
  11. for a raku kiln just use a sawsall to cut burner port, take out the elements and electrical. the hood will crack eventually can replace w/ blanket or silica shelves. weed burner knob isn't eay to do minute adjustments so would be a pain to do long firings but works great for raku.
  12. I added it to raku clay to make some large scale sculpture w/ steel wrapped around. 20% added was perfect, add more and you get soft brick. fine sawdust was easier to deal with , I sieved it. texture was great and glaze/stains sealed the surface. make sure the kiln or kiln area is vented - fumes are a knockout!
  13. I've found that the consistency for brushing most stoneware glazes is that of mcdonald milkshake.
  14. If you don't want to clean them, vacum bag them. the plastic should hold up to the curing process. if you've seen old crocks - the glaze has deterioration. I agree w/ Marcia - don't glaze the weights
  15. your experiments look great! remember that some glazes and stains react to red clay body, looks like it's more stable w/ the gray stoneware. happy holidays.
  16. is the epoxy toxic after it sets ? or just in application?just curiouse. if its only in application you should take appropriate procausions and go for it. would a wax produck work? there are a lot of waxs that are very durable like scupture wax. seems like cement is not going to like sporatic heating. good luck!
  17. Nice work! love the paperness of the pieces! Peace on earth and happy holidays.
  18. it's the spy hole guess they don't send a plug for it - you can plug it w/ some fiberfrax or carve a bit of soft brick if you want. seems the manufacturer doesn't fell you need a plu so fire i up and see how fast it fires. enjoy new kiln - looks like it's a sweet one! clayfully, Deb
  19. You mentioned it's outside w/ a roof- weather (wind, humidity) is a variable so try to enclose it - should reduce the variation a bit. good luck.
  20. Evenif you go the art route in college - take buseness courses- it's important to know and eaasier to get started. I've been advocating buseness of art classes for years - why reinvent the wheel as they say! enjoy whatever choices you make and you'll come back to clay what ever you decide.
  21. Before computer controls, once the kiln shut off, wait 15 min, to wedge the catch w/ a used cone and push in the button for 10 min, undo for 20 mins and repeat a couple of times. the more the glazes can soak and ramp down - wahooo. do not leave kiln unattended!!
  22. for hydrated ferric oxide: 1 jar some water add steel nails let them rust for a while . hardest thing now a days is finding true steel nails! enjoy.........
  23. If you go for a satin glaze and just want a surface - thin the stuff down a lot so that it just gives a white veil to the stains -
  24. You mentioned that the kiln is outside w/ a roof. air/wind is a variable and if you could put walls up ( tin roofing or plywood, whatever) the kiln will fire more evenly.
  25. just to throw this idea out there. I use to trim by hand and sometimes was just faster than setting up trimming on the wheel. just would sit down and carve w/knife, lightly sponge texture away at the end.
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