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Brian Reed

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About Brian Reed

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    Washington State

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  1. I fire with Propane in a medium size downdraft. My kiln is a 36cuft downdraft with 4 75,000 BTU venture burners. I use two 250gallon tanks in tandem to fire and I have never had a problem. Rather than measure everything I talked to my propane provider and the dual 250's were best because of local regulations about tanks over 250. As it turns out I get about 5 firings before the tanks are at 30% when I call to get them refilled. I found out the hard way that if I try and fire with less than 30% the vaporization cooling is too intense and freezes too quickly. Prior to this I had a small 8.5cuft Torchbearer type kiln with 4 venture burners. I used two 100lb tanks in tandem. (I do not remember the gallons, but they were the tall skinny tanks). The consumption of propane was fine with those however I would always freeze the tanks up on the last firing, I think it was the 4th. Which I got into trouble a few times having to pour water over the tanks to warm them up. I hated firing that kiln and so glad it is gone.
  2. I have had the same discussion with my clay club up here is Washington. We concluded that the question is about how porous your work is when it is completed. If fully vitrified and non-porous (so some extent all ceramic is porous) the better it will survive freezing temps. It all has to do with the moisture that is trapped in the ceramic. When ice is formed in these areas it will crack the ceramic. Not sure testing in a freezer would work, because it needs all the environment variables present in something outdoors.
  3. I can usualy get the wax off by scraping with the edge of a metal rib, you know the one that come in every beginner kit. Make sure you scrape deep enough to get all the wax which will mean you are digging some of teh clay body away as well. I have never burnt it off, but I am sure that is a good route as well, just costs for time and $$.
  4. What about potters from generations past that have not signed their pots in any way. I understand Warren McKenzie does not sign his pots. Does this make it any less desirable? I am not sure. I choose to stamp my work, with a stamp I made myself. It fits well within my aesthetic and it has never been a question. When I am gone, or even while I am still here, I am not sure it matters that people know who made my pot. They like it or not, they choose to use it or display it, or even toss it out....
  5. I make my stamps out of porcelain that I carve myself and bisque fire. Works well.
  6. I would start with a standard Leach 4321 glaze. 4000 - Feldspar ( I use Custer) 3000 - Silica 2000- Calcium Carbonate 1000- EPK For my white I use 5% Zircopax and 2% Bentonite.
  7. I have some dug dark brown clay that is locally dug, I have done some tests, but ultimately decided to made slip from it and I use it straight out of the ground. I make a thin slurry and run it through an 80 mesh sieve and there you go. A wonderful slip iron rich and very local. I do nothing, but add water.
  8. I have been searching all over for a source for the large flip top bottles. Unfortunately I have found 4, but the cheapest that I have found is about $10 per lid. The absolution cheapest price was $9.23, but they have a S&H charge of $5! If anyone finds a source for the large swig top lids in Ceramic let me know.
  9. I have an old Shimpo RK2 in my studio as well. Because it has the hand lever I put it up on a crate so that people could use it to throw standing. Some students prefer that. I have thrown on it, however I rarely use it. The motor is pretty quiet, and I replaced the friction rubber ring so it runs very well.
  10. My recipe is easy for cone 10 clay. 1 6 gal bucket of slop 1/2 bag of Lincoln Fire 60 3-4 large scoops of Lane 70 mesh sand 1 large scoop 35 mesh Grog Then sometimes I add some granulated Magnatite when I want that spotted stoneware look. Yields about $150lbs of clay in the walker. then I let it "sour" for at least a week and hand wedge.
  11. I throw my flower pots with the saucer attached to the bottom. I just throw a trough at the bottom that would hold the water draining through a hole that I poke out the side of the flower pot, which drains into the trough. Proven design that many people make, and it works good. No sizing, no trimming, and no attaching of a saucer.
  12. Welcome Andreza, and Brian. Brian, my name is Brian also and I live in Everett as well. PM me and perhaps I can plug you into the local pottery scene. I have a open studio night each Tuesday.
  13. Yes the one in Portland looks be in amazing shape, better than mine for sure.
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