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bciskepottery

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Everything posted by bciskepottery

  1. Here are the answers to the Pkqw #23 . . . Answers: 3. sodium silicate_To achieve deep surface texture without the use of additives, brush sodium silicate (a suspension agent usually used in casting slip) onto the surface of a thickly thrown cylinder. Once the clay stiffens, stretch the form from the inside to bring out surface cracks. 2. fluted, faceted-After you’ve fluted or faceted a freshly thrown form, you can stretch the curves more by continuing to throw, while pressing outward only from the inside. 1. engraving-From the mid-1700's the printmaker's technique of engraving was used to create detailed images on ceramic wares. Engraved onto a copper plate, coated with potter's ink, and printed onto a prepared tissue, the image was then gently transferred to the clay surface by pressing across the back of the tissue. Thin, clear glaze was applied over the top. While blue was the most common color produced, the work could also be brown, green or yellow depending on the temperature to which the piece was fired. 2. comb, parallel-With little more than a comb a potter from the most sophisticated – or the most primitive -culture can embellish a piece with parallel lines. If you get the chance, take a look at Karatsu wares from seventeenth-century Japan. New question to be posted tomorrow . . .
  2. Click on your user name Then click on "Account Settings" Then click on "Notification Settings" I cleared all defaults and clicked on "no notifications" option Then click on Save button before returning to forum. Hopefully that would do it.
  3. Nerd -- what is the magnification of your picture? Helps with context.
  4. The Vent A Kiln hood, which sits over the kiln, is designed to remove fumes, odors, and excess heat. Basically, like the hood over a range vents odors and smoke out of the kitchen. A downdraft vent that is attached to the bottom of the kiln draws oxygen from the top through the kiln, along with removing fumes, odors, and heat.
  5. Upper right hand side, under the blue/teal bar is a tab that reads "Unread content". Click and go. You can also go to the Activity tab, click, then select the unread content tab.
  6. Regular bisque temp for calcining should be fine. The purpose of calcining is to remove chemical water; by doing that, it will shrink less upon drying.
  7. Unless you apply alumina to the rims, they are likely to stick during a glaze firing (unlike a lower temp bisque firing). Understand the desire to maximize kiln space, but work with what you have and focus on quality, not quantity. Cost of electric firing is not that much in terms of overall price of an item. May be a few pennies more per piece now, but you'll make it up later with larger kiln. Think long term, pottery/ceramics is not for those who tend toward instant gratification. But you already knew that -- as evidenced by your journey so far and your work to achieve your own voice in glazes, etc.
  8. Ditto to Neil's comments on being careful during loading . . . I've encountered that too often at community studios where the loader was not careful. Also, make sure there is no kiln wash on the edges of your shelves that can easily chip and fall onto pottery.
  9. A friend used bisque ware for breakable items in a theater production. I understand in some countries, small shot-size bisqued cups are used in place of disposable plastic, etc. by some street vendors -- drink the tea and then smash the cup on the ground back into clay.
  10. Can you provide the glaze recipe? That would help determine if any materials could have changed. Most materials are not affected by time, etc. Others can be.
  11. Here is a video of his son Seth demonstrating brushwork.
  12. clc_flashing_slips.pdf Not all kaolins are the same . . . each carries various other minerals in them besides the primary mineral of kaolin. So, depending on the "impurities" contained, along with other slip additions, each will produce different effects in the wood kiln. The effects also depend on the type of wood being burned -- in addition to heating the kiln, your wood will determine the ash that moves through the kiln. How they react will also depend on the clay body being used -- stoneware vs porcelain. You really didn't think this would be easy, did you?
  13. I want to recall either Robin Hopper or Bill Van Gilder commenting that their production rates for plates while apprenticing was 12 per hour. If their interest is in a unique decoration for the surface, then it would appear this would be a good time to pull out that old jigger/jolley from the corner, dust it off, and put it to work.
  14. I'll go with, "Don't worry, it will probably be fine." for $400. As always, no guarantees, but small, flat pendant pieces should be fine.
  15. Can we assume you will test each cup to make sure they work properly?
  16. One of the key features I would suggest is multiple zone control. Some kilns have just one thermocouple which can result in a kiln heating unevenly. With one zone, they often tune elements to help compensate for the difference -- as David explains. A three-zone kiln uses three thermocouples, which allows for more even heat from top to bottom. Another key feature is a digital control. Finally, go for 3" bricks (or its equivalent) for better energy use and rate of cooling control. My kiln is an L&L. I learned to fire using L&Ls at a community studio. Some studio members had personal kilns, several being Skutt. When it was time to buy, I looked at classified ads to see what was out there and found the used market dominated by Skutt, Olympia and other brands . . . but very few L&Ls. That told me folks who bought an L&L, kept them.
  17. Lead has a low melting point, so it was easily used in low fire/earthenware glazes.
  18. These links have recipe for Black Friday (cone 6 oxidation), plus a couple cone 10 ash glazes. http://www.potters.org/subject107665.htm https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/claycraft/p_3dcUEyoto
  19. I believe Cassius has high Sulphur content and outgases . . . generally best fired at cone 5, bloats at cone 6. You likely need to bisque fire Cassius higher to rid it of the Sulphur, etc. The Sulphur outgassing may be the cause of the pin holing in other glazes.
  20. http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/15892-plates-slump-hump/?hl=%2Bbisque+%2Bmolds&do=findComment&comment=123338 When searching, go to the main forum page and search; your search will go across all of the forums. If you search within a forum (not main forum page), your search will be limited to only that forum.
  21. don't discount that the composition of your porcelain has changed . . . in fact, if you are using the same glaze ingredients from 10 years ago, then the variable is your clay, which has likely undergone changes in materials.
  22. An 11Wx11Lx10H room is 1210 cu.ft. Bathroom exhaust fans are typically rated in Cubic Feet/Minute (CFM). A low end bathroom exhaust fan (70 CFM) would require 17 1/2 minutes to exhaust all the air -- or just over 3 times per hour. Others are rated 100 CFM to 120 CFM. But an exhaust fan is one way; not only do you need to remove the hot air, but you need to draw in cooler/fresh air.
  23. How far is each from your electrical panel . . . you will have to run an electrical line for the kiln and, depending on size of your electrical panel, add a subpanel for the kiln. Think about weather protection . . . how to protect the kiln from rain and/or snow/ice. As Lee noted, you can put hardiboard or even a layer of bricks/cement blocks on the wood deck to provide an adequate barrier against heat. Use a kiln stand to allow circulation under the kiln.
  24. I've only used it on bisque; fired to cone 6. About 1/4 cup soda ash in 1 cup of hot water (hot enough to dissolve soda ash). I apply with a sponge.
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