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About Claypple

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday September 14

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  • Location
    Reno, NV
  1. I am using MS-95. On the vase I showed it is in the very center over Speckled Buff clay and it looks like a deep water of Tahoe. It is interesting what you said. I will try it over the white glaze now. I, too, wish there were a way to find out what are the ingredients in the commercial glazes. Some of them are very unique and beautiful.
  2. Laguna "Desert Sand" and "Peacock" Duncan "Sephia Brown" Coat&Stroke "Java Bean" and "Blue Grass" Coyote "Red Gold" No overlaying.
  3. I am left-handed. I throw counter-clockwise. As I have said before, this one of the few areas where being left-handed is an advantage. The left hand is the forming hand-e.g. the inside of bowls. Sometimes I trim pots right-handed, but mainly, I do everything left-handed. You would be surprised as to how many artists/musicians are lefties. It's a brain thing. TJR. Lindajb, this is how your theory completely fails! All the righty has to do when throwing clockwise, push with the dominant hand and let the clay slip between your left hand. If the left handed potter feels more comfortable with
  4. This is true, but only true while you are throwing. When you are trimming, it is easier for right handed to do it clockwise. At least it is easier for me and makes more sense. Even the lighting makes more sense if you trim on the left side of the wheel. .... Chris Campbell recently suggested a new topic: "the most outrageous, false pottery rule you ever heard". I think the trimming on the counter-clockwise wheel fits under that category. Nicoletta, if that teacher cannot help you, leave her! You cannot change yourself. She should be able to take a little effort and reverse the image in he
  5. Make your life easier and just use a rubber glove. Any thin rubber glove. Do not put it on, just wet it with the water, hold it with 2 hands and use like you would use the chamois on the rib of your vessel. It is cheaper and leaves a much smoother surface than anything else.
  6. Thank you for sharing this information! Looks like the colors are almost always darker than in the Amaco's ads. I do not think it is the clay, as I used these glazes with the different clays, and the result was still the same. I finally found the right thickness, but it took a while. Thinning the top coat will only make it muddy darker. Keep trying different combinations. I started another thread where I suggested to share positive information about using the different commercial glazes, so maybe some day you could find a good info there. It's called "Commercial glazes: good experience."
  7. Here is some layering: Coyote Croc Blue MBG 009 over Coyote Red MBG 019. Next time I will make a much wider overlap.
  8. Would anybody be interested in sharing success / good experience with the commercial glazes? I have a lot of them; mostly Coyote, Potters Choice, Amaco, Laguna. It takes a lot of experimental firings to find out when they look the best. I do realize that it also depends on the type of the clay we use, the firing schedule, etc., but there are definitely some things we could share with each other so we would not "discover America" with every new glaze we use. As an example and as the first person to share: This is Coyote Butterscotch Shino MBG086 ^6 It looks the best on a rough surface
  9. Love this combo. What is on top? And is it layered over the Ancient Jasper? Blue Rutile at the top (4 thick coats) Ancient Jasper at the bottom. No layering. Maybe just a little bit where these two meet each other, but I do not see the effect of that at all.
  10. Thank you for all your help! Especially Jo-Ann. This is what I've got so far: Now I have to learn how to apply Antique Jasper unevenly (manufactory's recommendation)
  11. Just got another tile samples out of the kin: Yep, that was the application! I had one tile with 3 coats on and then dipped twice, and it finally looks better than the previous attepmts. It definitely requires REAL thick application. Thank you for your help everybody!
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